Set up problems, powered sub the solution?
Well I just bought a 12” Pioneer Sub (TS-W202R), some component speakers (Rockford R152-S 5.25”) and a Kenwood Amp (KAC-1502S).
The Receiver is a Pioneer DEH-33HD.
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Now that I have the stuff, I’m thinking I screwed up. The goal is to replace the blows system with something more on par with my old Mustang Mach sound system or my G/F’s RX300’s. I am unwilling to give up trunk space for a Sub enclosure and it would appear that the factory Sub-Spot is inadequate.
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So my latest thinking is stick with the Rockford speakers and return the Amp and Sub. I would then get a self-contained powered sub and install that in the factory location. Factory location would get some Dynamat to avoid the rattles.
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Is this a good or bad idea?
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Amazon has –
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Infinity Basslink 200w for $180
Pyle PLTA10N 10” for $98
MTX RT8PT 8” for $140
Bazooka BTA6100 BT 6” for $150.
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The Receiver is a Pioneer DEH-33HD.
*
Now that I have the stuff, I’m thinking I screwed up. The goal is to replace the blows system with something more on par with my old Mustang Mach sound system or my G/F’s RX300’s. I am unwilling to give up trunk space for a Sub enclosure and it would appear that the factory Sub-Spot is inadequate.
*
So my latest thinking is stick with the Rockford speakers and return the Amp and Sub. I would then get a self-contained powered sub and install that in the factory location. Factory location would get some Dynamat to avoid the rattles.
*
Is this a good or bad idea?
*
Amazon has –
*
Infinity Basslink 200w for $180
Pyle PLTA10N 10” for $98
MTX RT8PT 8” for $140
Bazooka BTA6100 BT 6” for $150.
*
*
if you use the factory location you'll need a 10" sub that is free air. if you dont get a free air sub you'll need a box! check out CAS for the glove box sub box or check out e-bay for MDF style box. stay away from amazon unless you know what your looking for i suggest sonic electronicx or chrutchfield. if you have questions they have expieranced tech's that can answer any questions. i have a jl 10w3v2-4 in an e-bay MDF box in stock location being pushed by a PPI pc2300 chrome amp. match your amp RMS with your sub RMS. and just because it says 1000w doesnt mean it really puts that out!
With your requirements I would keep the Bose sub and not waste any more money. You have a quality sound system already in the car, just replace head unit and door speakers. Or You can always install the amp in the factory Bose location and install the sub so it can be removed when you want to put stuff in your trunk. It's only one really light sub it will only take up 1 cubic foot of your trunk. You could put it before the strut bar and get rid of most of the headaches of installing in cramped quarters.
I guarantee if you put this sub and amp combo in your car you will turn it up till it blows, get a sub with more rms then the amp and you will have no worries.
Your sub is only listed at 50-150 rms
I guarantee if you put this sub and amp combo in your car you will turn it up till it blows, get a sub with more rms then the amp and you will have no worries.
Your sub is only listed at 50-150 rms
Last edited by realist alive; Mar 21, 2012 at 08:18 AM.
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Mobil...TSW303R&tp=111
I see what you are saying, expessially about it only being 1ft. I'll take a look when I get home. But where are you seeing the Sub is only 150 RMS? Every site lists it as 250, am I reading the specs wrong? Do you mean the AMP I have is to small (150 RMS Bridged).
I see what you are saying, expessially about it only being 1ft. I'll take a look when I get home. But where are you seeing the Sub is only 150 RMS? Every site lists it as 250, am I reading the specs wrong? Do you mean the AMP I have is to small (150 RMS Bridged).
The advantage of a powered woofer is that it is not stealing power from the amplifier, making that power available to the other speakers.
The disadvantage of a powered woofer is gain and overall balance. The powered woofer may have an input or output gain adjustment, but at different volume levels it will sound different effecting overall system balance.
NOTE: I am sure you know that the input for a powered woofer is a line level signal from the pre-amplifier.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xqfqhTU...-TS-W302R.html
I could not find the exact one you were talking about but when i googled it this came up. thats where i got the number from. If yours is really what you say it is i am wrong.
I like to have at least a sub that is 50 RMS more than my amp.this way when you get used to the base and start playing with your amp you will never blow the sub. low watt amps rarely overheat and usually turn off and go into protect mode, subs just blow and its over. thats why i like the sub to be more powerful then amp.
i added some pics this is my set up. it is a 200 RMS Kicker amp, 2 150 RMS each Kicker Comps. i have almost my full trunk avaliable and with the subs there it acts as a nice display of the speakers. my box size is 2 cubic feet, yours only needs to be half that, and with a quick disconnect on the box you could remove it quickly and still have the amp out of the way.
I could not find the exact one you were talking about but when i googled it this came up. thats where i got the number from. If yours is really what you say it is i am wrong.
I like to have at least a sub that is 50 RMS more than my amp.this way when you get used to the base and start playing with your amp you will never blow the sub. low watt amps rarely overheat and usually turn off and go into protect mode, subs just blow and its over. thats why i like the sub to be more powerful then amp.
i added some pics this is my set up. it is a 200 RMS Kicker amp, 2 150 RMS each Kicker Comps. i have almost my full trunk avaliable and with the subs there it acts as a nice display of the speakers. my box size is 2 cubic feet, yours only needs to be half that, and with a quick disconnect on the box you could remove it quickly and still have the amp out of the way.
Last edited by realist alive; Mar 21, 2012 at 01:07 PM.
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Don't see why it would be a bad idea.
The advantage of a powered woofer is that it is not stealing power from the amplifier, making that power available to the other speakers.
The disadvantage of a powered woofer is gain and overall balance. The powered woofer may have an input or output gain adjustment, but at different volume levels it will sound different effecting overall system balance.
NOTE: I am sure you know that the input for a powered woofer is a line level signal from the pre-amplifier.
The advantage of a powered woofer is that it is not stealing power from the amplifier, making that power available to the other speakers.
The disadvantage of a powered woofer is gain and overall balance. The powered woofer may have an input or output gain adjustment, but at different volume levels it will sound different effecting overall system balance.
NOTE: I am sure you know that the input for a powered woofer is a line level signal from the pre-amplifier.
1.)what song is being played and quality of the song
2.)what size and shape of box
3.)quality of wires, amp, and sub
4.)the distortion from crossing wires
5.)how your amp and head unit is tuned to your listening preferences.
There are many other factors but any sound system will respond differently at different volume levels. its all about personal preference.
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