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Old 08-08-2012, 11:50 AM
  #21  
Caddhelp
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Originally Posted by 05nsn350z6
go with the 4 never hurts to be safe... and for what you are looking for you wont need a 1, also are you referring to length as in how much wire will you ned to run from the batt. to fuze. to (cut off) to amp?
Yea, I am looking for a kit or something that would have all the cables I will need (right length, types, clips, fuses, etc.)
Old 08-08-2012, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Caddhelp
Yea, I am looking for a kit or something that would have all the cables I will need (right length, types, clips, fuses, etc.)
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_711/Sin...ts.html?tp=635

Love this site
Old 08-09-2012, 04:28 AM
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Amazon Amazon
Crutchfield has for $115, Amazon for $65.

But is it a decent choice?

Last edited by Caddhelp; 08-09-2012 at 04:29 AM. Reason: fixed link.
Old 08-09-2012, 04:30 AM
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And it looks like the fuse block may be weak, and I don't see a battery terminal block. Any leads on those?
Old 08-09-2012, 02:29 PM
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05nsn350z6
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The one you found on Amazon looks good, the fuze box is just going to be held down somewhere, they don't take much abuse. and for power you just put the connector on the bolt that holds your batt. terminal tight.
Old 08-09-2012, 03:53 PM
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thanks for the reply.

regarding the RCA - how long do I need? I was thinking just 2m and the cables run straight back from the HU to glove box. But I spoke to an installer and he said they run RCA on a 350 down the passenger side (power on driver) so that would mean 3m or longer to be safe. I just don't want to have gobs of cable coiled up by the amp.
Old 08-09-2012, 04:28 PM
  #27  
sheamus86
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Originally Posted by Caddhelp
But I spoke to an installer and he said they run RCA on a 350 down the passenger side (power on driver) so that would mean 3m or longer to be safe. I just don't want to have gobs of cable coiled up by the amp.
The reason they do this is so that the RCA's don't get interference from the power cable...the further away the better
Old 08-10-2012, 01:10 AM
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+1 3 m. Will be fine
Old 08-10-2012, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by 05nsn350z6
+1 3 m. Will be fine
cool. thanks!
Old 08-10-2012, 11:44 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dcains
Well, any speaker cabinet should be as acoustically "dead" as possible, because you want to hear the driver, not the box. Whether or not the FatMat helps, I couldn't say, but if you rap your knuckles on the box, it's as dead as a block of concrete. The box is also filled with about 1 pound of polyfill. IIRC, the ideal box volume for my driver was 0.7 cubic feet, but the box is only ~0.64, so the polyfill effectively increases the internal volume a bit.

I really like this box design. What are the dimensions? .64 is very close to the 10W3V3 specs (.625).
Old 08-10-2012, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael0974
I really like this box design. What are the dimensions? .64 is very close to the 10W3V3 specs (.625).
The box build looks great , but I would of sound deadened the inside and covered the outside with black Vinyl or carpet . And A ratchet strap isn't the best way to mount it . But most people nowdays have the (nobody's going to see it) mentallity .
Old 08-13-2012, 06:04 AM
  #32  
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So yesterday I ran the amp power wire (dodging the rain). I think it went rather well (for all the worry anyway). I will crack it open and take a few pics. Basically ran about 8" from the right battery terminal, towards the front with the fuse just in front of the existing fuse box. Then looped to the right side cowl location and cut a round hole at the top of the electrical pass through grommet. It slide through easy, has a tight fit and elevated for water. Then put some silicone caulk (white unfortunately) around the hole in the grommet.

This week the HU comes in and I can move inside the car.
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