Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

It's been a few months since I got my 08 Enthusiast. All I've managed to do so far is tint the windows really nice and destroy the rear speakers.

The later I think where already bad off when I got the Z. I've confirmed the speakers are still under warranty, I'm tempted to get them fixed *prior* to getting some decent speakers (or perhaps unplug according to other threads).

Anyway, so I'm trying to figure out the best placement for the subwoofers. I am leaning towards a pair of 8" JL Audio because I prefer punch to vibrations. But that begs the question, where?

Will rear facing negate the punch? Should I face them forward to get the punch?

If so, then where to put them? I've seen some back corner boxes from Wicked but damn very expensive. I've seen another member create pod boxes that go between the seat back and strut bar. Very custom, not available in after markets as far as I can tell.

Originally I was leaning towards the under strut box, but that eats up a lot of floor space. I wanted a big box to place the amp (JL Audio 500/5) but have seen some use the stock sub space (in my case no sub - just metal frame).

Any feedback and suggestions appreciated. I spend a ton of time pondering what to do before I do anything.

assad112000

This is my setup. 1 12" Infinity sub in a angled box behind the bar. Hits extremely hard and still have tons of space

CannMann21

Just throw a 10inch in a box behind the the drivers seat. I have a 10 inch exactly where the bose sub was, facing the same, it sounds alright. There is some vibrations on some songs, but I dont play music loud anymore. Then I have 2 amps (one for speakers, one for sub) in the glove department behind passenger seat. Looks much cleaner this way, with everything out of sight.

If you want the best sound, most people will say a box in the trunk sounds best.

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

That setup looks good and provides a bit of floor space. I am concerned though with (2) 8" rear facing, that I may have an issue with volume loss due to the longer sound wave.

Thanks!

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

I guess in terms of ease of install that would be the easiest. I don't have a 10" sub at the moment, once bought it would commit me to that size (as opposed to (2) 8". What can you do to the air space to reduce "tinning" sound?

I have seen metal mounting frame. Does the stock install simply cut a hole in the plastic cover or is there another MFR plastic cover with a grill?

Also, do you know if the wiring has been factory placed from HE to this location? Not that I wouldn't want to replace all the wiring anyway, just curious.

TURBOROADSTER

iTrader: (4)

If you want the best Looks and sound , just get an under strut bar box and be done with it .

dcains

iTrader: (15)

I wanted an OEM look, with no loss of cabin space:


A well-constructed box, with the correct internal volume, makes all the difference.


Box fits inside the open space behind the seat, and uses the OEM Bose grille (dampened on its inside surface with FatMat). No vibrations at any volume.


Single-channel sub amp on top, 4-channel main amp under the glove compartment.

This system will never win any loudness contest, but the quality is very nice, tight, and well-controlled. Front end is a Kenwood, full-range speakers are Boston's.

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

Is that a MDF box? with a 10? or 12? Are you happy with the seat feel? Too much or too little vibrations?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

3/4" MDF, held together with lots of screws, internal braces, all seams caulked, 10" sub. For my tastes, the bass is just right. It's a sealed box, so it's tight and not boomy. No rattles or non-musical vibrations. I don't believe you need a pair of 12" subs or 1000w with a sub in this location, as you're not having to fill the entire trunk with sound, and there is less chance of standing waves that can occur with rear-firing subs in the trunk. If you're looking to rattle the hatch or rear-view mirror, this isn't the system for that.

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

I'm curious, I've never seen anyone cover the enclosure in sound deadening material. Certainly the surrounding space such as the metal, but not the box itself. Do you have info that helps? Also, is the inside of the box just air or did you fill it with poly?

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Well, any speaker cabinet should be as acoustically "dead" as possible, because you want to hear the driver, not the box. Whether or not the FatMat helps, I couldn't say, but if you rap your knuckles on the box, it's as dead as a block of concrete. The box is also filled with about 1 pound of polyfill. IIRC, the ideal box volume for my driver was 0.7 cubic feet, but the box is only ~0.64, so the polyfill effectively increases the internal volume a bit.

05nsn350z6

iTrader: (10)

Dcanis, I like your set up. But I'm curious when you add material to an enclosed space how does it increase the volume?
You are going to have less air space than what you started with. In in college, well trade school, I took Automotive Performance Audio and I've never heard of this.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Here's an article you can take a look at:

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/f...g-of-polyfill/

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,

Well I've been trying different solutions mentally this weekend. For one my JL Audio 500/5 amp is damn wide. It is too wide for the glovebox (in the cubby) so that means where the stock stub goes (mounted on a MDF board). I really don't want the AMP showing anywhere (and I want my spare tire).

That means the sub is in the back, somewhere.

My preferred location is a inside corner (http://www.*********.com/wiki/index....le=Woofer_Pods) but I would have to make it. I'm not beyond trying but it does slow down my schedule quite a bit.

Next option is Zenclousure-like (http://www.zenclosures.com/Nissan-35...Box-p/z110.htm) and this I would make - not buy.

I am migrating away from 2-8" and moving to a single 10". I feel I get enough mid-range and punch from the front/rear speakers anyway. Once I go to the 10" I can get away with pointing the sub any direction I wish.

I tested my golf bag in the car, it doesn't fit under the strut bar anyway, so under the strut seems like a good placement. I do have to take out some long clubs to fit in the back at all.

And lastly, I want the sub removable (for weekend trips with full luggage) and therefore the amp cannot be attached to the box.

Now for the head unit...

Pioneer AVH-P3400BH
or
JVC KW-HDR81BT

dcains

iTrader: (15)

You might want to pop out the glove box to see if your amp will fit underneath. At the moment I can't recall which 4-channel JL amp I have, but that's where I mounted mine. I'm sure the 5-channel is larger, but it's worth a try. Neither of my amps even gets warm to the touch being enclosed, so that wasn't an issue for me. For reference, my sub box is 18" wide, and the enclosed space behind the seats is the same on both sides of the car.

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

Ah.. interesting solution. It probably would, seems like a lot of space is not used by the glove box. It might be tough getting a flat mount but considering it would be a tighter space it probably should be on spacers to have air beneath the amp as well.

As for cooling, I wonder if anyone has ever tried to run a small tube (clear aquarium type) from an A/C vent up front to the back where a amp might be. Being in Florida, a car gets pretty warm in the summer. Might be an easy/cheap solution to cool it.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

The JL amps don't seem to run hot at all, and I'm in FL, too.

05nsn350z6

iTrader: (10)

Dcains, good article. learn something new everyday. I understood the difference is sound quality but not the Air density piece..... now it makes me laugh thinking about people I saw in High school putting multiple old T Shirts in their enclosure.

Caddhelp, Have you thought of putting the amp inside the Bose sub area?

Caddhelp

iTrader: (1)

I have and that is my preference, but only if it fits. With the discussion on a sub box in the stock sub area, that will not fit the amp. But as has been pointed out I can probably fit it under the glove box cubby. To save on space it may be worth the effort to build a box for the stock location and see how it performs before go for the rear strut location.

Last night I ordered a JVC DVD head unit, kit and cables, as well as the sub (Boston) 10". I had been looking towards a pair of 8" subs, but just about no one is doing that (that means something I'm sure). With the single sub I have the stock location, sub box in stock location, or rear sub enclosure, as options going forward. I have tons of MDF to play with as well.

So my next tech issue is sorting the electrical while the equipment is being shipped. Anyone know how long 1/4/8 (which?) gauge cable for the AMP power?

05nsn350z6

iTrader: (10)

go with the 4 never hurts to be safe... and for what you are looking for you wont need a 1, also are you referring to length as in how much wire will you ned to run from the batt. to fuze. to (cut off) to amp?