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Upgrading Sound System - advice needed

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Old 12-24-2012, 06:53 PM
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jonias
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Question Upgrading Sound System - advice needed

Hi all, my first post here. I've just purchased an '06 Z (base) and I need to get my sound up.

Just to give an idea of my technical abilities; I've always installed my own HU and speakers, but have never really done much in lieu of custom amp and subs. I've purchased all-in-one amp/sub 'kits' for my Jeep where I just bolt it in and run a cable to the battery etc. but never anything like I'm about to.

So far, I've replaced the rear speakers with some $60 300w Pioneers from BestBuy. I plan to do the same for the front. My next step is to buy a Zenclosure with 10" cutouts.


So here's my question(s) for anyone with experience with this stuff:

Do you recommend one or two 10's?
I like it loud and listen to everything from classical to heavy metal. I'm nearly 40 years old so I'm not looking to make my hair stand up - just good listening bass. Any specific brand to get the most boom for the buck?

Do you recommend running an amp to my internal speakers as well as the sub? I saw somewhere on here where a user recommended a "4 channel" amp. Is it possible to get one amp to boost the internals and power the subs? If so, what specs/features do I need to look for? Anything specific brand I should stay away from?

More of a video question, but My last Z had a "feature" where I could watch the road behind me while driving forward. I seem to remember being able to barely pull up the e-brake in order to display the video feed. I'm getting a 2-din HU with backup camera inputs, but I'm not sure how to repliciate this functionality. I know it's not legal (at least in my state) but I really don't care. Just wondering if it's a PITA or not. If not, what's the scoop?


Thanks in advance

Last edited by jonias; 12-24-2012 at 06:55 PM.
Old 12-24-2012, 07:00 PM
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jonias
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Default crap

Apologies. I posted this in the wrong place..didn't read the forum rules until after I submitted. Please feel free to move this thread/topic to the appropriate forum without crucifixion.
Old 12-25-2012, 11:23 AM
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beezee
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Start from here.
https://my350z.com/forum/audio-builds-496/
Old 12-27-2012, 02:08 PM
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JMII
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One 10" - I'm 41 and listen to alot of old skool rap, EDM, techno, dance... clearly bass heavy stuff and one decent 10" will provide plenty of boom volume. Heck I'm currently running a single 8" now and it shakes the mirrors! I've gotten good results with Kicker, JL Audio, Polk and Image Dynamics. Its more about matching the box to the speaker, the best speaker in the wrong box will just sound like crap. Amazing how many never consider air space specs when designing a system

My standard / recommended setup is a 4 channel amp running in 3 channel mode, IE: bridge the rear channels (mono) to drive the sub use the other two (stereo) channels to drive the front speakers. Almost all 4 channel models come with a built in crossover to separate the bass frequencies from the rest of the sounds which go to your mids/tweeters. You can use your HU's built in amp to drive the rear speakers if desired. Personally I disconnected mine for full front sound stage. As for brands avoid anything that seems to good to be true with huge wattage claims. Any of the mainstream car audio names will do fine, I run Kicker now but in the past ran HiFonics. I've installed Rockford, Alpine, Orion, Pioneer, Kenwood, Sony, etc. You can't hear any differences in an amp, so as long as it not some distortion producing mess just match up to your speakers required power levels (with some cushion to avoid clipping) and your good. I like models that come with birth certificates so you know what your getting. The smaller class D amps run cooler and fit in the tight spaces: I've got a Kicker IX500.4 under the stock storage compartment with no issues at all.

Its pretty easy to override the brake switch for watching videos, its just a matter of knowing which wire on the HU needs to be grounded. The HU manual will tell you, just don't connect it to the brake and instead connect to a switch or relay that simulates the same thing. On most this might be as easy as going straight to ground (IE: bare metal). However, some of the smarter HUs look for a change in the circuit so a relay or switch might be needed then.
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