Audio Newbie
Hey guys, I just purchased a 2008 350z with the bose system. Man, does this thing suck. My question, I am planning on replacing the whole system, but want to do it in steps to keep the wife happy. lol SO what i was thinking is replace the head than amp than speakers.
What kind of amp should i get? I have speakers in mind. I'm leaning more towards jl audios for the doors and an RE for the sub. I'm hoping on also an alpine amp and the head unit i'm still looking for. Kenwood or pioneer.
Anyways, i know there is lots of threads out there... sorry for the same thing over again.
What kind of amp should i get? I have speakers in mind. I'm leaning more towards jl audios for the doors and an RE for the sub. I'm hoping on also an alpine amp and the head unit i'm still looking for. Kenwood or pioneer.
Anyways, i know there is lots of threads out there... sorry for the same thing over again.
Like Shadow said, it all depends on your budget. Front component speakers can go from 100 bux up to thousands. Just depends on how much you want to spend. Same goes for the amp, headunit etc.
As for the RE subs. I had a pair of the RE SEX tens in my Spec V back in 2010/11. Sealed box and powered off a 1000watt Alpine amp. They were not bad speakers at all.
As for the RE subs. I had a pair of the RE SEX tens in my Spec V back in 2010/11. Sealed box and powered off a 1000watt Alpine amp. They were not bad speakers at all.
i don't know much about the amps and the 1 channels and 2 channels. But, i was looking at the Jl Audio C2 or the TR.
I am not sure about the subwoofer. I was hoping that it will fit right where the bose sub would go. But, if i replaced it than it would sound like crap.
I'm really hoping i don't spend more than $600 more or less i guess. Thanks for all the advice!!!
I am not sure about the subwoofer. I was hoping that it will fit right where the bose sub would go. But, if i replaced it than it would sound like crap.
I'm really hoping i don't spend more than $600 more or less i guess. Thanks for all the advice!!!
The best solution is replacing everything, but your budget won’t permit this. The problem is that Bose is a proprietary system making it very difficult to do an upgrade that uses some of the existing Bose equipment.
Because your budget is tight, start out by replacing the H/U (Note: You also need an adapter) This provides better sound and function, but you probably won’t be satisfied. Unfortunately, the next phase is the most costly because you are swapping out speakers, and you cannot use the existing Bose amps.
I’m glad that my 350z came with the OEM Clarion system since it is much easier to upgrade or replace.
--Spike
Because your budget is tight, start out by replacing the H/U (Note: You also need an adapter) This provides better sound and function, but you probably won’t be satisfied. Unfortunately, the next phase is the most costly because you are swapping out speakers, and you cannot use the existing Bose amps.
I’m glad that my 350z came with the OEM Clarion system since it is much easier to upgrade or replace.
--Spike
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If you want a quality system, spend your $600 on a new headunit and new component speakers for the doors.
Replace the headunit, remove all Bose amps and speakers, and don't bother replacing the rear speakers (lots of threads on this, on this forum, many - myself included, believe rear speakers just cloud or distort your soundstage in such a small car.
DO THE INSTALL YOURSELF.
This is key if you want to make your dollars go as far as possible, there are many great tutorial threads on this forum. I found the threads for replacing headunit, and door speakers to be much more informative than the paperwork guides I got from Crutchfield.
A good headunit and good component speakers, properly installed, with doors deadened, sounds MUCH better than the factory bose.
Save your dollars for a few more months or as long as it takes, and THEN intall an AMP and sub. That's basically how I did it, but the space between headunit/speakers, and adding amp/sub was just while I waited to get all the components I needed (about a month). You can see my build on another thread.
Take your time and have fun getting to know your car better, nothing in stereo install is too difficult or inherently complicated, and there is SOOOO much info on this forum that as long as you plan ahead, it is a fun project.
Good Luck!
Replace the headunit, remove all Bose amps and speakers, and don't bother replacing the rear speakers (lots of threads on this, on this forum, many - myself included, believe rear speakers just cloud or distort your soundstage in such a small car.
DO THE INSTALL YOURSELF.
This is key if you want to make your dollars go as far as possible, there are many great tutorial threads on this forum. I found the threads for replacing headunit, and door speakers to be much more informative than the paperwork guides I got from Crutchfield.
A good headunit and good component speakers, properly installed, with doors deadened, sounds MUCH better than the factory bose.
Save your dollars for a few more months or as long as it takes, and THEN intall an AMP and sub. That's basically how I did it, but the space between headunit/speakers, and adding amp/sub was just while I waited to get all the components I needed (about a month). You can see my build on another thread.
Take your time and have fun getting to know your car better, nothing in stereo install is too difficult or inherently complicated, and there is SOOOO much info on this forum that as long as you plan ahead, it is a fun project.
Good Luck!
Your Alpine amp will be fine. As @NismoDude states; use a 4 channel amp, running the front left and front right to your front component speakers, and bridging the 2 rears to your SubW. --Spike
I got a Pioneer GM- D8604
really pleased with the amp. Class D so it won't overheat in the cubby next to my sub in the stock sub location.
relatively inexpensive too. I think I payed under $160 shipped from SonicElectronics.
4 x 100 W.
The manual says that when you bridge 2 channels, you get 250W (instead of 100+100=200). Not sure how that works, but plenty of power for your average 8" or 10" sub.
really pleased with the amp. Class D so it won't overheat in the cubby next to my sub in the stock sub location.
relatively inexpensive too. I think I payed under $160 shipped from SonicElectronics.
4 x 100 W.
The manual says that when you bridge 2 channels, you get 250W (instead of 100+100=200). Not sure how that works, but plenty of power for your average 8" or 10" sub.
Last edited by NismoDude; Apr 2, 2013 at 02:33 PM.
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