i really know nothing about the wattage/amperage/ohms that should be going into a system. I am basically looking for advice on a new system. I still have the original h/u and door speakers, and my rears just gave out. So, firstly i want to replace my rears, what is a good brand to replace them with? also my fronts in the doors are getting to sound terrible/ weak, should i replace them? also i have one jl 10w1v2-4 and was thinking about getting another, i havent tried it out yet but read good reviews on them awhile back and bought one. I had also planned on buying a jl mono 500/1(i can get for around 200) will this be sufficient for the two subs? also should/ would i have to buy another amp for my main speakers? I have the money to make this happen, but wanted to try and keep it under a grand lol(including a head unit at 400-500 if i decide i want it bad enough or is necessary) i really dont understand wattage ratios so please dont hit me with all that trying to figure out the wattage ohm etc... hit me with what it will take to have a nice system, i dont want anything but deep short burst styled(but deep) bass and clear audio quality

 

You can definitely put together a decent system for under $1000. My suggestion would be to invest in a good set of component speakers($150-$300), a good 5 channel amp($200-$350), and a Zenclosures.com box($150) for that single 10" sub. A decent head unit can be had for $300-$400. With a set up like that you won't even need the rear speakers.

Using the 5 channel amp allows you to run everything without needing multiple amps. This is the set up I am running but using two Alpine type R 10's. Honestly, those two 10's are a bit much. That single JL should do you fine.

 

Unless you want a navi/touchscreen headunit you don't need to spend that much. Some of the best HUs around are much closer to 200.

Just stick with one sub IMO. Theres not really enough airspace in an under-strut box for 2 unless they are shallow or designed for home audio. One hits hard enough as well.

Lugo has the right idea in my mind with a single amp. More just makes things more complicated to install.
300 Front speakers: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BL-MS-62C.html
200 Head unit: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_020CZ70...ion-CZ702.html
130 Box for sub: http://www.ebay.com/itm/ZEnclosures-350Z-Subwoofer-Enclosure-Sub-Box-1-10-NEW-/300500682236?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item45f73c85fc225 3 channel amp (forget about your rears being amped, pointless): http://www.ebay.com/itm/Massive-Audio-Nx3-AMP-3CH-120w-X-2-800w-X-1-Nano-Block-/121101845452?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item1c323b83cc
Along with any 4awg amp kit and other misc things brings it up to around a grand! forget about your rears completely or hook up a random pair of coax you get for 50 bucks to the headunit power.

Ill sell you some zenclosures door spacers for 10 plus shipping =]

Blow people away with your amazing sound.

 

i ended up getting a good deal on a 500/1 and 300/4 jl amps(350+ship) so i took it. will the single 10" even work with a 500/1 i heard if the amp is too powerful it will ruin the amp. i am starting to feel like i should have gotten a w6 or something. also i was planning on zenclosure box, but i didnt know if i wanted 1 or two 10s they sell both

 

I don't know if you remember that one time, when you said something like "don't teach me how to choose gear, just tell me what to get" since you didn't want to learn about ratings/wattages/ohms? I tried to do that for you, but instead you decided to go ahead and buy stuff and now look backwards and say **** will this work?

At this point, you almost have to buy 2 subs. Your amp will put out 500 watts at pretty much any impedance it seems, but 500 will certainly trash your single sub. Get two, run them in parallel so they get 250 each or order a new beefier single sub (my choice) that can handle 500 watts.

Also, no need to start a second thread when you have this one...

 

ok i admit i kinda screwed up but o well. I was considering a w6 or w3 anyway. But, cant i use the 4 channel instead of the monoblock? because i am needing to change the front speakers as well because my rears sound way to nice compared to those crappy clarions. id rather take some time to sell off the stuff i dont want and make due for the time being (what i meant by this is i thought eventually i could use the 300/4 on the 4 speakers and the 500/1 on the sub) but make due for now

btw do you know any good door speakers? i read somewhere coaxials are meant for rears, so what would be the term for fronts? i dont want to spend a ton though(over 150 im thinking if their amazing 100 if their pretty good) also will think about your door spacers! im pretty sure everyone needs them but i havent seen what they look like and the only install i saw was for different spacers that looked terribly difficult for spacing something

 

so if it came down to it i could switch my dxi 650 polk audio's to the doors and move the doors to the rear, i have a pac sni-35: have that hooked up to my amp and sub and be good? or are coaxials not good for door speakers?

 

Heres the spacers I was talking about: http://www.zenclosures.com/Nissan-In...infinitisp.htm
What you might be thinking of is door pods, and those are a bit more complicated and a lot more expensive. These just set the speaker out far enough so it doesn't hit the glass when your window is rolled down. Your OEM speaker set has these built in, so you can do some really ghetto salvaging if you want, or get a new set.

If you just want to make do here's what you can do. Forget about amping your rear speakers (for now!). Connect two of your 300/4 channels to your current subwoofer (this is called Bridging, where you connect the positive of channel 3 to the positive pole on the sub and the negative of channel 4 to the negative on the sub) then connect your other two channels (unbridged) to your new front speakers.

How much do you want to spend on your front speakers? If you give me a sort of price range I will have a easier time getting you a good recommendation.

Also, rears are coaxial, this means that its all sort of one piece. The fronts do better with what are called Component speakers. These have tweeters seperated from the mids (so you can put them in stock locations) as well as a separate crossover (which sends the correct signals to the diff. speakers). Component speakers are almost necessary for the front, and are also generally considered higher quality than their coaxial counterparts because of the higher quality separate crossover.

 

Also, if you're still unsure about 1 or two subs, you can always do what I did. Order a double box and build a cover for the other side youre not using. This will require me to get a bit creative in filling the two mounting holes when I do go to 2 subs, but for now it works really well and gives me the freedom to do what I want.

 

i stated in an earlier post about spending 100-150 on components if its possible to get decent speakers in this range. and these will still work with the stock non-bose hu right? because i kind of want to keep the stock hu now...i will change it if i have to, i have an older hu i could use, but i have to buy a new cable to connect it to the car because it got lost somehow from letting someone else take it out of my last car

why didnt you use the spacers?

also, i ordered a single. i will be fine without two, since i have that stronger amp if i want i will just upgrade my subs, but i heard the w1 is a solid amp

 

These would be my recommendation for fronts:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...CTX-6.5cs.html

To use an amp with stock head unit you need a Line Out Converter. I didn't use the spacers because I ended up getting a pair kick pods and was able to move the speakers out of the doors.

 

and why do you recommend these? i am just trying to understand what makes these a good choice for my setup. and tbh i havent heard of image dynamics before. i have seen the kick pods those are cool, but i will like to keep the stock look, how much for shipping to 46536?

also i have a pac sni-35 which i believe works as a line out converter?(says adjustable output adaptor) it was in my car when i got it along with most wires for the amp setups

 

Ya I was too lazy to google what your Pac thing was. I guess its a LOC so you don't have to worry.
For the speakers check out this thread:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...component.html

If you can't just take my word for it, take the word of a mass of people that know a lot about car audio. Image dynamics makes some of the best speakers around and their subs are amazing. I had Alpine Type Rs in my car and was unimpressed.

 

yeah lol, i pulled a type r out of a car my dad was fixing and selling and decided to test it; i was completely suprised how crappy they sound when i remember some kid in highschool bragging about them. What a joke. These ones you have recommended me sound like money you wont regret spending. can you also check these out? im a huge jl fan and they received good reviews, but you seem more knowledgeable then me . would these work in the setup you mentioned earlier, if i did go the jl route?(two channels wired to sub and one channel to each speaker) also could you explain how the channels work? do they add up to 300 or 300watts each or what?

ps:i am really considering those image dynamics, but i wanted to ask my local professional as well before i order them

 

Be careful about asking your local professional, only because they:
1. Might not have experience with the product.
2. Are going to push what they are distributors for.

My first audio install I went to a "professional" and got completely boned, but I didn't do the research you're doing now so hopefully that will help.

I read some reviews on those speakers. The things they have going for them are they're JL so its going to have decent build quality no matter what (means they'll last, not that they'll sound good) and that it has a decent sensitivity (which means it can get louder per watt should you want it to compared to some speakers).

The bad. It's only a half inch tweeter. This means it will fit nicely in the OEM location, but it cant play as low, meaning the mid has to make up for it. When the mid has to make up for it you lose a low of low end depth. What happens with this is usually the speakers can either sound kind of anemic at low levels and good at mid to high volumes, or good at low volumes with distortion at high volumes. You can SORTOF make up for it by running your sub to a bit higher frequencies, however this causes a million other problems.

How the channels work (You asked to avoid learning about wattages so I'll try to keep it basic, which is easy with your amp):
-Your amp is a 4 channel amp. That means four sets of positive and negative terminals.
-Each amp name doesn't always mean that's how much power it puts out all the time.
-Your amp is rated at 75 watts per channel continuously. 75 x 4 = 300 (your amp makes this easy)
-If you Bridge, or couple together two channels, the power increases. Its not always simple addition, but with your amp it is. Two channels bridged together = 75w + 75w = 150w for that new single channel.
-Each "channel" is a positive and negative terminal. The way you are hooking them up, it means basically each area of the car (Front right, Front left, Rear right, Rear left). I have mine set up so that each speaker has its own channel (IE each mid has a channel and each tweeter has a channel, instead of being connected to a crossover and then connected to the amp)

This may not seem basic, I could have just said yes your channels add, but the more info you go into your local retailer with, the better and that's what I'm trying to provide. It seems like you're leaning towards an all JL system, which is fine but you're limited to pretty much just that set that you linked for your front speakers.

 

Itd probably be like, 5 bucks for shipping in a priority flat rate box by the way.

 

he just tries to get you to bust out a ton of cash no matter what it is, i dont think he has distributor special pricing really. Like i said i liked jl and he was trying to get me to spend $1000 on an amp, and i didnt say anything, but that seemed retarded lol. i am trying to do the research so it is something i love, so i will probably go with the image dynamics. but about the tweeters, you said the jl ones would fit in the stock location. Are you saying the dynamics will not? i have a feeling the guy i am having install my stuff might be mad i didn't order anything through him, but his prices are outrageous and its my money. I say this because i dont know how to install crossovers or tune them so i will most likely let him do that also. and get tacked another hour, at professional prices.

 

i see they have a center hole adjustment option, what are yours at?

 

I just meant they'll fit easily. If you wanted you could drill out the little speaker grill on the said and then put tweeter in the surface mount cup there. What I did with my type R's was just take the old tweeters out, put the type R's (which are 1 inch) in without any surround or grill where the old ones were, and then used some washers on the oem screws and had it fit. they pretty much all come with a variety of options to mount them, and they'll all fit, but 1/2 inch tweeters make it really simple I guess is all I'm saying. 10 minutes extra work and the 1 inches will fit and sound a lot better.

For what its worth I just ordered a set of the Image Dynamics speakers. My buddy kicked a hole in my mid, so I decided its time to simplify from active back to passive. When I get them I'll give you a bit of a rundown of them.

You mentioned something about already having the wiring there. If it is, it is pretty much the easiest thing in the world to install all of this. It will take you awhile. But its not hard. Tuning your amp is the same way. You set your filters to 80 hz, slope to as high as it will go, and gain to whatever sounds loud and isn't clipping.

As for installing a crossover, its just a 1 in 2 out system. It tells you exactly where to plug everything in, and will probably come with some double sided tape so you can stick it somewhere.

I think I ordered them when I still had my massive audio ck6 set, so I'm betting they're at 5.5 inches. I'll let you know how the IDs fit in them.

 

sweetness! i will be ordering them as well, i just have not done so yet. Hope you love them! I will probably let my guy deal with all this hastle im sure he will do fine, he has done work for me and my dad before and havent had problems. people say he does amazing work with amps and everything audio basically. but thank you for teaching me all this! it certainly is good to know.

also quick question about the amp.. do all channels have to be constantly used? i was sorta wondering if i got a more powerful sub that i could hook up the 500/1 to it(like a w6) and still used the 300/4 on the front speakers. i realize this would involve needing another battery or capacitor