turbochrged

I currently have:

HU: Kenwood DDX470

Speakers: JBL GTO609c
On JBL's website they state that they are 5W-200W rms, however on their UK website they say they are 75W rms. I wasn't able to find much, if any information on these components from these forums.

I will be purchasing two JL 10w3v3 (100-500W rms) along with the amp(s).
From searching online I know that I should run 2 amps if I am doing 2 subwoofers but I am having a hard time understanding what ohms and amps to run. The audio shop I have been dealing with, predictably, recommended JL amps and while I'm not opposed to going the route of paying more for quality equipment I was wondering if there was a cheaper alternative.

My questions are:
1. What amp would be ideal to run the front components off of?
2. What amp would be ideal to run two JL 10w3v3? What ohm subs should I run, 2 or 4?

I'm aiming to keep the cost of subs and amps under 1000, but I am open to all suggestions.

Thank you!

beezee

iTrader: (19)

don't think too much into those ohms, rms stuff. If going the JL route get a JL 300/4V2 to run your front and rear speakers (rears optional) and a JL 500/1v2 to run your 2 subs. done.

BipJip

A1. a class a/b 4 channel 150w per channel should do for the componets. this gives you expandabilty for 2 more speakers. or if you dont want to add more speakers jump down to a 2 channel 150w per channel amp.
A2. if you choose to run 1 amp for both subs i would get a 1200w class d 2 channel amp. be careful of cheep amps that say they output 1000china watts. but they cant handle the lower ohm ratings. if you check flee-bay alot of amps that were produced in the 90's (phoenix gold TI, PPI PC, and orion HCCA) are some of the greatest amps ever produced, you can pick up a great amp for under $250 ea. and they are properly rated and produce lots of power and can handle 1/2 ohm ratings.

turbochrged

Okay, from other posts i've seen i'll go with the 500/1 for the subs.
I don't plan on rear speakers so is there an amp that would be more suitable to just the fronts that i can save a little money on, or is it necessary to get the 4 channel and just have to deal with the extra two channels.

Would this work for the components?
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-YkAuu8Q...o-JX360-2.html

Collin Lacy

You can run 1 amp if you want to.
Are the 10w3v3 subs that you got the 2 ohm or the 4 ohm model? If you get the -2 model then you can run them at 1 ohm or 4 ohms, if you get the -4 model you can run them at 2 ohms or 8 ohms.
They recommended JL because pretty much every shop out there seems to make a majority of their retail cash from JL and Kicker products.

Ho-Lee crap. What terrible advice. "don't pay any attention to that important stuff, just do what I say." They give you those numbers for a reason, and if we teach him what they mean he can make informed decisions.

You can run a 2 channel if you don't ever plan on using rear speakers or switching to an active setup. 150watts is fine, would be my recommendation, however just an FYI their RMS rating is around 90 watts.

the 500/1 isnt really strong enough for those two subs (with this amp you need the two 4 ohm model subs, wired to 2 ohms.) Would be plenty for one 2 ohm sub however =].

Collin Lacy

Also, if you want to save some cash on an amp, I have a massive audio NX2 (puts out 120 watts per channel, and its super tiny) that works perfectly, I just moved to a simpler system. I'm asking around 100 bucks for it right now shipped. Obviously if you want everything to match it wouldn't work, but it would save you some cash and it was a great amp.

turbochrged

Okay, thanks for your reply..

So if I go with two 10w3-4ohms wired to 2 ohms with a 500/1, and then use the 360/2 for the speakers it should be pretty much set?

Would it be better off going with a JX 1000/1d, and the 360/2?

Collin Lacy

Well the RMS ratings on those subs are 500 watts, generally if you're going to spend the money on a sub that can handle that much power, you should give it that much power. a 500/1 puts out 500 watts at 2 ohms, so each would get 250, half its rating. You would be better off getting two smaller subs that doesn't handle as much power, but would also need less airspace to be efficient, since you don't have much space to work with as it is. They would also be cheaper. By going with a 1000/1 you get 1000 watts at 2 ohms, so 500 per sub (their recommendation). Underpowering a sub made to take more wont hurt anything, but to some degree the voice coils are so heavy duty that they need a bit more juice to power to "get moving". This might be why the sensitivity (or loudness per watt of power) doesn't seem to increase when going to a higher rated sub.