Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

I think it'd work well enough.

But,.. If I end up installing this system.. whatever it finally ends up being.. I'll get some quarter inch spacers to put under the amp.. and mount it down in that passenger glove box.

I'll probably actually mount it outside of the car,.. get a piece of wood.. maybe 1/2-3/4 " thick .. carpet it,.. spacer the bottom of amp slightly.. and screw into the board,.. then mount the board in the glove box.

Makes a big difference giving that little big of room under an amp for air flow, even if that door is shut.

I'm also strongly considering a Class D amp,.. read up on them and it seems they are where tech is going,.. just have to drop your pre-conceived notions on A, A/B and D. (They really shouldn't have named Class D amps .. Class D!).. Then don't go with something dirt cheap,.. and you get good clean power, that runs cooler and is usually smaller than A/B tech.

We'll see.

But I did measure.. and man even that glovebox has a ton of room, more than I expected. I didn't even take out the lower little pan, or carpet.. just straight measured height/width and depth -- I measured about 4 inches up as it loses depth as you go upwards do to the angular shape of it.

As long as your amp is under 18 inches you are fine in there.

Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

Is that the Gas tank with that wire/fuel line/ whatever coming out the top?

NismoDude

Get a class D amp.

Had many amps back in the day that got so fricken hot I thought they were gonna start a fire, but my new class D 4-ch amp is too cool for school.

From Crutchfield:

Our take on the Pioneer GM-D8604
by Buck Pomerantz




Cool power
Pioneer's sharp-looking GM-D8604 4-channel amplifier can send 100 watts RMS to each of your front and rear speakers, for powerful music that'll get you and your car rockin'. Highly efficient Class D technology keeps this powerful amp running as cool as it looks, and allows for a compact chassis that fits in a lot of out-of-the-way spaces. If you're building a big system in stages, you can use this versatile amp at first to drive a pair of speakers with the front two channels while bridging the rear channels together to power a subwoofer with up to 300 watts RMS. Later on, you can get Pioneer's big mono amp to drive your subs, and switch this amp over to run all four of your full-range speakers.

Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

Yah,.. I'm going to go Class D. They REALLY should not have named it "Class D".. it gives the wrong impression of the amp,.. it makes someone not informed think it's the "4th" ranked amp compared to Class A, A/B.. (is there a C?).. but you know what I mean.. you see Class D,.. and I think,.. hrmm I guess this amp is a little less clean and meant for Subs primarily.

But after some reading if you get a Class D amp of a good reputable brand.. like Pioneer that you mentioned.. it's good clean power, that runs cooler, is smaller,.. and even better on your cars battery/alternator.

That Pioneer GM-D8604 has plenty of power to run my front components and a Sub,.. whether I go 8" or 10"..


A TON of people don't want to stop buying A, or A/B class amps because they just think a solid Class D amp is dirty, high distortion power.. and the way it's named, and priced.. it seems "lesser" .. but it's not. It's just advanced technology. Of course a $40 Class D amp pushing 500 watts is not going to happen.. But that Pioneer amp you mention runs $140 new (even $120-130 if you shop around).. and has oodles of power.

That's $100 cheaper than the A/B class amp I was going to get. If I threw in the other $100 and bought a $230 or so class D amp.. I could probably find a 5 channel Class D amp that would put somewhere around 100watts x 4 (4 ohms) and 300watts x 1 (4ohms) for sub. Where I could run a complete set of 6.5" speakers in factory spots.. + the 3/4" tweeters in the sail panels.. AND power the sub I'm going to put in the factory location using this box:

http://srqcustoms.3dcartstores.com/N...-10_p_160.html

I can't decide whether to go and replace all 4 speakers .. or just put some nice components up front with 3/4" tweeters and a 8" sub (maybe 10").

The money isn't a huge difference to be honest,.. but I'm still on the fence about installing myself. I know I would eventually get it installed,.. but me and tight places don't like each other.

I lift weights (just for health really).. but am a big guy.. 6ft 205lbs.. no idea what my shoulder width is, but I just had an MRI Monday and my shoulders were too broad to fit in the machine.. so they had to put me in another one. I'm not fat,.. just built like a Running back or something I guess.

Example.. I did the clutch adjustment a few days back.. and just getting that pin back in took me ages! I didn't fit down there upside down.. had to squeeze my shoulders in.. and I have big hands. The whole time I was thinking, man I should just take this front seat out. I managed to adjust it,.. but the time consuming part for *me* was that stupid pin.. it didn't want to go back in.. took me 20 minutes to get the pin in .. twice.

Why twice? I adjusted it two turns.. and the pedal felt better,.. and I could clearly hear the throwout bearing when I let the clutch out,.. but I got a little worried about it,.. so did it ALL over again.. and rotated it back to where it was when I started. sigh.. To top it all off, I'm probably going to do it a third time and adjust it just ONE turn,.. cause I think it was fine since I heard the throwout bearing and the clutch was clearly off the flywheel. Point is, tight spots and me don't get along.

I've yet to find a step by step DIY on the 350Z *FULL* install of all the speakers and wiring up components up front, rear speakers, and removing every panel you remove.

Seats I can handle. 4 bolts a piece.. not big deal,.. but the pictures I see show door panels off, but don't go panel by panel (which makes me feel more comfortable even though I'd figure it out..)

So,.. questions :

1) Would you just run some nice components up front,.. disconnect the clarion base model rear speakers,.. and put a 8 or 10" sub .. and something like that class D Pioneer amp in? OR.. would you buy more amp, and more speakers and put components up front, + new 6.5" mids behind the seats (and the sub) ?

If you would put 4 speakers in.. If I went 100watt in the front .. should I go a little lower power wise in the rear? Or just throw in more 100watt coaxials (or maybe put something without tweeters back there?).

I have some old (but still in good condition) 70watt RMS oldschool MB Quart 6.5" coaxials that are insanely loud (and clear). I'm just afraid with that much front stage (4 high end speakers) that it may be a tweeter fest in the car I don't plan on going active initially.

2) Happen to know where a complete panel by panel DIY is for installing a system in the 350Z that shows every single panel coming off? I'm talking even the battery panels I'd remove, cause I'd have to figure out how to get the 4gauge (min.) power wire through the firewall.

All I know so far is Pull both seats, pull the door panels,.. pull out the headunit,.. and take panels off surrounding battery (including the trim that the windshield wiper blade sits on).. What about kick panels.. side panels where the bottom of the door meets the car (and I guess carpet gets held tight??) .. Does the carpet come up in the car easy enough? Or no? What about kick panels? How many up front panels do you pull off, and while many panels just pop off.. some have a screw or two you need to find the location of, or you'll screw the panel up obviously. Center console comes out I'm sure.. and I'll be removing that rear panels over the glove box and factory sub.. (basically gutting the interior of the car from glovebox forward). To give me adequate space to run all this stuff.

I know I can figure it out,.. but having a picture guide on all the panels sure would be handy to know you aren't yanking on a panel that isn't screwed or bolted in.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

I didn't read all of the last post, but here is my suggestion.

Get a good component set for up front, I'm running Rainbow's and it is plenty loud enough.

Ditch the rear, it's unnecessary weight.

Get good amps. I have a Sundown 100.4 A/B amp for my doors and a Sundown 1000D for the sub.

Then I'm running a single custom made 12" sub in a sealed box. Loud enough to flex the windshield but still crystal clear sound.

Also make sure you have a good head unit. If your source is ****, your high end components will just amplify ****.

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

I made a tutorial to gut the car (everything but the headliner, carpet and 3/4 of the dash. But all of that is not needed to replace the radio.

There is a big grommet in the corner by the windshield on the passenger side. You can cut a slit in it and run any size wire you want through it (it's huge) and it will drop down behind the passenger kick panel.

Chromatic

iTrader: (4)

*No worries on the headunit.. I already have installed in the car a Pioneer AVG-P4100DVD -- specs here: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...s/AVH-P4100DVD *

Ok,.. this is the problem. I'm asking questions on recommendations on this forum and a car audio forum. Every single person who responds recommends a completely different speaker and usually says something negative about the speakers that have been recommended. It's frustrating.

I'd like to go with a brand I'm somewhat familiar with.. Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JL, MB Quart, Polk, etc.. long term solid name brands. I'm getting recommendations of anything from CDT to brands that have been on the market a few years.

Looks like I'll be running something like 100watt components RMS in the front, and a single sub.. I'm going to go with a JL 8" sub (I don't want much bass.. just a little more than the factory sub would give).. I want clean sound.. nice blend of lows/mid/highs and just a touch of 'kick' from the 8" sub.

So you recommend "Rainbows" ?

Also,.. mind linking your "gutting" of the car?

And, thanks for the grommet suggestion, I knew there was one around there.. but didn't know how easy it was to work with. Now saying it comes down behind the kick panel,.. how do I get to the wire at that point? I assume remove panels up front, I just haven't seen a DIY of the front part of the car in stereo installs for wiring.

Thanks

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

Rainbow is an expensive German brand. Great product but you have to be willing to drop the cash.

CDT and Polk make good stuff, but I would only suggest the Polk MOMO's because I don't have experience with their other stuff. I actually have CDT crossovers in my car right now until I pull them and run some more wires to go active.

To get the kick panel off you will need to pull the weatherstrip loose at the bottom and about halfway up the front. Just grab the rubber and pull straight up.

Then the plastic trim across the sill comes off. Start at the back, grab it and wiggle and pull up. It will just pop out of the clips no problem. When you get to the curve at the front will will kinda have to pull up and back. Just take it easy and wiggle/feel as you go.

Then for the kick panel, there is a plastic nut at the front up under the dash. Should only be finger tight but might need a 10mm IIRC. spin it off, then grab the back part of the kick panel, pull it away from the door (towards the center console) and the 2 clips should release, then pull it back (towards the seat) to get it off the stud at the firewall.

Then if you stick your head up under the dash you can see the grommet that the wire will stick down through.

The carpet is just hooked over the plastic clips for the sill cover.


What car audio forum are you on?

92K1500

iTrader: (1)

http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/f...build-log.html

There is my build log. It needs updated but it has just about everything you need to know.

And you don't have to pull the plastic out of the hatch to get to the rear speakers. I was following the FSM but learned some shortcuts.

JMII

This is because everyone perfers a different "sound", similar to how everyone has different taste (mild or spicy wings? Light or dark beer?). Honestly its mostly over-hyped since a car is a noisy, messy environment as far as sound quality goes. Basically there are too many other factors influencing the sound (namely location) to say speaker A sounds *that* much better then speaker B. Thus stick with decent, well established brands and you'll be fine. Technically with enough power you can EQ out most differences between speakers anyway. Even some of the cheaper brands (especially subwoofers) can sound really good when installed or tuned properly.

A buddy of my runs CDTs, currently I've got a mix of JL, Infinity and Kicker but in the past I've run Polk and JBL. It's all good.