front speaker recommendations....?
02-14-2004, 07:21 PM
#23
I'd go Focals. (actually I did). I tend to favor home speaker manufactures since they aren't into as many gimmicks and are all about REAL sound. Focal makes over $100k home speakers and Dynaudio makes very good home gear as well, sure enough, when I listen to these car speakers, I liked them the most, Focals are great for the $$.
02-16-2004, 05:54 AM
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Will the 165k2's or 3's fit wihtout the spacers and would my installer have a tougher time installing these versus one that doesn't need them. Any loss in quality with spacers? Thanks guys.
02-16-2004, 10:59 PM
#26
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Originally posted by dgtlbullet
Will the 165k2's or 3's fit wihtout the spacers and would my installer have a tougher time installing these versus one that doesn't need them. Any loss in quality with spacers? Thanks guys.
Will the 165k2's or 3's fit wihtout the spacers and would my installer have a tougher time installing these versus one that doesn't need them. Any loss in quality with spacers? Thanks guys.
I can't comment on whether or not they'll fit without spacers, but I can say that you *shouldn't* have any quality loss when using spacers as long as the spacers are well designed. Make sure they provide a good seal between the speaker and door panel. A custom made simple wooden ring makes a good spacer, and should be easy for any shop to do.
On that note, I'm guessing you'll need a spacer for most aftermarket speakers, as they tend to have deeper mounting depths than cheap factory speakers. I haven't actually opened up the 350Z's doors to see how much room is behind the speaker hole, but I'm guessing it's not not a lot. A spacer should be easy, though.
02-17-2004, 06:16 AM
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Thanks for the info guys. I am still a newbie to all audio stuff and am not familiar with installation at all. I appreciate your help. Can't wait to get this system in. The system by far is my biggest problem with this car but hopefully it will be fixed very soon. I'll let you guys know how it comes out.
02-17-2004, 08:05 PM
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As with most Bose systems, if you plan to go aftermarket you pretty much have to go all the way. The amps they use are usually not good quality, are very low power, and are only marginally better than the awful amps inside of head units.
Additionally, BOSE systems often include some complex wiring from driver to driver, resulting in some odd impedences. Their amps are designed to handle these odd configurations, but if you start putting in aftermarket drivers with standard 4-ohm loads, you'll probably start pushing things out of range for the BOSE amps.
In my experience, the people I've known who have replaced factory Bose drivers with aftermarket drivers (and kept the Bose amps) have been unhappy with the results.
I'd highly recommend using all aftermarket drivers and amps, and removing or disconnection all the Bose equipment. Unfortunately, intermixing things will rarely result in quality sound.
Additionally, BOSE systems often include some complex wiring from driver to driver, resulting in some odd impedences. Their amps are designed to handle these odd configurations, but if you start putting in aftermarket drivers with standard 4-ohm loads, you'll probably start pushing things out of range for the BOSE amps.
In my experience, the people I've known who have replaced factory Bose drivers with aftermarket drivers (and kept the Bose amps) have been unhappy with the results.
I'd highly recommend using all aftermarket drivers and amps, and removing or disconnection all the Bose equipment. Unfortunately, intermixing things will rarely result in quality sound.
02-17-2004, 08:15 PM
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speaking from experience with the Audi i see. Yea i gotta agree, the Bose system if the one in the Z is like the other bose system uses an odd Ohm configuration(1ohm or so) and is not compatible with most aftermarket speakers.
Originally posted by jreiter
As with most Bose systems, if you plan to go aftermarket you pretty much have to go all the way. The amps they use are usually not good quality, are very low power, and are only marginally better than the awful amps inside of head units.
Additionally, BOSE systems often include some complex wiring from driver to driver, resulting in some odd impedences. Their amps are designed to handle these odd configurations, but if you start putting in aftermarket drivers with standard 4-ohm loads, you'll probably start pushing things out of range for the BOSE amps.
In my experience, the people I've known who have replaced factory Bose drivers with aftermarket drivers (and kept the Bose amps) have been unhappy with the results.
I'd highly recommend using all aftermarket drivers and amps, and removing or disconnection all the Bose equipment. Unfortunately, intermixing things will rarely result in quality sound.
As with most Bose systems, if you plan to go aftermarket you pretty much have to go all the way. The amps they use are usually not good quality, are very low power, and are only marginally better than the awful amps inside of head units.
Additionally, BOSE systems often include some complex wiring from driver to driver, resulting in some odd impedences. Their amps are designed to handle these odd configurations, but if you start putting in aftermarket drivers with standard 4-ohm loads, you'll probably start pushing things out of range for the BOSE amps.
In my experience, the people I've known who have replaced factory Bose drivers with aftermarket drivers (and kept the Bose amps) have been unhappy with the results.
I'd highly recommend using all aftermarket drivers and amps, and removing or disconnection all the Bose equipment. Unfortunately, intermixing things will rarely result in quality sound.
