Hey all,

Currently have 2 front Polks and a kenwood HU.

Im installing new 6.5" rear speakers and 2 subs in the rear next week with a 4 ch. 2x200w RMA 2/4 ohm amp and two 10" kicker subs (svc).
I know a lot of people dislike rear speakers but I prefer the full sound. Ive done research but all i find is the panel removal DIY. Do new rear speakers require brackets?
And do the front seats need to be moved forward to remove the panels? My driver seat went out and it wont move forward.

As for the subs,
Will installing the amp where the stock Bose sub goes cause it to over heat? I will remove the sub obviously.
Also if im running the subs bridged, I can't also connect the speakers to the amp?

Thanks all

 

Crutchfield says yes to the brackets but I've found on two installs that you don't need them for the rears but you will have to re-drill new mounting holes as there is a diff between the bolt pattern of stock to aftermarket speakers. Easy five minute job.

As far as the panel/housing removal, it certainly HELPS to be able to move the seat but as I recall, you should be able to pull the side panels and the housing with the seatback forward.

On the sub, read this (very good info): http://www.crutchfield.com/S-f1p5mbI...fers-ohms.html

Amp location in the rear cubby shouldn't be a problem. Mine's been back there for 3 years on one car and 2 years on my other car, no issues.
Good luck.

 

Ok cool, thats good to hear. I dont like amps to show, I like low pro systems :X

The speakers I have the usual holes on the edges, and a few tabs that extend a 1/4" out, so I doubt they need brackets. I dont mindn drilling new holes.

Anyone know how to jump a seat to move it forward? mine is stuck.

 

Your going to have a better time if you can get the seat up... I removed that entire back plastic area and center console... Running the amp wire and rca's and all that is going to be tricky without taking the interior apart. If I was you I would just remove the seat and save yourself the trouble.

My amp is also in that cubby.. I made a little mdf shelf for it to sit on. Haven't had any problems.

I had to drill new holes for the back speakers.. Might want to mat the panel while your at it... And while its apart.

Did the motors in your seat die? Sucks they dont have a manual override like the passenger side.

 

I dont think the motor died since itll move reverse, i think the switch is bad.
I cant remove the seats since there isnt enough room to fit a 14mm back there.

 

Take those switches apart and see what you can do... Its going to be almost impossible putting an amp in that cubby without moving your seat.

 

The seat back moves forward but the actual seat won't. I want to remove it to run wires, im going to try to stick my hand in there and get all cut up.

 

I wired up the subs today and they dont hit hard. Right now they hit like a decent sounding stock system with a sub.
They are two Kicker Comp 10" to a Jensen 70w RMS x 4 channel amp. When bridged it puts out 170w which should be enough to power the subs.
I tried messing with the settings and nothing. When I flip the channel switch on the amp to 3 or 4, one of the subs sounds good. Any tips?

Also installed a 10" into my girlfriends Altima with a Boss mono amp and that think hits hard. Mine sounds mehhh.

 

Theyre wired up like this.

 

The design of the car. The car does not work will with boxes in the trunk

 

Your not going to like my suggestion... But I would get a new amp and ditch one of the subs... One 10 in the hatch should have more then enough air movement to hit hard. I have a singe 8 inch and I think its more then enough... I have its twin in my basement because I originally bought 2...

But im guessing your amp is the main problem... Your subs need more power.

 

Getting any system to sound good is all in the details. I've got a single 10" JL sub in my car, and it sounds great. The box I made is airtight, well-damped, and constructed very solidly. It's also very close to the optimum internal volume recommended by the JL for that particular sub. What are you using for an enclosure?

 

I blame the sh!tty amp. You are feeding those subs half of the recommended RMS power.

 

This isn't true whatsoever....quite the opposite actually....the angled hatch helps bounce the air toward the cabin if you have your sub positioned to fire upwards. I've tried both positions...firing back to the license plate and firing up towards the hatch glass, and firing up into the glass definitely gives an even better bass response.

Mine isn't firing up in my install though and it still sounds pretty darn good. One 10" sub getting about 500W I think...forget the wattage setup right now.