TL;DR - I have 6 subs, and 2 amps. What to do?


I have 4 Kicker Subs.


* 2 [07CVR104's](http://www.crutchfield.com/S-hiWu1uQ...-07CVR104.html)


and


* [2 40CWS104](http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CWS...WS104&skipvs=T)

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> which would be better for a [2 sub setup in a 350z in this box?](http://www.supercrewsound.com/350Z210AR.html)

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* would a [JBL GTX 500](http://www.crutchfield.com/p_109GTX5...gtx+500&tp=115) be able to power either pairs of these subs?


* would an [audiobahn a8002T](http://www.crutchfield.com/S-2VvT352...hn-A8002T.html) be able to power either pairs of these subs?


I also have 2 [JBL GTO1204D](http://www.crutchfield.com/S-14uhDn9...D.html)...what would be an appropriate (or specs for one) amp to use to power these?


TL;DR - I have 6 subs, and 2 amps and 2 cars. What to do?
Among the audio equipment I have hoarded, What setup do I go for?


One car is a single battery Nissan 350z ([Pioneer AVH-P3300BT](https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-P...p?ie=UTF8))and the other is a dual battery 2002 Silverado 2500([Pioneer DEH-X4800BT](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01463VLLI...I340Q5BYOVSU3W)).

[Pictures](https://imgur.com/a/W3hJY)

 

I apologize if this seems kinda rough, I'm very bad with car audio and have been struggling with electrical issues...so far the only feedback ivce received is craigslist it all and get a brand new setup. But I'm on a budget and would like to salvage what I can. Everythings in good working order.

 

The speaker box you picked has air space of .70 cubic feet per sub, so which sub fits that... hmmmmm let's see

Kicker VRs need 0.8 to 3.0 cu. ft.
Kicker CompS need 1.00 to 2.40 cu. ft.
JBL GTO is a 12" sub and the box only fits 10" so that ain't going to work regardless

So the VRs are a best match for that box as far as air space requirements go, the other Kicker subs require too much air space so forget them. Next lets check the amps...

JBL GTX500 amp = 350 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms or 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
Audiobahn A8002T = 400 watts RMS x 2 at 2 ohms or 800 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms

The Audiobahn amp claims to put out more power but this is just advertising so who knows. The bigger issue is the ohm load and the number of channels. So as far as wiring goes since it can be run stereo or bridged its more flexible. The dual 4 ohm subs can be wired two ways: either 2 ohms or 8 ohms. To make things simple you have 2 subs so you want a 2 channel amp that supports 2 or 8 ohms. The JBL is a one channel amp so it ain't going to work here.

So I would take the Audibahn run it in stereo at 400 watts X 2 channels @ 2 ohms each. To do this wire each dual 4 ohm sub voice coil in parallel to 2 ohms then wire it to a single channel. Repeat this for the 2nd sub.

Done with the Z, for your other vehicle it all comes down to the box, but you pretty much have to pick one that optimized with whatever you have left over.

 

Man thank you. This post really helped break it down and give me a better understanding because it used an applicable example. I guess I will look for a more perfect solution to a non-existent problem

 

I've used a pretty simple system to setup audio stuff since the mid 1980s:

1) First figure out your available air space, generally this is a fixed value based on what box will fit inside the vehicle.
2) Then see how many of what size woofers will fit. Keep in mind more is better then larger, IE four 8"s > two 10"s.
3) Then calculate the ohm load. Multiple DVC subs can be wired in several ways but the power will always be divided equally among them.
4) Finally pick an amp that is optimized to distribute power for that ohm load.

Most people do this backwards - they get some random amp (1,000 watts!!!) then find out it will not drive the speakers they bought, which require more air space then they have anyway.

 

Im of the opinion that anything more than 1 sub is overkill in the Z... I didnt figure out what you have but I would just run one sub in a enclosure in the hatch and call it a day. Where you at in Connecticut?

 

I'm in central CT, Just outside of Hartford. I've currently got a box that fits under the rear strut bar for 2 10s so (un)fortunately I'm partial to going that route

 

Nice im right on the ct line by Enfield. Anything back in the hatch will work out good, I used to have a single 8 inch under their and I thought that was impressive considering.

 

so only about 25 minutes or so away, that's pretty cool. Once I can get the car up and running I want to install some subs

 

What's missing to make the car up and running?

I used to have my hatch like this



But now I keep it like this


I dont miss it all that much.

 

solely for the purpose of weight reduction? And to be honest, I'm not exactly sure. I feel like ejther I have a bad ground or an electrical short somewhere. If that's not the issue than I feel like it's probably a stock anti theft issue. Car won't even crank 90% of the time and it's very random. Battery is fine. Fusible link is fine.

I made another post about it with as much information as I could provide that's in my post history but it's difficult to post the link while mobile.