10" JL Audio Subs in Factory Location
#27
I mounted the subs behind the moutning plate, so that they fall 1" further into the open area behind the seats rather than stick up an inch towards the seats...does that make sense? They actually are perfectly flush with the round hole in the mouting plate.
#30
Originally posted by saint01
here is the battery and the 8-gauge wire powering the amp
here is the battery and the 8-gauge wire powering the amp
#31
Here's an off the wall idea for all you guys trying to seal up the stock sub location. Go to your local hardware store. Take a trip down the insulation isle. Now find yourself a can or two of the expandable insulation that builders use to fill in around window frames.
There are TWO kinds so pay attention. I advise you get the FLEXIBLE kind. It comes in a can and has a small tube so you can spray it where you want it. It expands a bunch and fills in all the little cracks and it is easy to make that entire area air tight.
This stuff is a LOT cheaper that Dynamat, and it's MUCH easier to spray it in than having to roll the Dynamat into place.
Try it, it works!
There are TWO kinds so pay attention. I advise you get the FLEXIBLE kind. It comes in a can and has a small tube so you can spray it where you want it. It expands a bunch and fills in all the little cracks and it is easy to make that entire area air tight.
This stuff is a LOT cheaper that Dynamat, and it's MUCH easier to spray it in than having to roll the Dynamat into place.
Try it, it works!
#32
my buddy did that...i have to say that his sub isn't nearly as crisp as mine is with the dynomat. my dynomat was $25 for a 34 foot long piece that was 12" wide. that was more than enough for both compartments...that foam could help in certain areas, but doesn't work as well as my buddy thought it would...just my experience
#33
what about using both? i am doing my install today as well...my car is TORN apart right now. hehe..im waiting on my amp. The sub def. doesnt fit in the holes so ill have to think of something. i am putting the amp in the middle of the glove box so everything should be nicely hidden. i am using an MTX sub so i guess we'll see how it sounds. ill probably end up dynomatting it some time in the near future. ill take pics of my car torn apart for the guys that are planning on doing installs and post them later tonight.
#34
I am not sure how using both foam and dynomat would work. All dynomat is, is peal and seal. it is a tar that when heated, attaches to whatever it is touching and creates a sort of insulation. I would imagine that if you sprayed the foam first, the dynomat could attach itself. Once the tar heats up though, I am not sure what good the 2 of them together would be. I suppose the tar could heat up and attach itself to the foam which would be attached to the sheet metal.
All i did was dynomat and I have ZERO rattles and the Base hits really hard...I don't see the need for both
All i did was dynomat and I have ZERO rattles and the Base hits really hard...I don't see the need for both
#35
I was actually thinking the same thing with the expanded foam. I would probably use it to fill up gaps and spaces. I only plan on using the compartment behind the driver so I guess I'd have to seal it off from the other half (I haven't busted it open yet to look). Then Dynamat the flat surfaces and other areas where this is more practical. What do you guys think? I would like to mount the amp under the seat also so I can save the glove box for storage.
#36
I've used both and then coated it all with the VB spread from cascade audio engineering and i'm glad i did the extra work while i could. If your debaiting worther or not to do both, think of it this way" What can it hurt to do both?"....Nothing.-
#38
What did everyone use between the plate and the car. A gasket of some sort or does it come with one? I haven't torn out the rear yet as I'm still trying to decide between a amp/sub or just get the infiniti basslink and be done with it all at once.
#39
? not sure what exactly you me Hokie. there is a plate that comes mounted to the sheet metal behind the plastic cover. Take that cover off and you will see what we are talking about.
#40
Cover the entire back part of the sub mounting plate with Dynomat or if your on a budget, use Peel & Seal( Also called" Roofing tape" Basicly the same thing but for a fraction of the price. After wards, you just carve of the edges with a razor. Trust me, it'll still bolt up just fine.