Anyone that can help would be greatly appreciated. I torn the car apart to install 2 10" subs, one in the factory location and the other in the glove compartment location.

Basically, my question is how did any of you get the subs mounted. I have 2 brackets, but the screws are way to wide to mount the subs without some farication. I thoughts about some plywood, but it can't be too thick because there isn't enough room once the covers are put on. So basically, I am down to dynomatting around the edges, and twisty-tie them on. It is a poor solution to so much work, but I can't figure out any other way to get them on.

thanks for any help!

 

I would recommend build a box that fit in the compartment.. DO NOT just dynamat it.. it will not sound clean...

remove the metal mounting plate so you will have more room...

do a search on this board, you will find your answers..

 

I will have pics hopefully soon of the shop doing mine (if they remember to take pics with my camera). Just one 10" JL sub though.

It will not sound good if you mat the area (so they tell me). You need to make the box inside the compartment like said above. Also you would need a free air sub to do what your talking about (i think?)?

 

hey guys,
anyone know how to remove the metal mounting plate, and do you know about how much is to build a box for that stock location? thanks for your help...

 

tweeter wanted 375, I paid 250.

 

I have a couple of friends that dynomatted the area and then just mounted their JL 10's and all of theirs sounds good. I figured out how to mount them, as I had to build some custom brackets to get them in there.

With regards to getting the metal mounting plate off. You have to take the entire rear consol out, at which time you will have access to all of the bolts and enough room to work with

 

Are you saying that a standard 10" sub will not be usable with the factory sub mounting bracket? Like the one that you can buy from Courtesy or that should come with the bose system? I was considering just buying that bracket and a free air sub. Thanks.

 

I think it depends on the sub you use. For my Image Dynamics IDQ10, I just drilled out new holes and dynamat around the edges to prevent any air leak.

 

Your car already has the mounting bracket.

 

The track model has the metal sub bracet behind the blank panel??? I Do not have the bose setup.

 

neither do I, I have the enthusiast.

 

I went with the sub in the stock location set up and was very pleased with the results. I've had plenty people tell me that it wont work but i like it. When i started the project, my goal was to create a system that suites a maltimedia set up that was more clean than boomy. I went for sound Q, not high output. Bass response is quick and responsive with very good range through out the frequency range. Surprisingly, it also played louder than i thought it would. I think that if you want a high output system, than you should go with an encloser in the spare tire tub or behined the strut tower bar. If you want clean output, clean and stealth install than this install is for you.

F.Y.I. I'm using two 10" Kicker Comp VR. powered by a 1200.1 Kicker class D amp.

The Kicker subs where an amazing fit i could not beleave it. I tried to get JL subs fitted, but they don't come close to fitting like the Kickers do.

 

Great to hear your setup worked well. I think I Want to do something like this to keep complexity down. I also want to go for quality and I don't need it to blow my ear drums. The Z cabin is so small as long as it sounds good I don't care if the neighborhood can hear it.

So did you just buy the OEM sub bracket and just screw in the sub (or do all cars have the bracket)? Did you have to drill new holes or did the sub line up ok? What did you do to seal the compartment behind the seats, dynamat everywhere? Where did you end up putting your amp? Sorry for all the questions but as I said I'm pretty new to the car stereo stuff. Thanks!!!

 

I went to my local Nissan dealership and bought two speaker covers and a second sub mounting bracket. Covers cost me $14.00 per pair and monting bracket was $46.00. Just to let you know, This install was not easy by any means so if you're a "D.I.Y" kind of person, you better make sure that you have a plan, all your material( Extra material highly recommended), tons of patience, and commitment. Honestly, i think that it is easier to glass a box under the strut bar than to go this route. I'm very pleased with my results and the hard work payed off. First off, i dyna matted just about every square inch of the sub location as i could. Next i went with a heat gun a small wooden rollers to secure the matting( Inside and out). Next i crafted a mold using card boards to isolate the seat belt housing from the rest of the encloser( Very complicated). I used ducked tape to secure the mold in place. Afterwards, i layered the mold with dyna mat than went over it with two layers of fiber glass and fiber mat( Don't make the fiber glass layers too thick because if you have to service your seat belt in the future, it's going to be difficult to break limiting your access too you seat belt hardware). make sure not to start the fiber glass application early in the morning if you know that you need to do other things to your car afterwards because the fiber glass smell is going to **** you up afterwards.after letting the car sit for almost two whole days i went in to do the finishing touches of sealing everything with a paint on VB sealer but not before i beaded all the seems with one stage foam. Be careful with the foam, it can become very messy. Try to use it sparingly just to seal off hard to reach areas. Lastly, fill entire encloser with poly fill( Lots of it...well be resonable) and mount subs. My speaker grills did not have enough surround clearence so i rear mounted them then mounted the whole plate in afterwards. Use what ever left over dyna mat that you have to fill what ever holes are around the mounting bracket. Oh yah, try to be careful not to cover the holes that you panels need to clip into especially with the foam. Again, be carefull with the foam and use gloves and breather mask if you have one.( Go get one, you wont reget it). before you start any of this, think about what you need to do and what you want to accomplish. make sure to run all your wires to where ever they need to go. Make sure everything work properly. If everything goes smoothly, then do your thing and rock on. This install is very stealth and very impressive...If you don't skimp on the work. Good luck! (Your going to need it if you doing it yourself).

 

Forgot to mention that my amps are in the spare tire well( I have road side assistence so i'm not woried) Get your subs fitted before you by them. Not all subs mount up the same. I used two Kicker Comp VR and they fit VERY well. Better then the JL W3 that i tried to fit. The basket on the Kicker subs are just wider then the JL which equals to less headache. I never skimped on anything when it came to my install. My Z deserves the best that i can do. Best wires, curcuit breakers, Individual in line fuse holders per amp, Yellow top Optima battery, platnum plated battery terminals, feret cap. for my sub amp(1200.1 Kicker KX series amp), and much more. Do for your Z what you would do for your self and you wont be dissapointed.

 

Well, the install is done and WOW, do they pound! The JL W3's did not fit the mounting plate exactly right, so the custom brackets worked very well, combined with the dyno-tape used to seal off the tiny space where air could get through. My friend did his, but he didn't dynomat the entire enclose within and his doesn't sound nearly as crisp and has quite a few rattles. Dynomatting the entire closure and the space between the 2 subs really quiets all rattles and allows the subs to hit hard.

the install took about 2.5 hours, with the amp underneath the passengers seat. I just tapped the rear speakers as opposed to going through the HU since I was told that was a pain in the a$$. I really cannot tell you how good they sound and with 2 of them, I can get the heavier base, without having to shake my back to death coming from just one sub.

As to why i used the JL subs as opposed to others that would fit...I had the JL's and didn't feel like going out and dropping another 500 - 700 bones for new subs when I had perfectly good ones sitting in the garage (I have 2 sets of 8's that I had in my Supra plus this set of 10's, so there was no way that I was going to buy more). The brackets worked perfectly and with the covers, no one sees them anyway. That is just my opinion, but just so you know, the space between the mounting plate and the outer edges of the sub was smaller than a centimeter, so the real issue was just lining up the holes.

 

Congrats on the install, Im planing to do the same. do you have any pics of the install or finished product I would like to see how everything came out. thanks!

 

Wow thanks for the detailed replies guys. It sounds like sealing up the compartment is going to be a b*tch! I wasn't sure if it was as easy as laying dynamat all over everything and calling it a day. Is it possible to put the amps in the compartment with the subs or is this not advisable?

What kind of amp did you get to fit under the passenger seat? Was fit a huge issue? I still have yet to tear open the rear compartment so I guess I'll have a better picture of what you guys did when I do. I'm assuming you had to unbolt both seats to do this kind of work?

 

I didn't unbolt the seats, but the underside of my arms after laying for about 5 hours laying dynomat were totally bruised to $hit. Keep in mind that if you are going to install 2 subs as opposed to one, you will have to do some fabrication of the rear consol where the glove compartment used to be in order to get the plastic cover to fit in. Also keep in mind that if you are only doing one sub, then you will have to seal off the glove box side of the compartment for the enclosure to work correctly...no free air subs, they sound like crap.

With regards to the amp, I would not put it in the same compartment as the subs are pounding...that's just me though. I have a JL Audio 5/100 amp that had more than enough room under the seat to fit.

I have some pics, although they were taken at the end of the install so they aren't as detailed as I would like. I will see if I can get them up.

 

i got so busy working on the car, that i forgot to take the before pics...obviously, we know that the compartments behind the speakers are totally dynomatted...so here are a couple of pics