Best way to add 2 amps and speakers
04-25-2004, 07:39 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Best way to add 2 amps and speakers
I have a G35 with the Bose system. I would like to upgrade the system with a 4 channel amp to power new door speakers and an amp to power may be a 12 or 2 12's.
My question is, what is the best way to get line level signals out of the Bose H/U?
So far I have been told
1. Use top of the line JL amps since they have inputs that can take the Bose head unit signals
2. Use a Matrix that takes the Bose signal and amplifies it to a higher voltage
3. Use line output converters.
I was just wondering which one is the best and what parts are required for this?
Thanks
My question is, what is the best way to get line level signals out of the Bose H/U?
So far I have been told
1. Use top of the line JL amps since they have inputs that can take the Bose head unit signals
2. Use a Matrix that takes the Bose signal and amplifies it to a higher voltage
3. Use line output converters.
I was just wondering which one is the best and what parts are required for this?
Thanks
04-25-2004, 08:20 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Best way to add 2 amps and speakers
I don't know which way is best, but I have used the converters before and it worked out fine. I'm not sure how much voltage the Bose head unit puts out, but make sure that the people that you are talking to know what they are talking about. You don't want to ruin a new amp. Also watch out for the equilization on the Bose H/U.
04-25-2004, 12:45 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BriA5
As I understand it, most of the equalization trickery takes place in the Bose amps, so replacing them should take carre of that (it has for me).
As I understand it, most of the equalization trickery takes place in the Bose amps, so replacing them should take carre of that (it has for me).
04-25-2004, 03:29 PM
#5
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 756
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My installer is incredibly talented. He did my entire system without using any form of converter. Are you going to be doing this install yourself? or are you having it professionally done?
Basically, what he told me about how he did it was the following:
The Bose HU is completely normal (well, sort-of). The HU takes the signals and creates a line-level signal. Then, that signal is sent to another portion of the Bose (the part that does the damage), and that translates the signal to the low level signal that goes to Bose's amplifiers.
He was able to tap into the signal from the HU before it was converted from its original form, and he used that to send to the amps. Voila, line level Bose output. In reality, all the aftermarket converters everyone uses are is an inverse version of the second half of the Bose HU mentioned above. So it just takes the signal and de-converts it to be of a useful form. The method we used in my car uses no conversions, and should, theoretically, be a clean, untouched signal. It seems logical that all the converting and de-converting would cause some loss in SQ, relative to skipping those steps.
I trust my installer highly, and so i was willing to let him do this. I don't know how difficalt this is to do, but I get the impression it is not something to be done by a novice. Let me know if I can further clarify this to make more sense to you. I know I haven't done the best explaination here.
Basically, what he told me about how he did it was the following:
The Bose HU is completely normal (well, sort-of). The HU takes the signals and creates a line-level signal. Then, that signal is sent to another portion of the Bose (the part that does the damage), and that translates the signal to the low level signal that goes to Bose's amplifiers.
He was able to tap into the signal from the HU before it was converted from its original form, and he used that to send to the amps. Voila, line level Bose output. In reality, all the aftermarket converters everyone uses are is an inverse version of the second half of the Bose HU mentioned above. So it just takes the signal and de-converts it to be of a useful form. The method we used in my car uses no conversions, and should, theoretically, be a clean, untouched signal. It seems logical that all the converting and de-converting would cause some loss in SQ, relative to skipping those steps.
I trust my installer highly, and so i was willing to let him do this. I don't know how difficalt this is to do, but I get the impression it is not something to be done by a novice. Let me know if I can further clarify this to make more sense to you. I know I haven't done the best explaination here.
04-25-2004, 03:38 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by BriA5
My installer is incredibly talented. He did my entire system without using any form of converter. Are you going to be doing this install yourself? or are you having it professionally done?
Basically, what he told me about how he did it was the following:
The Bose HU is completely normal (well, sort-of). The HU takes the signals and creates a line-level signal. Then, that signal is sent to another portion of the Bose (the part that does the damage), and that translates the signal to the low level signal that goes to Bose's amplifiers.
He was able to tap into the signal from the HU before it was converted from its original form, and he used that to send to the amps. Voila, line level Bose output. In reality, all the aftermarket converters everyone uses are is an inverse version of the second half of the Bose HU mentioned above. So it just takes the signal and de-converts it to be of a useful form. The method we used in my car uses no conversions, and should, theoretically, be a clean, untouched signal. It seems logical that all the converting and de-converting would cause some loss in SQ, relative to skipping those steps.
What kind of amps do you have?
I trust my installer highly, and so i was willing to let him do this. I don't know how difficalt this is to do, but I get the impression it is not something to be done by a novice. Let me know if I can further clarify this to make more sense to you. I know I haven't done the best explaination here.
My installer is incredibly talented. He did my entire system without using any form of converter. Are you going to be doing this install yourself? or are you having it professionally done?
Basically, what he told me about how he did it was the following:
The Bose HU is completely normal (well, sort-of). The HU takes the signals and creates a line-level signal. Then, that signal is sent to another portion of the Bose (the part that does the damage), and that translates the signal to the low level signal that goes to Bose's amplifiers.
He was able to tap into the signal from the HU before it was converted from its original form, and he used that to send to the amps. Voila, line level Bose output. In reality, all the aftermarket converters everyone uses are is an inverse version of the second half of the Bose HU mentioned above. So it just takes the signal and de-converts it to be of a useful form. The method we used in my car uses no conversions, and should, theoretically, be a clean, untouched signal. It seems logical that all the converting and de-converting would cause some loss in SQ, relative to skipping those steps.
What kind of amps do you have?
I trust my installer highly, and so i was willing to let him do this. I don't know how difficalt this is to do, but I get the impression it is not something to be done by a novice. Let me know if I can further clarify this to make more sense to you. I know I haven't done the best explaination here.
04-25-2004, 04:03 PM
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: NYC
Posts: 756
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am using Diamond Audio D3 amps. Its a new line, that has just come out recently. I had my systen installed in January, and I had the first of the four channel D3 amps to come off of the production line installed in my car before anyone else had one (my installer is very close with Diamond, and they were at his shop the day mine was in there.) The D3's fit perfectly in the glove box where I wanted them to go. I am told they are being built at the same facility that produces Zapco's amps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
