KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Here is that pic, sorry it took so long, the SprintPCS website was down....

From the picture you can't see the wires, but there are three of them coming off of that module. They are all wrapped in black tape.

shift_6x

yeah i thought about grounding the pink wire to see if it opened the trunk, it did, i think the reason i wasn't seeing any change in voltage, because the factory relay is probably closer to the switch giving an output tempoary ground on the switch side, so therefore even if i were to hit the trunk release on the alarm key, it wouldn't read ground unless i was testing between the alarm relay and the switch. anyhow, i found it. i was thinking though, maybe i didn't need a relay, i couldn't test the output amp of the pink wire, but if it is less than 200 ma, then i wouldn't need a relay, but i couldn't read anything from the meter. i put the meter on dc amp and switched the lead over to 300 ma range, and i was reading .88 dc. i don't know what i was doing wrong there, but i just said forget about it, and decided to hook up the relay anyway, i hooked it up, tested it by hitting my new alarm trunk release button and nothing happened. i closed it up for the night and decided to carry on with it today. i shall try again today but im trying to figure out my game plan with the relay wiring.

shift_6x

thanks for the pic

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

You shouldn't use the keyless remote to test the trunk pop wire. Use the actual trunk pop button.

To read current you need to set your meter to DC Amps (like you did) and ground one lead and touch the wire with the other lead. This input does go right to the BCM so you shouldn't need a relay. Shouldn't is the key word, if in doubt use the relay!

Pin 85 - Output from trunk release
Pin 86 - 12V constant
Pin 30 - ground
Pin 87a - NC
pin 87 - Output to pink wire

As always 85 and 86 can be switched without problems

When testing make sure that the relay clicks when you hold the trunk release button down. A lot of AUX channels require you to hold the button down for 2-3 seconds before it will work!

Kevin

shift_6x

wwwwwwwwell,

i think your going to laugh at this one, but i never bothered to ask and i wish i would have. where is the manual trunk release button? i was told by the dealership that the only way you could release your trunk was from the remote..... where is the trunk release button at?

and i think i got pin 30 and 86 backwards, i think that might be my problem there, you are a true life saver. i would be there all night figuring this thing out. anyway, my avantguard 5 module will only take 200ma load. so i don't think that i want to try it, i could put a 1/4 A fuse to a wire from the pink wire, ground it and see if it blows, maybe that will work for testing the current. i did not put my meter in auto-ranging either, i might want to try that one out. thanks alot again, you saved my day.

bastard

On the 350Z, the manual button is in the recessed area where the rear license plate is, right in the center, at the top, between the license plate lights.

shift_6x

wow, this is news to me, im going to go try that out, thanks "bastard"!!!

shift_6x

after looking at the way i wired the relay, i did it correctly according to your diagram kevin. but i still don't get a trunk release from my new alarm even when holding it down for a few seconds. maybe i need to just program the alarm and remote start before i should assume anything. with your experience should i have a signal yet? i fired up the system and tested the proximities and shock sensors, but the trunk release isn't releasing. but i haven't programed my alarm yet, i just thought that clifford would automatically program that part since they have a basic programmed factory setting. anyway, if you can help explain this it would be helpful. in any case i really do appreciate your help with this issue

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Try to measure the output signal by itself to make sure it is going to ground when you hold the button down. I have never seen an alarm that had to be programmed before trunk pop will work, but I'm not familar with Clifford. If the output is going to ground then make sure that the relay is 'clicking.' If the relay doesn't click make sure you have 12volts on the other side of the coil (pins 85 and 86 are the coil).

If you have a ground pulse and 12volts at the same time and the relay doesn't click then the relay is bad. Also, make sure there is no diode across the coil, as this could damage your output (it will polarize the coil and if you hook it up backwards it will fry the output - these relays are for starter kill only).

If your output never goes to ground check the programming and see if there is anything you can change.

If you output is going to ground, and your relay is 'clicking' then check to make sure it is passing the ground when it switches.

Good luck!

Kevin

shift_6x

there is a diode on the relay, not sure if it is on backwards, but the relay came with the diode, so can i take the diode off? will it hurt anything?

thanks kevin.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

(-)--------|___|_|---------(+12VDC)

That is how it should be hooked up - If it is backwards then there is a 99% chance your alarm output is fried - due to the fact that when you turned the output on it would short through the diode directly to 12Vdc. With an output of 200ma it doesn't take much to burn up.

Cut the diode out, as I said before they are only used in starter kill aplications to prevent feedback from colapsing magnetic field from entering the ignition system.

Hopefully the alarm is still under warrenty and you'll be able to have it replaced.

Kevin

shift_6x

wow,

this isn't good news, i am going to go check this out to make sure it is put in the right directioni. i will take the diode off and troubleshoot like you said, i am at work right now, ill check it out this afternoon and let you know what i find.

shift_6x

well kevin.... i think my alarm is fried. this is how it was hooked up.

(+12) ---------l___l_l-----------(signal from clifford)


the first thing i did was read the accessory wire coming from the alarm and it read 12 v. it shouldn't be reading 12v should it? i then clipped the wire from the relay and measured the signal wire again, and it read (0vdc). i tried hitting the trunk release from the transmitter and it wouldn't do anything. this means my alarm is f***** right?

shift_6x

clifford avantgaurd 5

shift_6x

i called the place where i got the alarm from, they senior engineer told me that the relay i have shouldn't have been in there, so he is going to send me a new brain after i send him the jacked up one. i am frustrated...

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

It could have turned out much worse....

Did you hook up window control yet (up and down)? I'm not sure how many outputs you have availible but window controls blow trunk pop away!

Update us when you get the new alarm.

Kevin

shift_6x

yes i will give an update.

i have the right relay set up now, all i have now is hooking up the harnesses and the plugs into the new brain when it gets in, so it will only take a couple of minutes to hook up. ill let you know how it works!!

shift_6x

still waiting on the brain. i hope it works when it gets here.

shift_6x

ITS HERE FINALLY. i just put in the alarm and everything works the way it is supposed to. i programed it on my computer and put it in. thanks to kevin and all who helped out. !!!

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

I like happy endings....