Ok so heres the problem i know jack about car audio.. i have a sub and an amp.....

the sub is an eclipse 12 aluminum SW8122.4

its located here sub info

and an amp.. an alpine MRV-F505 4/3/2 channel v12 expert series.
its located here PDF .Amp Info

will these two work together? what do i hook up where? will it sound decent? what rms will it be on the sub..... i really suck at this stereo stuff i dont under stand it.

 

I'm probably not the best one to answer this, as I'm fairly new to this as well, BUT, I think you need to provide more information. And I think it may be a bit much to expect someone to give you every bit of information necessary to install the system. You're going to have to do some research.

<From this point forward, I'm telling you how I understand it. It does not mean I'm right, and I'm sure someone on the board will correct my mistakes.>

Having said that, in theory, yes the amp will power the sub. Will it sound good? I have no idea. Although, it looks like your amp may not have enough power to satisfy the sub.

Your amp can be set up as a 4 channel, 3 channel or 2. This basically defines how many sets of speakers you want to drive. Since you haven't told us any info. about your other speakers, I'll assume that you want to drive the fronts with this amp as well. So in that case, you'll want to set up the amp for 3 channels. (1 channel for the front left, the other for front right and lastly, 1 channel for the sub.

Your amp comes out of the box set for four channels - named (aptly enough) 1, 2, 3 and 4. Let's say your going to use channels 1 and 2 to drive the front L & R speakers. You then have to bridge channels 3 and 4, to make one channel. You do this to ensure the sub get's both signals for right and left. I've never bridged anything, so this is again only how I understand it from reading around here. It seems that a bridge simply combines the input from the right and left channels to make a 'mono' channel that inherantly comes with a boost in wattage. I don't know if you can build your own bridge, or if you'd have to buy something specific.

Getting back to my comment above about not having enough power. Typically, you want your sub to get it's maximum RMS wattage from your amp. I think your sub can handle 500W, but your amp (when bridged) only puts out 130W. So I'm not saying that it will sound like crap, but you're well under it's max. Nor do I know if you want to set off car alarms when you drive by...

Hope this helps...

 

thanks man you have no idea how much you just helped me lol. ok so i need a separate amp for the sub and i can run all my car speakers off thsi amp.

 

Hey guys. Yeah, broohaha, you're pretty much right. Only thing I would add is about 'bridging'. This is the simple combination of two channels to create one single mono output. This can be done ONLY if your amp claims to be able to handle it. Amps without this capability (read, inferior) will not work right if you try it anyway. There are NO additional components you need to buy / build to do this. Read your amp's owners manual, it'll tell you all about how to do this. The standard rule of thumb is that you double the amp's RMS output by bridging. That assumes the same speaker setup ohm load is used in each instance, ie you go from driving 2 4 ohm speakers to 1 4 ohm speaker. If that didn't make any sense to you, don't worry. It's not really that important. AV630, it's a shame you don't have the dual coil version of this speaker. With that version, this set-up might have worked MUCH better. Since your amp is capable of generating 130W x 2 channels, that makes 260 watts of power going to the speaker. I can tell you that this would sound 500% better than the set-up you've got now. If you can exchange the speaker you have for the dual-coil version, I think you'd be much happier. That way you can at least listen to the set-up without having to add any extra equipment (and $$$!) before you decide what, if anything should change. With regards to the installation of said products, if you are not a skilled installer / mechanic, I would leave this job to the professionals. Truth be told, we drive some expensive cars. Doing this job could potentially void some serious warranties due to the modification of the factory electrical system. My opinion is that unless you REALLY know what you're doing, go to a shop and pay somebody else to do it. That way you get the peace of mind of a warranty on their services to back up their work. My two bits...

 

yeah but i got a really good deal on this stuff... my friend needed to sell it so i bought it for 100 bucks.