headunit wiring harness
Yeah, its the easiest way to wire up a head unit to a car, so you don't have to cut/splice into the factory wires.
There are several companies that make them, and you can easily pick one up at Best Buy, Circuit City, Good Guys, or your local car audio store. Just tell them you need a "wire harness for a Nissan xxxx"
It will look something similar to this:

the white plugs go into your factory plugs, and the bare ends get butt-connected (or soldered and taped) to your new head unit harness.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
There are several companies that make them, and you can easily pick one up at Best Buy, Circuit City, Good Guys, or your local car audio store. Just tell them you need a "wire harness for a Nissan xxxx"
It will look something similar to this:

the white plugs go into your factory plugs, and the bare ends get butt-connected (or soldered and taped) to your new head unit harness.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Mike, are you running RCA's to the amp and then running custom speaker wire to the speakers..or are you using the factory wiring? ANy hi/lo converters? If you do the first, all you will be connecting the head unit to is the power and antenna..the RCA's will carry the rest... Do you have a 9833 V-drive HU? If so it may require a direct battery connect for power if you want to use the internal amp.
Well, if you have the Alpine unit, and the JL amp, and other speaker (sub? components?) , the install is going to be a little more complicated than just plug and play.
Have you ever done an install like this yourself? It might be worth it to see if anyone local can help you out, that has experience.
For the head unit, there is a section of the wire harness for the switched power, constant power, ground, remote amp turn on, etc... Then the other section is for your STOCK speaker wires.
If you are going to run the JL amp for the subs, you'll also need a set of RCA cables to run from the back of the head unit, to the amp. The amp will need its own power/ground (usually larger wire).
The above mentioned Remote Amp Turn On wire will go from the new head unit, to the JL amp. This lets the amp turn on and off with the radio, so it doesn't constantly stay on and drain your battery.
I think we need a little more information as to the setup you're planning, so we can help a little better. So far you have said you have:
Alpine CDA-9827
JL Audio 300/2 amp
Are you planning on running stock interior speakers?
Do you have a subwoofer in mind?
Etc...
Have you ever done an install like this yourself? It might be worth it to see if anyone local can help you out, that has experience.
For the head unit, there is a section of the wire harness for the switched power, constant power, ground, remote amp turn on, etc... Then the other section is for your STOCK speaker wires.
If you are going to run the JL amp for the subs, you'll also need a set of RCA cables to run from the back of the head unit, to the amp. The amp will need its own power/ground (usually larger wire).
The above mentioned Remote Amp Turn On wire will go from the new head unit, to the JL amp. This lets the amp turn on and off with the radio, so it doesn't constantly stay on and drain your battery.
I think we need a little more information as to the setup you're planning, so we can help a little better. So far you have said you have:
Alpine CDA-9827
JL Audio 300/2 amp
Are you planning on running stock interior speakers?
Do you have a subwoofer in mind?
Etc...
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You have decided to go with high quality components, which is good. But, I think as you get further into the install your going to notice the domino effect of things you need to change in the car to accept these items. Like neur0sis said it is a lot of work doing things like: running thick power wire and fusing from the battery to your amps, and pulling out most of the interior panels to run new speaker wire (the factory wire is thin), 3 sets of RCA cables, remote power, sub boxes, soundproofing, etc. etc.
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