WE350Z

Mounted a Infinity Perfect 10 DVC behind the driver seat location, sounds like ***. I need to switch out my amp to power my components anyway, so thinking about doing something different with the sub. Don't want to spend a fortune, and don't want too waste to much space. I am wondering if some standard pre-made, store bought truck 10" sub-enclosures might fit behind the strut tower brace? Will it look or sound like crap? How could I secure the box? I think the tower may wedge the box in place. Haven't had time to measure the area behind the strut tower brace, but Crutchfield has several with bottom depths as low as 8-3/16" and top depths as low as 5-1/8" for under $99.00. In my old '85 300ZX i had a standard Q-Logic 12" hatch box with a 12" Kicker Solobaric DVC facing the hatch glass that hit pretty decently. Any input appreciated!

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-AxYUxDV...arch=enclosure

tractng

iTrader: (9)

WE350Z,

What amp are you using to power the sub? I have a Phoenix Gold R5.0:1 that I am selling for $125 shipped. Basically, its brand new (2 months).


Tony

350vertex

why not get a sub enclosure from ebay?
they fit pretty good

WE350Z

Right now a Rockford Fosgate Punch 200ix (500w mono 4ohm) but I am thinking about getting a Infinity REF5760A 6-channel amp to power everything.

enhanced250

Dont power everything off one amp its a waste of money. Just get a 4 channel and a mono sub amp youll thank yourself because of the sound difference. A guy mike on ebay make reallly nice boxes for 2 10's or 1 10. The truck box will sound VERY punchy because fo the small airspace. As for cheap powerful amp look on ebay mtx alpine phoenix gold etc are all decent amps without going crazy with price hope this helps.

stu46

I wouldn't say that 1 amp for everything is a waste of money. There's a lot of factors that come into play when looking for an amp, like anything else. The major ones are cost, power, size and ohm rating. If all you requirements are met by a single amp, that's fine. Less wires and more space.

ajk4

yes i at first placed a q-logic hatch style 10" box between the strut bar and the seats and while it was a tight fit i was able to get it in and out on track days, plus i mounted my amp on the back of the box with it firing forward. however, taking it in and old so i had a no-name box made for like $40 at a local audio store and removed the spare and put it against the wall where the spare would've been. the box' top matches the height of the wall the its adjacent to and carpeted the trunk to match the black carpet used up front. the truck style wont fit as well as the hatch style (believe it or not) and give a greater mounting depth and volume.

jmaldonado

iTrader: (11)

I have a Q-logic truck box(10") laying on its back in between the strut bar. It was like 60 bucks and it was a good temp. solution...I bought one of those boxes off of ebay, and should have it by tomorrow. The truck box sounds pretty good, but my sub needs more space...and it doesnt look the best either...

dannichols

You won't get much room beneath the trunk liner (only about 6")..most boxes will stick out considerably unless you raise the height or build a custom solution.

CopperZ

For $90-100 i can get sell you a custom fit box for the back strut bar. e-mail me at asetov@yahoo.com

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

what stu said...

and perhaps less noise due to less wires n stuff.

Once you step off the deep end and run more then one amp and have several sets of rcas, you will pull your hair out trying to cut down on road noise.

In my car now there are 7 rcas which equals nightmare.

There is merit in keeping everything simple is the moral of my story.

dannichols

Ahsmo, how far have you gone to reduce Road noise? Have you applied a foam barrier, liquids, or matting? Which ones?

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

there are 3 dynamat bulk packs in my car right now.. before competition I am going to stuff as much poly fill into the extra spaces as possible(doors and such), that is if I go to competition.

dannichols

I have about 1.5 packs in my car and some liquid in the wells. Anyway, there seems to be much room for improvement espacially considering the amount of tire howl I get driving on the freeway. Ripping out the seats and carpet, I noticed there is a lot of area under there that isn't very well insulated for sound. Directly under the seat for instance seems to be just bare metal. But I think too much Dynamat may be overkill considering its weight and the sound muffling quality/weight ratio it has. I was considering using something else over it like Dynaliner???

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

poly fill or studio grade sound deadening panels would be my next move. Dynamat's more expensive stuff costs wayyyyy too much(dynaliner).

In holding 3 bulk packs, it really didnt weight enough to make that much difference to me, If anything it help weight distribution

dannichols

hip me to what you find. I know the Dmat isn't that heavy but it all adds up and I want to use the right product for the right job. I ma happy with the dampening and low vibration qualities of my ride now but just need soundproofing from the wheel howl.

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

I understand that wheel howl, I think we are just going to have to eat that...

WE350Z

So the Q-Logic hatch boxes fit between the strut tower brace and the rear speaker deck? Flat on the floor? Securely? I measured it and it doesn't look like they would to me. Some of the truck boxes seem like they would fit, but would be too small and not provide enough airspace for my sub. The Q-Logic QLH-.6510SE (14H x 14-15/16W x 12-1/2BD x 7-1/2TD) is the smallest 10" hatch box that they make, and Crutchfield reccomends this box for my sub. I am thinking about buying one at Best Buy and seeing if it fits so I can return it if it doesn't. If this fits in the space I may buy it because of it's price. Would it obstruct my rear-view mirror? Why is powering your sub and your components off the same amp bad? I don't want to mount two amps and run extra wires.

Otherwise I have decided on the following:

Current System

HU - Clarion DXZ835MP
Front - Infinity Perfect 6.1 6-1/2" Component System (100W RMS)
Rear - Infinity Kappa 63.5i 6-1/2" 3-Way multielement (75W RMS)
Sub - Infinity Perfect 10 VQ DVC 10" (400W RMS)
Amp - Rockford Fosgate Punch 200ix (450W RMS x 1)

New Additions

Enclosure - 350Z Enclosure on eBay
Amp - Infinity REF610A 6-Channel (56W RMS x 4 + 287W RMS x 1)
Dynamat Extreme
Speaker Wire

Ahsmo

iTrader: (13)

It isnt, its perfectly okay, the amp never knows any different

Those new additions look good to me

WE350Z

Good, I don't want to have to rip everything up again. I should have done it right the first time instead of trying to mount a sub in the space behind the driver's seat. I didn't want to sacrifice cargo area, but it sounds so bad the way it is setup currently. I miss having a loud and clear stereo system that you can feel and sounds good. I wish I could get the JL Stealthbox empty with a cutout for one 10", but oh well. That enclosure looks perfect. What kind of speaker wire should I use for the components in the front? The rears have wire coming from the crossovers already.