Custom amplifer rack
#1
Custom amplifer rack
I'm in the ninth week waiting for my second of two subwoofers to arrive (12 Volt Warehouse) so I have some time to kill while they either send the second subwoofer or respond the my inquires to their State Attorney General.
I've seen some good work here which inspired me. This is a mock upto test fit everything and to make a drill template for the real thing. I'm using a bit of wood for the platform but I really want to use copper plates ... baring the expense of that (about $200) I might just use plain old aluminum (about $40).
In the front there are three tabs to screw into the 10 mm bolt holes from the subwoofer bracket that was removed.
In the rear there are two more to mount to where the driver's side cubby screws would go. I put a tiny very quite fan in there just to get some positive air flow out though the empty stock subwoofer speaker grill. The fan is a "Stealth" brand fan and is whisper quiet.
The two amps are angled a bit again to get the air flowing a bit easier and to make the thing a bit better looking.
When I'm done I'll test fit the thing inside and then tear it apart to use the wood as a template for the metal bases. Wood would work but I think I want the medal for better looks and a bit more heat sink. The thread rod allowed me to mount the amplifers up and down to best fill the limited space within the subwoofer hole.
I also want to see if my hangers are strong enough.
I've seen some good work here which inspired me. This is a mock upto test fit everything and to make a drill template for the real thing. I'm using a bit of wood for the platform but I really want to use copper plates ... baring the expense of that (about $200) I might just use plain old aluminum (about $40).
In the front there are three tabs to screw into the 10 mm bolt holes from the subwoofer bracket that was removed.
In the rear there are two more to mount to where the driver's side cubby screws would go. I put a tiny very quite fan in there just to get some positive air flow out though the empty stock subwoofer speaker grill. The fan is a "Stealth" brand fan and is whisper quiet.
The two amps are angled a bit again to get the air flowing a bit easier and to make the thing a bit better looking.
When I'm done I'll test fit the thing inside and then tear it apart to use the wood as a template for the metal bases. Wood would work but I think I want the medal for better looks and a bit more heat sink. The thread rod allowed me to mount the amplifers up and down to best fill the limited space within the subwoofer hole.
I also want to see if my hangers are strong enough.
Last edited by Paul350Z; 08-21-2005 at 07:04 AM.
#2
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Looks good... I have a similar setup... I have mine made off wood and a 120mm fan blowing towards the cubby opening... I like your setup better and it also looks lighter than mine... Oh yeah on more thing I have are holes... I drilled 1 inch holes all over the base of the amp rack for better airflow and less weight...
#3
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Looks good! Why not leave it like that? Unless you are competing nobody will ever see the trouble you go to using copper or aluminum. I just did a 3/4" MDF shelf for my single amp and ended up cutting out the interior of most of it for air flow rather than dozens of holes for airflow. I basically have a frame for the bottom of my amp to mount it to. It now weighs half as much and is still very strong. I also put brackets on the front edge to bolt to the original holes that held the subwoofer bracket . I'm curious which way you are intending the fan to blow. I am hoping that I will not need a fan with just one amp and the bose speaker cover but we'll see.
#4
The bottom amp is actually sitting about 1/4" above the wood. I like the ideas of cutting a series of holes down there and will break out the hole saw - thanks for the tip.
The tiny fan blows from the rear forward toward the opening of the stock speaker grill. In theory one amplifer alone wouldn't even need a fan but my wife wanted more power to the front and rear speakers so she had me buy another amplifier in addition to the subwoofer one I planned for originally. Just stuffing the two amplifiers in that hole was difficult enough - I wanted to add a bit of dynamic cooling.
I've got to stuff the cap into the corner off to the passenger side of the cubby now. It's going to be a tight fit all around. The cables will have to be long enough to attach with the amp rack pulled out.
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Looks clean... I used a circle cutting bit to cut holes... Hon how do you plan on letting the hot air out??? Are you modifying the stock finisher or do you plan on using the Bose finisher???
#6
Originally Posted by Endless Shock
Looks clean... I used a circle cutting bit to cut holes... Hon how do you plan on letting the hot air out??? Are you modifying the stock finisher or do you plan on using the Bose finisher???
I don't listen loud but do appreciate the extra wattages ability to make the music sound cleaner.
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Paul,
i took your advice and went to the local store to check out the 10" 10VQ inifinity sub for my under strut bar box. they didn't have it in stock, but i did check out the amps. for mono's the REF 311A and REF 611A. and the 4 channel REF 7541. i think i'm pretty much set on an a complete Infinity set-up. i'll be running the 4 channel on either the 6.5" 6010 reference or 60.7 kappa comonents (probably the 6010 references cause i think with the sub they'll provide more than enough mid-highs, don't you think?). i'm still unsure about the single 10' sub and the mono amp i want to use. i know you said the 10VQ's fit really well in the sub box on ebay. i believe you. for a 100 bucks less, are the 10.1 perfect sub just as good? running on the 311A mono amp? if not... will the 311a mono amp provide enough juice for the 10VQ's or is the 611A amp a MUST for such a powerful sub. i've heard both amps and they seem to both give out alot of power. i'm not a big bass head, but do appreciate what they provide. could you please give me some advice?? i'd really appreciate it. thanks...
i took your advice and went to the local store to check out the 10" 10VQ inifinity sub for my under strut bar box. they didn't have it in stock, but i did check out the amps. for mono's the REF 311A and REF 611A. and the 4 channel REF 7541. i think i'm pretty much set on an a complete Infinity set-up. i'll be running the 4 channel on either the 6.5" 6010 reference or 60.7 kappa comonents (probably the 6010 references cause i think with the sub they'll provide more than enough mid-highs, don't you think?). i'm still unsure about the single 10' sub and the mono amp i want to use. i know you said the 10VQ's fit really well in the sub box on ebay. i believe you. for a 100 bucks less, are the 10.1 perfect sub just as good? running on the 311A mono amp? if not... will the 311a mono amp provide enough juice for the 10VQ's or is the 611A amp a MUST for such a powerful sub. i've heard both amps and they seem to both give out alot of power. i'm not a big bass head, but do appreciate what they provide. could you please give me some advice?? i'd really appreciate it. thanks...
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Paul --
Where did you find the brackets for the front and rear supports braces or did you fabricate those yourself? In other words, where might I be able to buy some? Also, what are the dimensions of your shelf support?
Thanks
-meth
Where did you find the brackets for the front and rear supports braces or did you fabricate those yourself? In other words, where might I be able to buy some? Also, what are the dimensions of your shelf support?
Thanks
-meth
#10
Originally Posted by doree610
Paul,
i took your advice and went to the local store to check out the 10" 10VQ inifinity sub for my under strut bar box. they didn't have it in stock, but i did check out the amps. for mono's the REF 311A and REF 611A. and the 4 channel REF 7541. i think i'm pretty much set on an a complete Infinity set-up. i'll be running the 4 channel on either the 6.5" 6010 reference or 60.7 kappa comonents (probably the 6010 references cause i think with the sub they'll provide more than enough mid-highs, don't you think?). i'm still unsure about the single 10' sub and the mono amp i want to use. i know you said the 10VQ's fit really well in the sub box on ebay. i believe you. for a 100 bucks less, are the 10.1 perfect sub just as good? running on the 311A mono amp? if not... will the 311a mono amp provide enough juice for the 10VQ's or is the 611A amp a MUST for such a powerful sub. i've heard both amps and they seem to both give out alot of power. i'm not a big bass head, but do appreciate what they provide. could you please give me some advice?? i'd really appreciate it. thanks...
i took your advice and went to the local store to check out the 10" 10VQ inifinity sub for my under strut bar box. they didn't have it in stock, but i did check out the amps. for mono's the REF 311A and REF 611A. and the 4 channel REF 7541. i think i'm pretty much set on an a complete Infinity set-up. i'll be running the 4 channel on either the 6.5" 6010 reference or 60.7 kappa comonents (probably the 6010 references cause i think with the sub they'll provide more than enough mid-highs, don't you think?). i'm still unsure about the single 10' sub and the mono amp i want to use. i know you said the 10VQ's fit really well in the sub box on ebay. i believe you. for a 100 bucks less, are the 10.1 perfect sub just as good? running on the 311A mono amp? if not... will the 311a mono amp provide enough juice for the 10VQ's or is the 611A amp a MUST for such a powerful sub. i've heard both amps and they seem to both give out alot of power. i'm not a big bass head, but do appreciate what they provide. could you please give me some advice?? i'd really appreciate it. thanks...
Lot's depends on your taste in music and listening habbits. I'm an old fart and listen to old rock-n-roll from the late 60's to early 80's where music was more "honest" than the stuff from the last 15 years. There is less processing and compression done - a kick bass sounds like a kick bass not a elephant landing on your ear drum.
I will be running two 10 VQ's (do you hear that 12 Volt Warehouse TWO!) subs and the 611a wasn't that much more than the 311a in cost. Figure on buying the amplifier once and buying it right - if the thing is too much you can always lower the gain a bit but if you buy too little you're likey to push the thing into clipping to get the levels you want and end up eating your woofer's drivers.
Mid-bass and tweeters have flavors that you can test and enjoy yourself. I actually started my system with the front door speakers finding the ones that I liked the best at a local (and over priced) stereo store. I then bought the rear speakers to sort of match - back behind the seats they're not doing much expect opening the sound up a bit. Once I had four Infinity's I looked and listened hard to the 10 VQ's as a matching set. It was a toss up and I actually offered to 12 Volt Warehouse to spend the extra green and get the JL 10W6V2's but they went and sent me ONE of the TWO subwoofers I ordered.
Dang.
Within reason money is not an object for me - military retirement is nice - but liked the sound of the 10 VQ's in the showroom. What they'll sound stuffed into a proper sized box and then folded into the Nissan is anyone's guess. If I'm not happy I'll pull them out and try the JL Audio's and flog the Infinity's off used for cheap. Subwoofers interact with there enclosures a bunch so the stereo store slopping them in a big old box full of other speakers doesn't help evaluating them.
#11
Originally Posted by methylal
Paul --
Where did you find the brackets for the front and rear supports braces or did you fabricate those yourself? In other words, where might I be able to buy some? Also, what are the dimensions of your shelf support?
Thanks
-meth
Where did you find the brackets for the front and rear supports braces or did you fabricate those yourself? In other words, where might I be able to buy some? Also, what are the dimensions of your shelf support?
Thanks
-meth
Those things are straps made to re-enforce joints in a house in earthquake and huricane country. They also sell flat aluminum of assorted lenghts and widths but I wanted to go with steel as it can be a bit less brittle under movement (bending them into shape). The local Home Depot had a wall display of all sorts of lenghts, shapes, and thicknesses. They were like $1 or so each.
The wooden shelf was 19" wide by 16" deep with a notch cut out for the wheel well. The straps were 10" long in the back and 6" long in the front and I probably could have gotten away with ones half that lenght but wanted the straps to reach well under the shelf for support.
Once I cut the wood I mounted the straps with the 10 mm stock bolts and then placed the wood into the hole bending the front three straps to the correct angle using a level to put a bit of a backwards dip into the board. I then marked the rear straps by measuring downwards to the bubble level and unmounted them for some hammer time in a vice.
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my friend is tellin me the same thing... its better to have more amp power even if its not being pushed all the way, so the amp won't have to work as hard. i guess i was just thinking i won't need all the power from the 611a, so to save some money i was gonna go with the 311a (100bucks less) to push the single 10VQ sub. but thinking long term even into my next car, i guess it'd be better to go with the 611a?
so i'm confused... are you going with the 10VQ's or the JL's?? and one last question, whats the difference from the 10.1dVQ and the 10VQs??? thanks paul...
so i'm confused... are you going with the 10VQ's or the JL's?? and one last question, whats the difference from the 10.1dVQ and the 10VQs??? thanks paul...
#14
Originally Posted by doree610
so i'm confused... are you going with the 10VQ's or the JL's?? and one last question, whats the difference from the 10.1dVQ and the 10VQs??? thanks paul...
I'll post a rant when and if I ever get some service from 12 Volt Warehouse or I just give up and turn the mess over to the PayPal and the Texas State Attorney General. I ordered and paid for the subwoofers back on July 6th and didn't receive the first of two woofers on Thursday last week. I had emailed the company and told them to cancel the order and just give me my money back and I'd buy the JL Audio subs from them.
They did send my amplifiers and front speakers pretty quickly. I just think the place is a ma and pa place. They don't answer their e-mails - going on four business days now. They didn't issue a reciept but I do have the PalPal payment information from PayPal.
Anyways ...
The 10.1d is a dual coil subwoofer with slightly different parameters than the 10.1 which is a single coil sub. I'm going to parallel the two 4 ohm coils to make 2 ohms and then drive each off a seperate set of terminals making a 4 ohm load. The 10VQ needs 6.5 inches of mounting depth and is a different model than the 10.1 which needs just 6 inches.
Both models are VQ - variable Q allowing the same woofer to be tuned to fit three different applications by changing a ferrite plug which changes the motor's strenght and changes the size of the coil's vent.
The terminals of the 10.1 rest up against the side of the cabinet so they have to be mounted sideways in the box. I don't think there's much room if any behind the top edge of the magnet - there might be a whole inch behind the voice coil vent which really isn't ideal.
I spend the night running heavy gauge speaker wires around the interior and getting the amp rack ready to slide into the hole. Looks like another hour or so before I'm not and can start putting the jigsaw puzzle interior back together again.
#16
A side view of the 10.1dVQ sitting in the box. It's up right with the Infinity label reading right and the terminals on the top and bottom are preventing it from seating the last 1/4" - 1/2". I rotated the thing 90 degrees and it dropped in and almost touches the back of the box.
The amp dropped right into place and looks nice. There is just enough room for my arms to get in there to tighten the heck out of everything. The tiny fan runs just fine off the headend's amplifier turn-on circuit as it draws just 60 ma.
I haven't put the whole thing back together yet. I told the wife I forgot how to put the car back together again and asked her to help me load the interior parts into the truck so I could take them to the dealer.
Note the ghetto cool cap hidden away next to the amp. I might hang a cold cathode lamp above the amps to complete the look.
The amp dropped right into place and looks nice. There is just enough room for my arms to get in there to tighten the heck out of everything. The tiny fan runs just fine off the headend's amplifier turn-on circuit as it draws just 60 ma.
I haven't put the whole thing back together yet. I told the wife I forgot how to put the car back together again and asked her to help me load the interior parts into the truck so I could take them to the dealer.
Note the ghetto cool cap hidden away next to the amp. I might hang a cold cathode lamp above the amps to complete the look.
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Originally Posted by doree610
Paul are you sayin the "Infinity" logo on the face of the subwoofer is not read straight across?
#19
Originally Posted by doree610
Paul are you sayin the "Infinity" logo on the face of the subwoofer is not read straight across?
The 10.1dVQ has two voice coils with big terminal blocks on the top and bottom (with the Infinty logo upright). The terminals touch the side of the Zenclosure speaker box when I clamp them down on the speaker wires. The extra 1/8" or so that the speaker wire adds to the terminal causes them to touch the walls - you can't clamp the nut down hard enough to crush the 12 gauge wire down far enough. The wires themselves are not hitting - it's the terminals.
Rotating them sideways works and they sound the same.