another Z done :) Simple, low cost, space saving, sound quality install
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From: san Jose, CA
okay, just finished up another little install on a fellow Z forum members car.
the goal of this system was quite a contrast to the last Z i did, whcih was kinda over board with stuff...
1. relatively low cost on install, similar to an understrut install in terms of cost
2. save as much usable space as possible, compared to an understrut install this set up saves a good half a foot of space
3. good sound quality, not an overwhelming amount of bass but overall very balanced sound
4. clean looking of course
the headunit was supplied by the customer, its an old school pansonic flip out dvd player, quite a pain to connect i might add, a slew of cables going between the brain and the head versus the single cables found on most of the newer flipouts...
a massive JBL power series 4 channel powers the entire hting, good cost, a lot of good and clean power...each front channel sends 125 plus watts to each front speaker, and the sub channel bridged to sell well over 300 watts to the sub.
a pair of DLS ultimate UR6s components were molded into kick panels, and an elemental designs 11kv2 10" subwoofer is out back...also installed a panasonic changer that the customer supplied
first off the dvd player:

next onto the DLS speakers in the molded kicks, covered in black suede
blends in prety well and plenty of clutch clearance.




all the system components, including the amp, the HU brain, and the crossovers are on a platform behind the driver seat, all the wires are run neatly and all the controls are right upfront so you can adjust the amp and crossovers by jusy flipping off the back cover

the panasonic cd changer resides in the storage compartment on the passenger side:

moving on to the back...basicalyl a .5 cub feet box holding the elemetnal desing sub is between the strut and the speaker cover panel, and then trim panels are built...the top piece has a mesh cloth grille over the sub for venting, and some raised vinyl stuff, and a simple back cover conceals the box from teh back...overall the whole thing only takes about 2" or so of understrut space and since there is no rear facing sub, there is no worries of piling and squeezing stuff into the trunk risk damaging the sub or blocking the sound




overall, sounds pretty darn good, center image and high staging as always with Zs and kicks, perhaps the only downside is that this old headunit isnt the cleanest in the world in terms of output, but overall...pretty decent for sure
the goal of this system was quite a contrast to the last Z i did, whcih was kinda over board with stuff...
1. relatively low cost on install, similar to an understrut install in terms of cost
2. save as much usable space as possible, compared to an understrut install this set up saves a good half a foot of space
3. good sound quality, not an overwhelming amount of bass but overall very balanced sound
4. clean looking of course
the headunit was supplied by the customer, its an old school pansonic flip out dvd player, quite a pain to connect i might add, a slew of cables going between the brain and the head versus the single cables found on most of the newer flipouts...
a massive JBL power series 4 channel powers the entire hting, good cost, a lot of good and clean power...each front channel sends 125 plus watts to each front speaker, and the sub channel bridged to sell well over 300 watts to the sub.
a pair of DLS ultimate UR6s components were molded into kick panels, and an elemental designs 11kv2 10" subwoofer is out back...also installed a panasonic changer that the customer supplied

first off the dvd player:

next onto the DLS speakers in the molded kicks, covered in black suede
blends in prety well and plenty of clutch clearance.



all the system components, including the amp, the HU brain, and the crossovers are on a platform behind the driver seat, all the wires are run neatly and all the controls are right upfront so you can adjust the amp and crossovers by jusy flipping off the back cover


the panasonic cd changer resides in the storage compartment on the passenger side:

moving on to the back...basicalyl a .5 cub feet box holding the elemetnal desing sub is between the strut and the speaker cover panel, and then trim panels are built...the top piece has a mesh cloth grille over the sub for venting, and some raised vinyl stuff, and a simple back cover conceals the box from teh back...overall the whole thing only takes about 2" or so of understrut space and since there is no rear facing sub, there is no worries of piling and squeezing stuff into the trunk risk damaging the sub or blocking the sound





overall, sounds pretty darn good, center image and high staging as always with Zs and kicks, perhaps the only downside is that this old headunit isnt the cleanest in the world in terms of output, but overall...pretty decent for sure
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you are kinda far from me
but, i am doing a few set ups and shipping them to toronto for a G35 customer 
a 12" sub would pretty much eat up another 3"s of space belowthe arch, but also need to be a shallow 12 so the top doenst come above the speaker panels
this 10 fit almost perfectly 
b
but, i am doing a few set ups and shipping them to toronto for a G35 customer 
a 12" sub would pretty much eat up another 3"s of space belowthe arch, but also need to be a shallow 12 so the top doenst come above the speaker panels
this 10 fit almost perfectly 
b
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kicks i build for 350 a pair if you provide the speakres, or you can get DLS ultimate spekares from me, which work great in off axis configuation like you see here and i provide a combined discount on the pckage
if you are intersted, PM me 
b
if you are intersted, PM me 
b
Thanks for posting up the install you did for me Bing. As always you have another satisfied customer. The sound quality is simply amazing for just using two kick panels and no rear speakers. The sub has just enough bass and not overwhelming. I still need to make some EQ adjustments to have the sound quality just right. And it only took him three days from start to finish.
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the driver side kick rises up 1.5" from stoc, the passener side rises up .5" from stock...if you take a look at your stock kic, oyu will see taht they arent thick at all
DLS speakers are known for shallow moutning depths, at 2.3 to 2.5" and they have a hybrid neo magnet so the magnet is very small...
as for the deadpedal, well...next week yall should see a kick panel in a Z that retains the deadpedal, but its a lot more cash on the speaker part
b
DLS speakers are known for shallow moutning depths, at 2.3 to 2.5" and they have a hybrid neo magnet so the magnet is very small...

as for the deadpedal, well...next week yall should see a kick panel in a Z that retains the deadpedal, but its a lot more cash on the speaker part

b
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
...if you take a look at your stock kic, oyu will see taht they arent thick at all 

Before

Now:

I need some door pods. I am going between putting the 9ms in the doors with a pod or leaving the 9ms there and getting nazar's pods...
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thats a different design all together 
m kicks are molded off the stock kick panel
yours at least it seems, is molded into the car with a front mold done off the kicks?
how about on the passener side, how did you accomodate for hte stuff behind the kick?

m kicks are molded off the stock kick panel
yours at least it seems, is molded into the car with a front mold done off the kicks?how about on the passener side, how did you accomodate for hte stuff behind the kick?
Originally Posted by 16psibrick
thats a different design all together 
m kicks are molded off the stock kick panel
yours at least it seems, is molded into the car with a front mold done off the kicks?
how about on the passener side, how did you accomodate for hte stuff behind the kick?

m kicks are molded off the stock kick panel
yours at least it seems, is molded into the car with a front mold done off the kicks?how about on the passener side, how did you accomodate for hte stuff behind the kick?

sealed...The first set were pretty much just like yours cept with the 5.25 coaxials pointed up towards the driver.The second set we started with our original molds then cut some material away allowing us to cram the very shallow elite 9s into the space. The newest kick is not sealed by any stretch of imagination however. The passenger side kick is point directly at my head and the driver side kick is angled slightly back. The magnet is very close to some wiring but not touching anything.
I really need to regain my imaging...I have plenty of midbass but hardly any imaging...
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i have used morel (same thing as your elites) and i definetly find the DLS sepakres to be bettter for off axis kicks than the morel...the morel sounds phoenometal off axis
my kicks are sealed pretty much, aother reason why raised it up...when i normally build kicks, to get rid of build up in the 100-200hz range, i put a hole int eh back and have it port into the carpet, sorta like a poor mans AP vent but it relaly does help while completely maintaining the midbass output, on these kicks, what i do is on the back, where hte magnet sorta sticks though the factory kick (i put a hole in it after i fiberglass it), then i put a thick layer of carpet across the opening with slits for wires to pas through, again the idea is simple, to provide a layer of breathable port for the speaker
makes a pretty big difference with and without the carpet interms of midbass output 
in reference to your imaging issue though...i see that yo uhave the mirange in the door, thats is your main issue IMO, the single most determining factor to imaging is not hte midbass or the tweet, but the midrange...thats why most of our mind interprests where hte sound is coming from...so honestly, i would put the midbass into the door with a door pod, and then do the midrange and tweet in the kicks, i think you will find that it will be better
thats how i have always done my three way set ups 
b
my kicks are sealed pretty much, aother reason why raised it up...when i normally build kicks, to get rid of build up in the 100-200hz range, i put a hole int eh back and have it port into the carpet, sorta like a poor mans AP vent but it relaly does help while completely maintaining the midbass output, on these kicks, what i do is on the back, where hte magnet sorta sticks though the factory kick (i put a hole in it after i fiberglass it), then i put a thick layer of carpet across the opening with slits for wires to pas through, again the idea is simple, to provide a layer of breathable port for the speaker
makes a pretty big difference with and without the carpet interms of midbass output 
in reference to your imaging issue though...i see that yo uhave the mirange in the door, thats is your main issue IMO, the single most determining factor to imaging is not hte midbass or the tweet, but the midrange...thats why most of our mind interprests where hte sound is coming from...so honestly, i would put the midbass into the door with a door pod, and then do the midrange and tweet in the kicks, i think you will find that it will be better
thats how i have always done my three way set ups 
b



