New SQ-oriented install coming soon, all components ordered!
#41
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Originally Posted by Ge|atinousFury
Are you saying to just take everything there and tape it up a bit so that there's less slack between the actual connectors?
neatness is always a nice touch, even if you cant see it
#42
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Originally Posted by hoss4131
yeah, i taped mine up just so i didnt have to deal with a big mess of wires, and cramming it all in back there. everything slides in and out like butter
neatness is always a nice touch, even if you cant see it
neatness is always a nice touch, even if you cant see it
I'll get some tape or cable ties and see how compact and neat I can get things.
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Wiring part II has arrived....I ghetto'd it up with vast amounts of electrical tape but managed to compact it pretty good.
Since I want to use the factory ground behind the triple gauge cluster I'll probably need to extend the ground wire some.
Since I want to use the factory ground behind the triple gauge cluster I'll probably need to extend the ground wire some.
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-25-2007 at 07:37 PM.
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there ya go
shoulda cut that giant alpine fuse box off, but its all good
when it comes time to install it all and it slides right in because you dont have to shove any wires anywhere you will be glad you took the extra 20 seconds to clean it up
shoulda cut that giant alpine fuse box off, but its all good
when it comes time to install it all and it slides right in because you dont have to shove any wires anywhere you will be glad you took the extra 20 seconds to clean it up
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New question: Is there a way to remove the stock subwoofer mounting plate behind the drivers seat (you know, the one with the ~10" round hole) easily without removing too many of the interior panels?
As of today I've realized I'll need to mount at least the two Polk crossovers in there, and possibly the H701. I need that bracket gone and I don't want to disassemble most of the interior to get to it.
As of today I've realized I'll need to mount at least the two Polk crossovers in there, and possibly the H701. I need that bracket gone and I don't want to disassemble most of the interior to get to it.
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nah player. you gotta take off all those plastics LOL.
my advise is that you gather a couple of things to do and then you take the plastics off to do all that list of things in one shot. think of it as the pre-prep.
my advise is that you gather a couple of things to do and then you take the plastics off to do all that list of things in one shot. think of it as the pre-prep.
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Originally Posted by 1sentra
nah player. you gotta take off all those plastics LOL.
my advise is that you gather a couple of things to do and then you take the plastics off to do all that list of things in one shot. think of it as the pre-prep.
my advise is that you gather a couple of things to do and then you take the plastics off to do all that list of things in one shot. think of it as the pre-prep.
I really don't want to do all that.....I'll take another look at the mounting bracket and see if there's any way I can make a mounting plate that will fit through that hole.
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I agree. I also believe that as long as the hole gets enlarged one way or the other and the workmanship looks halfway respectable then it's fine with me, seeing as this will be behind a plastic panel anyways.
I just bought a big dremel accessory kit a couple of weeks ago and this is an excellent time to break out the heavy duty cutting blades that came in the kit (way more heavy duty than the normal dremel cutting blades). I can cut pretty much the entire metal part out that's showing once you remove the plastic cover panel. I'll round out the edges to look nice and clean and then I'll take a page from my computer modding days and put a rubber gasket around the exposed metal edge to create a nice finished look.
I'm thinking out loud here but in my head going this route will be a lot better than messing with all those interior panels. I just looked up the guide to removing those panels and have all but refused to go that route.
I just bought a big dremel accessory kit a couple of weeks ago and this is an excellent time to break out the heavy duty cutting blades that came in the kit (way more heavy duty than the normal dremel cutting blades). I can cut pretty much the entire metal part out that's showing once you remove the plastic cover panel. I'll round out the edges to look nice and clean and then I'll take a page from my computer modding days and put a rubber gasket around the exposed metal edge to create a nice finished look.
I'm thinking out loud here but in my head going this route will be a lot better than messing with all those interior panels. I just looked up the guide to removing those panels and have all but refused to go that route.
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-25-2007 at 07:41 PM.
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Originally Posted by 1sentra
so are you scared of removing the panels? or just lazy.
I may change my mind tomorrow for all I know.
Behold the power of Microsoft Paint
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-25-2007 at 08:26 PM.
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For the amp rack that will go in the glove box I just cut out a piece of wood to fit the glove box and then stapled some black automotive carpet on it. To give the PDX amps something more to bite into than just wood I installed some internally threaded rivets into the wood then screwed the amps down into the rivets. When I planned this out on paper I had the amps up at the front of the rack but when I test fitted it I didn't realize the glove box door shut at such a strong angle.....had to move the amps back for the door to have room to close correctly.
The H701 hasn't arrived yet so I don't even know if it's going to fit beside the amps or not. Actually, the issue isn't whether the H701 has room to fit on the rack because I know it will. The issue is whether there'll be enough room between the amps and the H701 for the H701's protuding wires (Ai-Net, optical, etc.). If there isn't room then I'll come up with a way to mount the H701 along with the 2 Polk crossovers in the driver's side compartment.
The H701 hasn't arrived yet so I don't even know if it's going to fit beside the amps or not. Actually, the issue isn't whether the H701 has room to fit on the rack because I know it will. The issue is whether there'll be enough room between the amps and the H701 for the H701's protuding wires (Ai-Net, optical, etc.). If there isn't room then I'll come up with a way to mount the H701 along with the 2 Polk crossovers in the driver's side compartment.
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Originally Posted by 1sentra
make sure the *****/wires etc ends up facing the door of the compartment when mounted, otherwise its going to be a huge pita to tune it
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Originally Posted by T_K
Not to get OT, but how well do the PDX amps perform as opposed to others? They just seem really small for what they do, and seems like heat would be a bit of an issue as opposed to a larger amp with the same power output.
TK
TK
That was one of my concerns until I started reading around on the forums and there were a lot of reports that the amps were staying relatively cool while in operation.
Edit: Found a bit of info from the Alpine website
Power On Demand
A combination of an advanced power supply, Class-D design, and switch-mode digital amplification allow PDX amplifiers to stay extremely efficient at all power levels. This produces less heat, eliminating the need for large heat sinks, just another reason why they can be much more compact than conventional amps.
The PDX amplifiers use Direct FETs device to make switch-mode digital possible. Direct FETs are very small output devices that take up less room and they switch on and off extremely fast when needed. Their ultra high-speed switching capabilities allow them to perform at frequencies that other Class-D amplifiers struggle to reproduce. This provides control over power consumption, and cooler operation.
A combination of an advanced power supply, Class-D design, and switch-mode digital amplification allow PDX amplifiers to stay extremely efficient at all power levels. This produces less heat, eliminating the need for large heat sinks, just another reason why they can be much more compact than conventional amps.
The PDX amplifiers use Direct FETs device to make switch-mode digital possible. Direct FETs are very small output devices that take up less room and they switch on and off extremely fast when needed. Their ultra high-speed switching capabilities allow them to perform at frequencies that other Class-D amplifiers struggle to reproduce. This provides control over power consumption, and cooler operation.
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-26-2007 at 06:31 PM.
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Originally Posted by sirfatty
How are u feeding the wires to the amps in the glove box
The Ai-Net and optical cables will be routed down the center console which is a straight shot into that rear glove box/stock sub location area.
Last edited by Ge|atinousFury; 11-27-2007 at 02:50 PM.