yeah, i taped mine up just so i didnt have to deal with a big mess of wires, and cramming it all in back there. everything slides in and out like butter

neatness is always a nice touch, even if you cant see it

 

No doubt

I'll get some tape or cable ties and see how compact and neat I can get things.

 

Wiring part II has arrived....I ghetto'd it up with vast amounts of electrical tape but managed to compact it pretty good.

Since I want to use the factory ground behind the triple gauge cluster I'll probably need to extend the ground wire some.

 

there ya go

shoulda cut that giant alpine fuse box off, but its all good

when it comes time to install it all and it slides right in because you dont have to shove any wires anywhere you will be glad you took the extra 20 seconds to clean it up

 

BTW damn you for getting the new slim body TR7

 

New question: Is there a way to remove the stock subwoofer mounting plate behind the drivers seat (you know, the one with the ~10" round hole) easily without removing too many of the interior panels?

As of today I've realized I'll need to mount at least the two Polk crossovers in there, and possibly the H701. I need that bracket gone and I don't want to disassemble most of the interior to get to it.

 

nah player. you gotta take off all those plastics LOL.

my advise is that you gather a couple of things to do and then you take the plastics off to do all that list of things in one shot. think of it as the pre-prep.

 

lol NOOOOOOOOOOOO

I really don't want to do all that.....I'll take another look at the mounting bracket and see if there's any way I can make a mounting plate that will fit through that hole.

 

don't take shortcuts man. you'll regret those later.

 

I agree. I also believe that as long as the hole gets enlarged one way or the other and the workmanship looks halfway respectable then it's fine with me, seeing as this will be behind a plastic panel anyways.

I just bought a big dremel accessory kit a couple of weeks ago and this is an excellent time to break out the heavy duty cutting blades that came in the kit (way more heavy duty than the normal dremel cutting blades). I can cut pretty much the entire metal part out that's showing once you remove the plastic cover panel. I'll round out the edges to look nice and clean and then I'll take a page from my computer modding days and put a rubber gasket around the exposed metal edge to create a nice finished look.

I'm thinking out loud here but in my head going this route will be a lot better than messing with all those interior panels. I just looked up the guide to removing those panels and have all but refused to go that route.

 

so are you scared of removing the panels? or just lazy.

 

Neither, just seems to me that cutting out a filleted rectangle and then applying some rubber molding would be a good idea. Dremeling of the hole won't take long at all...applying the molding will take even less time. And I don't have to remove that double-hump beast of a panel and the one below it. Some may feel differently, and that's fine.

I may change my mind tomorrow for all I know.

Behold the power of Microsoft Paint

 

For the amp rack that will go in the glove box I just cut out a piece of wood to fit the glove box and then stapled some black automotive carpet on it. To give the PDX amps something more to bite into than just wood I installed some internally threaded rivets into the wood then screwed the amps down into the rivets. When I planned this out on paper I had the amps up at the front of the rack but when I test fitted it I didn't realize the glove box door shut at such a strong angle.....had to move the amps back for the door to have room to close correctly.

The H701 hasn't arrived yet so I don't even know if it's going to fit beside the amps or not. Actually, the issue isn't whether the H701 has room to fit on the rack because I know it will. The issue is whether there'll be enough room between the amps and the H701 for the H701's protuding wires (Ai-Net, optical, etc.). If there isn't room then I'll come up with a way to mount the H701 along with the 2 Polk crossovers in the driver's side compartment.

 

make sure the *****/wires etc ends up facing the door of the compartment when mounted, otherwise its going to be a huge pita to tune it

 

Yeah I was kind of worried about that but when the amps came in I found that the crossover/etc. adjustment ***** are behind the plates on the front of the amps so the mounting's alright.

 

Not to get OT, but how well do the PDX amps perform as opposed to others? They just seem really small for what they do, and seems like heat would be a bit of an issue as opposed to a larger amp with the same power output.

TK

 

I don't know the gory details but I do know that the PDX are being labeled as "highly efficient" which pretty much means that they can output the same wattage as a lesser efficient amp but do so with less heat generation.

That was one of my concerns until I started reading around on the forums and there were a lot of reports that the amps were staying relatively cool while in operation.




Edit: Found a bit of info from the Alpine website

 

How are u feeding the wires to the amps in the glove box

 

The 2awg power wire will be ran down the passenger side under the carpet by the door sills. From there I'll have to take off the interior side panels and that will expose holes which allow the power wire to be routed straight into the glove box area.

The Ai-Net and optical cables will be routed down the center console which is a straight shot into that rear glove box/stock sub location area.

 

are those same holes on the passanger side. im running the power down the passanger side and my rca's down the driver side or center console not quite sure yet