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VO's Sub Enclosure Makeover Fr3ad In Progress..FI Q series 12" sub..RF power....

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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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looking at the new pics your providing

the raising of the entire floor really won't be as hard as you feel

time consuming, but easy to understand, and easy to execute

your also adding a bit more net interior space to the enclosure by raising sub 3/4" higher out of the box


you may want to use t-nuts and bolt sub in just a thought


take your time , measure twice, cut once , be patient , you can do a very good job


if you want to get crazy and provide even more interior space to the box you can use 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf and raise the entire floor 1.5"


post pics along the way


you can get your T1 reconed by RF i think

Last edited by 350zspl; Jan 4, 2008 at 10:41 AM.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
you can get your T1 reconed by RF i think
Now you tell him
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
looking the new pics your providing

the raising of the entire floor really won't be as hard as you feel

time consuming, but easy to understand, and easy to execute

your also adding a bit more net interior space to the enclosure by raising sub 3/4" higher out of the box


you may want to use t-nuts and bolt sub in just a thought


take your time , measure twice, cut once , be patient , you can do a very good job


if you want to get crazy and provide even more interior space to the box you can use 2 pieces of 3/4" mdf and raise the entire floor 1.5"


post pics along the way


you can get your T1 reconed by RF i think
I'll make sure to take my time.

I'm currently using these T-nuts. They are only 1 1/2" long though. I'm going to have to purchase something longer.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...TOKEN=47605919


I believe I'll keep it at raising it 3/4" only. On the same note, I'd like to increase the inner volume to the max called for by FI. Any ideas on how much polyfill I should add to get the inner airspace up to 1.5 cu ft.?
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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Nice job! Would love to see it in person.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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I just found the speaker fastners I need. They are 2 inches long. I'll place these on order today.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-775

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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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on the 12" FI Q
sealed
.8 to 1.5 net

at 1.25 your there

with rasing your sub 3/4" your even closer to 1.5 net

i really hate polyfill, it is like a band aid for boxes to small, yours aint to small

since your using bolts - t-nuts- you can bolt and unbolt your sub without comprimising the integrity of your box

IMO i would use no polyfill

if after you feel you need polyfill unbolt sub , fill box, rebolt sub

i think your gonna have ideal net space without poly

Last edited by 350zspl; Jan 4, 2008 at 11:14 AM.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cbr900son
Nice job! Would love to see it in person.
Thanks..
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
I just found the speaker fastners I need. They are 2 inches long. I'll place these on order today.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-775


you can take your t-nuts to home depot and buy new 2.5" bolts

they actually sell t-nuts and 2.5" bolts at depot

no need to speacial order from parts express

make sure your only using a t-nut once and the bolts once

sometimes the threads get messed up when used over and over
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
I'll make sure to take my time.

I'm currently using these T-nuts. They are only 1 1/2" long though. I'm going to have to purchase something longer.

I believe I'll keep it at raising it 3/4" only. On the same note, I'd like to increase the inner volume to the max called for by FI. Any ideas on how much polyfill I should add to get the inner airspace up to 1.5 cu ft.?
The 1 1/2" long t-nuts should be good. I don't think you'll need longer screws. if you do, parts express should sell just the screws pretty cheap.

As for polyfill. There really is not accurate measure of saying "1 pound of polyfill will add X-number of cubic feet". It is a good rule of thumb to use 1 pound for every cubic foot of enclosure. If you have 1 cubic foot, then use 1 pound and the sub will 'think' it's in a larger enclosure......will it see a 1.5 cubic foot enclosure? probably pretty close. install it by gluing or stapling to the inside walls (all of them, including the baffle that the sub mounts to) about 2-3" thick (fluffy). It should take a full pound to make this happen in a 1 cubic foot box.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
i really hate polyfill

IMO i would use no polyfill

if after you feel you need polyfill unbolt sub , fill box, rebolt sub

i think your gonna have ideal net space without poly
I'll take your word for it and not use it. You hate polyfill, I hate unbolting the sub...
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Now you tell him
i had no financial gain from my info i provided

i just had a thought about recone

truly the T1 sounds WAY BETTER PORTED

sorry for the late tip
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
you can take your t-nuts to home depot and buy new 2.5" bolts

they actually sell t-nuts and 2.5" bolts at depot

no need to speacial order from parts express

make sure your only using a t-nut once and the bolts once

sometimes the threads get messed up when used over and over
I'll check it out on Saturday when I head up there to purchase the wood.

+1 on the t-nuts. I've had to cut a bolt off once with a Dremmel because the T-nut began spinning. Ruined the OEM mat. I had to buy a new one to the tune of $85.00...
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
The 1 1/2" long t-nuts should be good. I don't think you'll need longer screws. if you do, parts express should sell just the screws pretty cheap.

As for polyfill. There really is not accurate measure of saying "1 pound of polyfill will add X-number of cubic feet". It is a good rule of thumb to use 1 pound for every cubic foot of enclosure. If you have 1 cubic foot, then use 1 pound and the sub will 'think' it's in a larger enclosure......will it see a 1.5 cubic foot enclosure? probably pretty close. install it by gluing or stapling to the inside walls (all of them, including the baffle that the sub mounts to) about 2-3" thick (fluffy). It should take a full pound to make this happen in a 1 cubic foot box.
he will have 1.5" in wood
and maybe another 1/8" in sub height

t-bolts need to go thru the sub, wood , and 1/2 meat threads thru t-nut

2" might work 2.25 " or 2.5" will be ideal

Last edited by 350zspl; Jan 4, 2008 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
As for polyfill. There really is not accurate measure of saying "1 pound of polyfill will add X-number of cubic feet". It is a good rule of thumb to use 1 pound for every cubic foot of enclosure. If you have 1 cubic foot, then use 1 pound and the sub will 'think' it's in a larger enclosure......will it see a 1.5 cubic foot enclosure? probably pretty close. install it by gluing or stapling to the inside walls (all of them, including the baffle that the sub mounts to) about 2-3" thick (fluffy). It should take a full pound to make this happen in a 1 cubic foot box.
Nice! So if I'm interpreting this correct, 1 lb of poly fill is equivalent to around .5 cu ft., give or take a little?
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
he will have 1.5" in wood
and maybe another 3/8" in sub height

t-bolts need to go thru the sub, wood , and 1/2 meat threads thru t-nut

2" might work 2.25 " or 2.5" will be ideal
Oh, the Fi subs have a 3/8" flange? I was unaware of that. I thought it was like most subs where you are bolting through stamped steel (or similar) about 1/8" -1/4" thick.
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zspl
he will have 1.5" in wood
and maybe another 3/8" in sub height

t-bolts need to go thru the sub, wood , and 1/2 meat threads thru t-nut

2" might work 2.25 " or 2.5" will be ideal
Not to mention the 2 factory mats smushed inbetween...
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
I'll check it out on Saturday when I head up there to purchase the wood.

+1 on the t-nuts. I've had to cut a bolt off once with a Dremmel because the T-nut began spinning. Ruined the OEM mat. I had to buy a new one to the tune of $85.00...

i have had 100 spinning t-nuts in my life at least

always keep a 10" extra hacksaw blade , and i have had to cut zillions this way


but if you hammer t-nuts well into box from the inside, and slowly fasten and unfasten bolts it reduces chances of spin

i have found the more i use t-nuts the luckier i get with the outcome
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by StreetOC192
Oh, the Fi subs have a 3/8" flange? I was unaware of that. I thought it was like most subs where you are bolting through stamped steel (or similar) about 1/8" -1/4" thick.

meat to type 1/8 not 3/8 your right 100%
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
Nice! So if I'm interpreting this correct, 1 lb of poly fill is equivalent to around .5 cu ft., give or take a little?
When playing the game of "slowing down sound waves", it's more a matter of how thick the layer is on the walls and how dense you install it rather than the amount you put in. If you have a raw enclosure that is close to 1.5 cu ft, I would try without polyfil as 350zspl says. you can always add it if the sub sounds 'flat'. if your enclosure is closer to 1 cu ft, then I would throw in a pound of polyfil (cheap insurance at $4 a bag at walmart).
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by vo7848
Not to mention the 2 factory mats smushed inbetween...

oc192 is right 2" might be just perfect , but 2.25 or 2.5 will definelty be good
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