RF 10" HX2

 

Not like it would matter bro ... how many Pikes Peak White Z's are out there to begin with? If they want in, they'll get in ... plate or no plate.

I havent read the whole thread yet, but I love what I see so far ... How do you make those custom enclosures? What about heat on those amps?

 

If you have usenet access, go to rec.audio.car ... there are several experts in there who can answer your question. When I put a 15" sub in my Sentra, I went with the sub manufacturers recommended box design. Not that the shape of the sub enclosure matters, but the cubic feet of available air within the enclosure makes a ton of difference. If you don't have enough space within the enclosure, you may need to port it ... but porting it requires tuning the enclosure, and I don't exactly know how to do that. You also might be better off with two 10" instead of one. ALSO, make sure that your sub amp is in phase. Your installer should be able to use equipment to adjust the phase for the ear position of the driver (you). There isn't a lot of air in these cars ... its going to be tricky to get deep bass out of them (especially with 10" subs). I spent $1200 in stereo equipment for my Sentra (installed it myself) that I want to get moved over to the Z ... but there is not enough room in the Z to hold all that stuff (especially the 15" sub woofer) ... I have a buyer for the amps and the sub woofer, as they are only 3 months old now. I want to find a 5 channel amp that will do what I need in the Z.

Anyhoo ... theres my 2 cents.

 

Thanks for the info. Jeff, the installer, and I spent about an hour trying to get the sub to sound right and we just couldn't get it to sound right. It sounds okay at low volume but the higher I turn, the worse the bass sounds. I even went to a different installer, and pretty much everyone is saying thats all you get out of (1) 10" sub. I say thats BS, but hey who am I, I think I am going to take the RF sub back, get my money back, and build a custom enclosure in the tire wheel well, and throw in my RF 12" HX2's that I had in my previous car.

 

That sounds like a really good idea. You might also get better results from a different brand of 10" sub. Have you tried some of the more popular brands like Kicker etc.? They did put Polyfil in that sub enclosure, didnt they?

 

just to let everyone out there know...it is a lot easier than you think to get in your z. i have one...and have broken into it. the whole jimmy'ing from the base of the window...well, that's a pain in the *** and took too long. and, this whole time...it was a professional trying to get into the car. so, i decide to use my brains and take over. all you need is a measly coat hanger. slide it in through the rear of the passenger side window (always break into a car through the passenger side window)...the coat hanger should slide between the ribber seal and the window. then, just press the unlock botton. no alarm went off, no nothing....just "click"....the locks unlocked. so, if you don't have an aftermarket alarm...well, anyone can use a coat hanger and get in your car.

but, nice clean install....i like it!

 

Ok! So if u where too stupid or too young to know how to get into our Zs now you have a f*cking how 2

Great! Now even those dumb as 12 yr olds that would never attept to break into my car will have no prlem b/c thanks to 350z.com they know

1. the factory alarm will not sound
2. DJ says it'seasier than you think !!!!!!!!

 

Well ... breaking into the Z only lets them steal whats in the car (which could be an extreme bummer ... don't get me wrong). But stealing the car itself will be next to impossible I would think.

Besides ... don't kidd yourself ... anyone who is going to break into a car is going to know about the window trick. It was done on Camaros back in the 80s (and probably before that). Any window which does not have a complete frame can be forced open and the doors unlocked. No big secret there.
If the window does have a complete frame, then simply using a T-shirt and the right amount of pressure in the center of the window will shatter it.

 

calm down there pal. i think anyone with a clue would know how to get into this car. i mean, i'm not a pro...and i got in easy as cake! if you use your brain...it's not hard to figure out. i thought the alarm would go off...but that didn't even happen (maybe that's a mistake on nissans part). but, if someone just looks at the cars structure and where the unlock button it...it's not that hard to think of a way to get in.

also, you can't take the car...the engine is disabled without the chip in the key.

man, what an attitude you have. you think i was posting to attract all the theives? you're kidding yourself. what if someone posted a thread "i locked my keys in my car and don't have AAA....how do i get in?". which is not my case...i have AAA and i got in myself. calm down.

 

back to the topic.. It might be your amps.. I have the Kicker res and I had to back off on the gain on my amps casue the highs were unbearable..

.. I'm also powering my 10 inch kicker vr in an enclosed box with a measly 35x4 Alpine amp.. I have two channels bridged to the dual voice cone..

The bass is good but not earth shattering..but I get a nice back massage.. Mainly because of the power.. I figure I'm only getting 150 WATTS max. IF that... but it's clean.. the Amp is over 10 years old..

I went a brought a two channel Crunch amp for cheap of of E-bAY.. It was suppose to crank out 600Watts.. I hooked it up and it sounded like SH**.. I should have known better.. The manufacture gives no specs on distortion or frequency range.. This is very important.. When manufactures give this info then you know what you are working with..

I'd suggest looking at the specs for you amps.. make sure they hit the ranges you want.. a real good bass amp will go down to 20hz and a good amp for highs will hit 20000hz or 20KHZ.. I learned the hard way!


Good luck

 

back to the topic.. It might be your amps.. I have the Kicker res and I had to back off on the gain on my amps casue the highs were unbearable..

.. I'm also powering my 10 inch kicker vr in an enclosed box with a measly 35x4 Alpine amp.. I have two channels bridged to the dual voice cone..

The bass is good but not earth shattering..but I get a nice back massage.. Mainly because of the power.. I figure I'm only getting 150 WATTS max. IF that... but it's clean.. the Amp is over 10 years old..

I went a brought a two channel Crunch amp for cheap of of E-bAY.. It was suppose to crank out 600Watts.. I hooked it up and it sounded like SH**.. I should have known better.. The manufacture gives no specs on distortion or frequency range.. This is very important.. When manufactures give this info then you know what you are working with..

I'd suggest looking at the specs for you amps.. make sure they hit the ranges you want.. a real good bass amp will go down to 20hz and a good amp for highs will hit 20000hz or 20KHZ.. I learned the hard way!


Good luck