orgasm_donor

iTrader: (4)

I would say install was about $2000 complete without any parts. Not too bad considering all the time that went into the tweeter mounts, box, floor and panels.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

looks like someone got a little messy with some E-Dead

VO...

iTrader: (25)

Clean little build. I like it!

350Zrida

That was spectrum http://www.secondskinaudio.com/sound...p?category=121 Im not sure what e dead is, but this stuff is a "paint" on liquid. It came with a thickener. I only wanted the hatch area, but the installer went and did everything. Im happy with what all that stuff does. There arent any rattles or banging noises from the license plate or trunk at all. I hate when somebody rolls by with a system that sounds like an empty coke can with 3 nickels rattling around inside.

BabyZiLLa

iTrader: (7)

When you guys say "bolted to the floor" eg tbe amp rack.. How do you mean exactly? Do you actually drill a bolt through the floor and out the otherside?

I'm always worried about rust drilling into the floor..

orgasm_donor

iTrader: (4)

Well, there are many ways to combat this problem.

1) To pre-drill and primer the hole and use Stainless screws or nuts and bolts
2) Be sure that you have no leaking issues in the trunk
3) Use pre-existing threaded bolts that stick up from the floor and attach the rack or enclosure with brackets.

In my car I used the existing bolts. in most cars I drill through and primer or silicone from the other side. I have never had a single problem with rust. You just have to be smart and creative and take preventative measures to eleviate any future issues regarding rust and/or moisture.

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

^I was actually searching for the answer to the question. Orgasm Donor can you post pics of how it's secured to the floor?

orgasm_donor

iTrader: (4)

My amp rack is not even in my car. It is under construction right now...LOL...

This is a G37 I did last summer. I attached the enclosure using heavy duty strapping that was bolted to the factory trunk bolts that stick up through the floor. Simple 8 mm nuts and washers secured the strapping to the floor and screws attached the strapping to the box. The amp rack was screwed into the enclosure using high tensile drywall-type screws.

This prior to attaching. There are bolts on either side of the enclosure and at the rear of the enclosure. No holes drilled.


Press-fit panels


I rarely take any pictures of how I attach anything to the car as it is a security issue that I don't want to share with would-be thieves.

I did a very rare Buick GNX 2 years ago and by using simple techniques, I was able to not drill a single hole in the entire vehicle. I used custom made retainers placed in good positions to avoid molesting any factory surfaces.

Drop-in system...no screws or bolts to the car. Press-fit and tight as a drum!

Chi-TownWarrior

iTrader: (3)

Reason understood Donor. I'm just looking to see how it's done so I can do some work on mine. Thanks

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

if your unsure.... dont drill


a gas tank isnt cheap to replace



use brackets and go off of factory bolts

BabyZiLLa

iTrader: (7)

orgasm donor. Those installs look really good. Clean yet a bit of show.

Im a first time installer trying to make my own system how i wan't it. When you guys build say an amp rack. You obviouslly need a stand for the rack. It looks like most guys just throw a couple bits of wood on as a base but how does this sit flush on the trunk floor considering i've never seen a trunk floor that is perfectly flat.

I know that may seem like a stupid question.

adamtaylorpcb

iTrader: (7)

easiest way is a base board over all of the humps to make it level


or if you want to get fancy contour like a ****