SUBWOOFER super install w/nizl and pics
10-08-2002, 06:11 PM
#41
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What was the depth avalable for the box, well what were your overall dementions?? I was thinking on puttin it 2 Infinity Perfect 10.1D's and .6 cu" is their optimum volume sealed, 1.3 is a bit too much for both but i were to seperate the subs then it would come out jsut about right....looks great, I am jsut waiting on my car to come so I can start messing with it....I have almost everything I am goign to put in sitting here waiting for the car to come
10-08-2002, 08:37 PM
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rpgonzalez, There is a much better way to route the power cable from the battery compartment... if you take off the plastic surrounding the battery area, you will see a bubble grommet with stock wires going into it. cut a hole and pass through there - its super easy. From there, its possible to get to the rear compartment area without making holes.. it took me all of 30 minutes!
As for the stock sub location. I think it sounds pretty good. I have a 10w6v2 in there and it slams much better than expected. it is hard to seal though, so if you dont know what you are doing, just make a box and put it in the trunk. In retrospect, I probably would have saved the 2 days labor and just made a box to fill the area behind the hump, in front of the rear strut brace. That space is useless anyway.
rpgonzalez, I was also wondering why you spliced off of the rear speaker like that.. did you think to do it at the head unit? It would have been a lot easier! You could have gotten the soundgate that has a volume control **** on it then and placed it in/under the dash somewhere.
As for the stock sub location. I think it sounds pretty good. I have a 10w6v2 in there and it slams much better than expected. it is hard to seal though, so if you dont know what you are doing, just make a box and put it in the trunk. In retrospect, I probably would have saved the 2 days labor and just made a box to fill the area behind the hump, in front of the rear strut brace. That space is useless anyway.
rpgonzalez, I was also wondering why you spliced off of the rear speaker like that.. did you think to do it at the head unit? It would have been a lot easier! You could have gotten the soundgate that has a volume control **** on it then and placed it in/under the dash somewhere.
10-09-2002, 06:06 AM
#43
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Quick question for nizl or rpgonzalez or anyone else that has done a custom sound job in the 350Z: where did you ground the amp, and do you have any alternator whine?
10-09-2002, 07:10 AM
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Originally posted by Subw00er
rpgonzalez, I was also wondering why you spliced off of the rear speaker like that.. did you think to do it at the head unit? It would have been a lot easier! You could have gotten the soundgate that has a volume control **** on it then and placed it in/under the dash somewhere.
rpgonzalez, I was also wondering why you spliced off of the rear speaker like that.. did you think to do it at the head unit? It would have been a lot easier! You could have gotten the soundgate that has a volume control **** on it then and placed it in/under the dash somewhere.
Also, my fader is now the sub control so I dont have to mess with any **** under the dash of even worse in plain sight.
As far as the power routing, I was convinced that the stock wires went behind the dash, and I dont want any red wires hanging down THEN going under the carpet.
10-09-2002, 08:19 AM
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Originally posted by Zoro
aren't you concerned about the weight you've added to your car with the mdf? by the time you get the cover panel made and installed you'll have over a sheet of it in there.
aren't you concerned about the weight you've added to your car with the mdf? by the time you get the cover panel made and installed you'll have over a sheet of it in there.
10-09-2002, 08:36 AM
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Looks good, just ONE comment.
You could have taken a ziz wheel and cut the spare tire bump out. Then the sub could have been centered. With how you have it NOW the sub reflects sound off the plastic of the hatch. If you blast it off the glass its 2x louder. Ive tried it haha.
Other then that......looks great. Congrats!
You could have taken a ziz wheel and cut the spare tire bump out. Then the sub could have been centered. With how you have it NOW the sub reflects sound off the plastic of the hatch. If you blast it off the glass its 2x louder. Ive tried it haha.
Other then that......looks great. Congrats!
10-09-2002, 04:02 PM
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I've just run wires through the car and I know that its easier to get to behind the radio then taking half the inside apart. It was just a suggestion. It is super easy to run wires along the side of the center area to the rear and there are stellar holes in the unibody for passing of wires. You could have also disconnected the rears at the radio too. I didnt realize you were still using them.
For everyone else, definitely use the stock grommet for the power wire, its super clean to pass a wire down hrough there and it does not involve taking the dash apart at all. The power wire will not be visible.
For everyone else, definitely use the stock grommet for the power wire, its super clean to pass a wire down hrough there and it does not involve taking the dash apart at all. The power wire will not be visible.
Originally posted by rpgonzalez
why would removing the stereo and running wires all the way to the back be easier? I had to disconnect the rear speakers anyway...if there is anything worse than rear sound stage, its crappy rear sound stage.
Also, my fader is now the sub control so I dont have to mess with any **** under the dash of even worse in plain sight.
As far as the power routing, I was convinced that the stock wires went behind the dash, and I dont want any red wires hanging down THEN going under the carpet.
why would removing the stereo and running wires all the way to the back be easier? I had to disconnect the rear speakers anyway...if there is anything worse than rear sound stage, its crappy rear sound stage.
Also, my fader is now the sub control so I dont have to mess with any **** under the dash of even worse in plain sight.
As far as the power routing, I was convinced that the stock wires went behind the dash, and I dont want any red wires hanging down THEN going under the carpet.
10-18-2002, 12:59 PM
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I have a stupid question for those of you that have mounted your subs in the spare tire location: Given the limited storage in the car already...what happens when you actually have to use the storage? Ie a couple small suitcases etc.? How is the sub protected, and what happens to your sound? I'm not opposed to mounting mine in there either...but am weighing my options. Mounting it in the original location leaves the storage space open...but what is the "real" impact or comparison of sound from one install to the other? Has anyone had the opportunity to listen to both types of installs?
10-18-2002, 03:56 PM
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Originally posted by MSGarrett1
Quick question for nizl or rpgonzalez or anyone else that has done a custom sound job in the 350Z: where did you ground the amp, and do you have any alternator whine?
Quick question for nizl or rpgonzalez or anyone else that has done a custom sound job in the 350Z: where did you ground the amp, and do you have any alternator whine?
THen I drilled a hole in the body, just under the glove box, where I mounted my amp, removed the paint and grounded it there. Still had the whine.
Next, I used a step-down converter to go from high level to RCA level inputs and the whine disappeared.
10-18-2002, 05:58 PM
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well. I ran the amp for a sub woofer, so I dont think I would have gotten a whine....either way....no whine... Make sure the power cable are no where near your inputs!
10-19-2002, 09:31 AM
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Originally posted by Driven
I have a stupid question for those of you that have mounted your subs in the spare tire location: Given the limited storage in the car already...what happens when you actually have to use the storage? Ie a couple small suitcases etc.? How is the sub protected, and what happens to your sound?
I have a stupid question for those of you that have mounted your subs in the spare tire location: Given the limited storage in the car already...what happens when you actually have to use the storage? Ie a couple small suitcases etc.? How is the sub protected, and what happens to your sound?
Your sound will suffer slightly, but the wavelengths produced by subs are so long that generally they'll pass thru solid stuff pretty easily.
10-19-2002, 08:51 PM
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Originally posted by nizl
20x28x6 roughly
20x28x6 roughly
I will remove the other box, with 10inch in the stock sub location, and either convert it to a storage, or maybe for amp mount.
Last edited by Apexi350z; 10-19-2002 at 08:56 PM.
10-20-2002, 08:11 AM
#56
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This was a 10W3, and it barely fits, so yeah the 12 would have to be deeper.
Rob is probably going to upgrade from a 10W3 to an IDQ12, which is roughly the same depth as his 10W3.
4 hrs start to finish is pretty good... it took us a while longer because we were so indecisive about how to orient the sub, etc.
Rob is probably going to upgrade from a 10W3 to an IDQ12, which is roughly the same depth as his 10W3.
4 hrs start to finish is pretty good... it took us a while longer because we were so indecisive about how to orient the sub, etc.
10-20-2002, 08:24 AM
#57
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ahh, okay. yeah, 10w3 would fit fine. Mine is higher about 2" so I need to build a false floor. Still need to work on the trim around the box, and amp.
10-20-2002, 09:22 AM
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I ran 5/8" board and had the floor about 7 1/2" high (roughly). Sure didnt take 4 hrs though haha.
Start to finish from making the box, installin the wiring and the false floor was about 2hrs. Box took 25min tops. Now wiring my touchscreen tv was a different story. That took forever
Start to finish from making the box, installin the wiring and the false floor was about 2hrs. Box took 25min tops. Now wiring my touchscreen tv was a different story. That took forever
10-20-2002, 09:50 AM
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the MDF was just 1/8" shy of 3/4". The total height was 6 " Only the bottom MDF board takes space, the speaker rests on the top board so we can count that. The final depth available comes out to be 5.612" and the 10W3 is 5.812, so I was off by about a quarter of an inch. We could NOT make the box over this height though cuz I demand that everything be flush. So I made an MDF ring that gave me 3/4" inch more heigh. Perfect!
BTW....If you guys want some really good advice about the W3...Id say you should skip it and buy an Adire Shiva. Online only...and they are universally accepted by people who have compared this speaker to a W3 that it is a better speaker. Not only only does it get rave reviews, but you can buy it for $125 shipped from online source!
BTW....If you guys want some really good advice about the W3...Id say you should skip it and buy an Adire Shiva. Online only...and they are universally accepted by people who have compared this speaker to a W3 that it is a better speaker. Not only only does it get rave reviews, but you can buy it for $125 shipped from online source!
12-08-2002, 02:10 AM
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done.
notes:
-the speaker sounds better under the strutbar
-taking the battery out is best for the power routing
-taping off of speaker lead is no different that taping behind stereo
-I do not recommend the W3, it is very boomy...adire shiva!
-the stock head unit makes sub and speaker sound like crap. I recommend doing the HU too!
notes:
-the speaker sounds better under the strutbar
-taking the battery out is best for the power routing
-taping off of speaker lead is no different that taping behind stereo
-I do not recommend the W3, it is very boomy...adire shiva!
-the stock head unit makes sub and speaker sound like crap. I recommend doing the HU too!