Step-By- Step Instructions on Replacing OEM Battery With An Optima Yellow Top...
Thread Starter
Administrator
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 58,609
Likes: 2,747
From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by SuperBlack350z
Nice guide but one thing i would like to add Vo. You don't have to buy those shims. The terminals fit on the optima perfect. There is even more room to tighten if you want to go super tight. I saw that you had to hammer in your terminals. Not sure if that's something you want to do.
The hammer part wasn't bad, it was more like a "love tap" with a rubber mallet. The battery is pretty rugged. It'll survive.
Originally Posted by vo7848
I'm not sure if the OEM terminals on the 2003 model have a slightly larger circumfrence than other models. I tried without the shims first. It did tighten, but I could wiggle the terminials loose.
The hammer part wasn't bad, it was more like a "love tap" with a rubber mallet. The battery is pretty rugged. It'll survive.
The hammer part wasn't bad, it was more like a "love tap" with a rubber mallet. The battery is pretty rugged. It'll survive.
ahh, i thought you were hammering hard. Seem like it would be hard to take off with your bare hands. I guess not.
Originally Posted by k1653d
How come all the pictures I see of the D35 has the positive on the left side?
Here is the picture from the place you said to buy it:
Here is the picture from the place you said to buy it:
Originally Posted by vo7848
One last thing you'll have to purchase are battery shims. They're under $2.00 and you can find them at any autoparts store. The shims are made of lead and placed over the battery's terminal post to make them thicker. The Yellow Top's post are just a hair slimmer than the OEM's post.
Thread Starter
Administrator
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 58,609
Likes: 2,747
From: Down Under & Dirty
Originally Posted by dkmesa350z
I looked at 2 Autozones and a Napa and none had them. And when I asked one of their dumbass employees they all acted like I was an insane
Just wanted to give a big THANKS to VO for this thread. My battery gave up the ghost on me this weekend and I ended up getting the Optima D35 battery at Autozone and changing it in for the old one. These instructions were a huge help...made it fast and easy...took me only 20 mins. A big 
for VO.
for VO.
Or you can just get this and have sears put it in for free...
* Longer off-season storage time - show cars & classic cars
* Ideal for luxury vehicles with multiple electronic accessories
* Plates made of 99.99% pure virgin lead
* High purity grade acid held safely in place by glass mats; non-spillable design
* Absorbed Glass Mat construction provides mounting flexibility & guarantees longer service life
* 4-Year Free Replacement; 100-Month Prorated Limited Warranty
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...tive+Batteries
Power Ratings:
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 740
Reserve Capacity (RC): 100 min.
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 59
Warranties & Coverage:
Months in Use Free Replacement: 48
Months in Use Pro Rated Replacement: 100
Temperate Zone: North or South
* Longer off-season storage time - show cars & classic cars
* Ideal for luxury vehicles with multiple electronic accessories
* Plates made of 99.99% pure virgin lead
* High purity grade acid held safely in place by glass mats; non-spillable design
* Absorbed Glass Mat construction provides mounting flexibility & guarantees longer service life
* 4-Year Free Replacement; 100-Month Prorated Limited Warranty
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...tive+Batteries
Power Ratings:
Cold Cranking Amps (CCA at 0 deg.F): 740
Reserve Capacity (RC): 100 min.
Amp Hours at 20 Hour Rate: 59
Warranties & Coverage:
Months in Use Free Replacement: 48
Months in Use Pro Rated Replacement: 100
Temperate Zone: North or South
Partstrain - got the Optima D35 for $156 shipped with a coupon code, my car was towed last week after a breakin and when they ran the flashers it discharged my crap battery a killed it.
Also lowcostbattieries.com seems to be offline
Also lowcostbattieries.com seems to be offline
Just replaced my battery this morning with a Yellow Top. This thread made it so simple. A little bit different than the G, just slightly. But this was extremely helpful. Thanks Vo for taking the time to write it up with pics and everything....U Da Man! :-)
Thread Starter
Administrator
iTrader: (25)
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 58,609
Likes: 2,747
From: Down Under & Dirty
My battery finally dies on me after 4 years. It won't hold a charge anymore. Time for a new one...
I am going to install one of these and would use this very helpful DIY. Can I confirm one thing:
When removing the battery I remove the negative terminal first. That is very clear.
But when installing, I install the negative before the positive?
When removing the battery I remove the negative terminal first. That is very clear.
But when installing, I install the negative before the positive?
Next we have to tie down the terminals to the battery. This will take a little patience so don't rush it. We start off by placing the battery in the cubby hole. After this is done, get some old T-shirts and wedge them in between the battery and the cubby hole sidewalls. We do this because chances are you're going to drop a nut down into the cubby hole. If you don't have the T-shirts there to stop it, it'll fall under the battery platform. You don't want this to happen because you'll have to remove the battery and bottom platform to retrieve the lost nut/fastener.
Place the shims on the terminal post, then start by fastening the negative terminal 1st. I had to use a rubber mallet to beat the terminals down, on account of the fit being so tight. I suppose you could use a hammer, but you might risk damaging the soft lead post.
For the positive terminal, I needed to get the terminal wedged down futher onto to battery's post. The way I accomplished this was by placing a 22mm socket on top of the post and using the mallet to wedge it down. The last picture shows how far I was able to wedge the positive terminal down.
Place the shims on the terminal post, then start by fastening the negative terminal 1st. I had to use a rubber mallet to beat the terminals down, on account of the fit being so tight. I suppose you could use a hammer, but you might risk damaging the soft lead post.
For the positive terminal, I needed to get the terminal wedged down futher onto to battery's post. The way I accomplished this was by placing a 22mm socket on top of the post and using the mallet to wedge it down. The last picture shows how far I was able to wedge the positive terminal down.
thanks for the great write up and i got a question for you. What battery do you recommend or what is the best if you can think of any other product. if this is the best one then i will buy one for myself because i really need one asap. Thanks again for your help.
