Very nicely done and professional! I have heard horror stories at one of my local best buys of them trying to install one of these viper systems w/ the remote start on manuals and they actually banned doing it on manual transmission cars now. One of the installers remote started an s2000 and the car drove away and side swiped into several other cars.

Stuff like that worries me and if the person has never worked on a Z before, I wouldn't even let them touch my car.

 

Yea man, it is a pain and I think most retail chains (i.e. Best Buy) are just lazy when compared to more local car shops

 

Hey fakejojo, great write up man! I am currently installing a 5902 and ran into a problem. I can't get the passenger side dash out like you did. There is a screw on the top of the card holder that I can't get to because I cant get the card holder out. How did you do this?

 

Another question. Instead of splicing the starter wire to connect into H3 starter output, you instead connected that wire from H3 starter output to the clutch wire to bypass the clutch?

 

Recently my remote start has stopped working. When I try to use it, the starter turns over, but the car doesn't start. If I stick the key in though and start it manually, it fires right up.
Anybody have any ideas??

 

I would check the bypass module. Most of them have an LED that lights green when remote starting and it's sending the bypass code via CAN BUS wires So check for that light when remote starting. What bypass do you have? Also check the CAN Bus wires that are Pink and Blue, see if the bypass module is still connected. These wires are located at the kickpanel, I believe fakejojo has a picture of it on the first page.

 

All the newer Dei units except avital are programmable for manual or automatic transmissions. To install in Manual mode you have to enter in a sequence to ensure that the vehicle is left in neutral to prevent such a problem from happening.

 

Plus you can use the neutral safety switch at ECU to stop the car from starting if not in neutral.

 

nvm

 

I hate to bump up old threads but I just had to give you the props you deserve for writing this DIY.

 

Thanks! If you guys need anything still PM me!

 

effin great post man.. !!!!

 

Oh yea for everyone that has an 2006 and above that has trouble removing the Coin Change Box to get the huge cover piece on the Passengers side off...

I broke a tab in my quest to remove it! It was soo hard to get off that It just happened...

That's just my story!

 

you know which wire that is?

 

That wire is from the ECU (Under Passenger Side Dash)

It is Terminal 102 of the ECU and is Brown/Yellow in color

 

awesome writeup, I'm gonna practice some soldering soon

 

I got the alarm install professionally but my uauto start only l works sometime and when I bring it it back to check up, they said the installation is fine , and saying I have a bad batteries because upon starting the battery voltage drop to 8 volts. So its pretty much when I use the car for a while then auto start works but when the car sit outside overnight thenon cold auto start, it crank but would not start. Anyone here got a solution for me? Thanks in advance!

 

Thanks again for the write up fakejojo, even though I never got any replies to the differences in the 03 models, I figured it out through the service manual, various links, and a voltage meter. I wouldn't have done it without you. Actually, I shouldn't type as if I succeeded. But I almost did.. LOL. Although I'm still thankful for all the effort and time he spent.

I (tried) installed one today in my 03 350Z and had everything working fine; automatic windows up and down, doors, hood, and trunk triggers, trunk release, tilt, shock, and audio sensors (not sure if they work, but for the sake of argument), and all the basic arm/disarm features. The only thing I couldn't get to work was the remote start. I looked at the wires behind the clutch, and I wired them wrong, or so I thought. After I thought I fixed it due to bad wiring issues, tried programming again, and nothing. Even now I still get confused reading the wiring sheet for method 2 wiring. I was reprogramming it to start based on the instructions mentioned at the very end, but I was skeptical since it was being changed from default (which is for manual transmissions) to automatic. Well, at one point, I tried to turn the key to the on position while it was about to crank/start, and the honk turned on and wouldn't stop. It was a constant horn, no intervals. Even after I turned on the car and pressed every button possible, not until I pulled the honk fuse in the engine bay. Put it back in and kept honking so took it out and left it out. Then I sat in my car stumped about what just happened, and then all of the sudden my windows went down without me pushing anything. Then I tried to roll them up with my remote and nothing.. I was pissed at this point. The horn eventually stopped, although would turn on when I would try to arm it with my factory alarm. All the triggers still worked though. Oh and it would start to make the sound cars make when you leave the key in the ignition and have the drivers door open, but the key wasn't in the ignition. I unplugged everything, and everything factory works fine, except for it didn't turn on, which I later found out is because I have the starter wire behind the clutch cut and so I have to keep the H3 Remote start harness plugged in. I also found out that it does all that weird crap when I have the 18 pin harness plugged in. I'm hoping I didn't fry anything and that it's a memory thing. I've called DEI to see if the warranty covers it, and I'm currently waiting for a response after having sent them a receipt. Could someone chime in and help me out?

I'm going to try this in the morning:

KPierson: "If I'm not mistaken the clutch switch is inline with the starter wire from the key switch. Meaning, if you just connect the starter output of the remote start to the starter side of the clutch switch you won't need to do anything else.

Bypassing the clutch interlock, when done properly, isn't unsafe and is the only way to remote start a 6mt. This, of course, assumes you are using a remote start that is designed for a manual tranny or that you are using the OEM P/NP switch correctly."

Which is some info from another thread and see what happens




Ps. I'm not typing this to blame anyone. fakejojo seems like he knows his ****, and even got an approval from KPierson, whom i've heard has quite a reputation. I soldered everything, and i'm fairly good with following instructions, despite this mishap. I'm simply looking for a solution other than having to replace the main unite.

 

Ok so i tried plugging everything back in with the ignitionin the position and the honking and key sense problem went away. So now im where i was at the beggining with the exceptiopn of the windows not working with the remote so im going to open the door and check for faulty wiring

 

I ended up going with method 1 to be able to get remote start to work. I'm still having problems with the windows rolling up or down. Checked for faulty wiring but everything seems to be intact and wired correctly. I don't get it, the comfort closure feature works. I programmed it to roll up when I lock it and it works. So why won't the aux 3 and 4 channels work? Hmm..