fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, I know that this question has been asked over and over by many members on the forum, so I have finally completed a full installation guide for the Viper 5901 2-Way Remote Start/Alarm.

I am by no means a certified expert, however I feel that I am extremely competent with electronics and wiring. However I will not be responsible for any damage that is caused to your personal vehicle. That said, this installation is not too hard, it is just time consuming.

I have installed this on my 2006 Nissan 350z Touring, so the years 2003 and 2007/2008 have small variations in the wiring colors. You will not know if there are actually differences until you start the wiring of you personal alarm. The only thing that may differ are just a few wire colors, however I am sure the Pin Numbers will be the same on the connectors.

Each individual harness will have an its own Wiring Guide Attachment file that will accompany in each harnesses in their individual posts.

I will break up the different harnesses needed in this installation within a different post for each. Pictures will accompany almost each wire to that needs to be installed.

Please download the correct Wiring Guide for each harness and use to along with the pictures to help with your installation.

If I any experts think that I have done anything wrong, please feel free to correct me!

Enjoy!

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

These are the necessary materials needed for the installation of the Viper 5901 Alarm System.

Before you start the installation of this alarm, read this attachment and extend the following wires that I have listed for each of the Harnesses.

Also, you should learn to solder efficiently because T-Taps and other connectors have a possibility of degrading over time

Viper 5901 Unboxed


Main Units


Main Harnesses


Secondary Harnesses


Siren/Neutral Safety Switch


Remote Charger/Hood Pin


DEI XK07 Bypass Module


XK Loader 2


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

DEI 513T Mini Piezo Siren


DEI 507M Tilt Sensor


DEI 506T Glass Break Audio Sensor


DEI 504M Double Guard Shock Sensors
(Picture to be taken)

Quick Installation Guide/Reference Guide (This is your best friend for the installation)


BCM Connector Pin Numbers (Refer to this for all of you BCM Connections if you get confused. Remember to read this as the back of the connector, the side that the wires are going into the connector and not from the side that connects to the BCM)

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

2004-2006 Nissan 350z Wiring Guide


The 2003, 2007-2008 Nissan 350z may a few differences in the wiring guide, just post here or PM me if you see any differences with your particular year.

The needed wires are Bold or Colored/Bold in the following attachment.

Please be able to locate the BCM (Body Control Module) and the ECU before you start wiring.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

This is the mounting and wiring of the Viper 5901 Siren

First is to locate the Battery Cap



Second is to remove all of the clamps that holds the plastic trim around the battery cap and also the plastic of the window, so that it is possible to access the grommet and the grounding/siren mounting bolts


Third is to remove the grounding bolt shown here and to mount the siren facing downwards, so that water does not gather in it. Also ground the Black Siren wire here at the same bolt


Fourth is to locate the Grommet that leads the wires through the firewall and into the passenger foot well


Fifth, using a razor blade, make a small incision into this grommet and then feed the Red Wire of the Viper 5901 Siren through the grommet and into the passenger foot well. I used a chopstick and taped the wire onto and and basically just pushed it all the way through the grommet

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

DEI XK07 Wiring Harness

DEI XK07 Bypass Module


First is to make sure that this module is programmed with the correct firmware.
The Nissan 350z Firmware is PKN3 4.02. If it is not correct, you can feel free to PM me, so that you can mail me your XK07 Module and I will use my XK Loader 2 to load the correct firmware on it.

Second is to remove the Driver's Side long door sill trim and then to remove the Driver's Side kick panel (There are many different DIYs that already tell you how to remove interior panels)

Third is to locate the BCM


Fourth is to start splicing into wires as listed in the DEI XK07 Wiring Guide I have created. All of the wires that are needed to be spliced into are located on the 40-Pin White Connector of the BCM.
PLEASE SOLDER all of your connections, so that they do not get loose. DO NOT Twist and tape your connections.


Fifth is to mount the DEI XK07 Next to the BCM


Sixth is to find the D2D Wire that is included with the XK07 Bypass Module, and extend every wire, so that it is long enough to be routed into the Passenger Side foot well.

Seventh is to connect up the XK07 Harness and also the D2D Harness to the XK07 Module

Also remember to use Spiral Wrap around the wires for the Clean Factory Look as shown above. I have not yet wrapped my BCM 40-Pin Connector up yet because I am still taking pictures for the DIY

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Before beginning the wiring of the Viper 5901 H1 Harness, please extend the necessary wires as stated in necessary materials post above. This will save u a lot of head ache.

First step is to locate:
1. BCM
2. Engine Bay Grommet that leads into the Passenger Foot Well

BCM


Engine Bay Grommet


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Second Step is to remove the next set of interior panels:
1. Remove the Driver's Side Knee Pad
2. Remove the Passenger's Side Knee Pad
3. Remove the Passenger's Side Lower Dash Panel (the piece with the card holder)
4. Remove the Shift Know and AC Control Piece
5. Remove the Passenger Side Long Door Sill Trim
6. Remove the Passenger Side Kick Panel

Third is to split up the wires of the H1 Harness into two groups:
1. The group going to the BCM and Center Console Area (Red/White, Blue, Green, and White)
2. The Group going to the engine bay (Red, Brown, Black)
Note: All of the other wires that are not being used were routed with the Red, Brown, and Black Wires and basically just taped to them because they have not been extended and were much shorter. These can be easily hidden when they are spiral wrapped.

After you have isolated these wires, I bundled them together with a few spots of tape, just to keep them together.

Fourth is to run the H1 Harness from behind the radio as shown below


This picture is obviously much later in the wiring process, but it basically shows the wiring route of the Harnesses. They should be routed out basically in the same area on the Driver's side as well. Do not worry about hiding the wires yet, just wire them up straight through the Driver's side foot well. After all the wiring is done, you can Spiral Wrap everything and I will post pictures of the route of my wires.

Fifth is to locate the necessary wires on the BCM and splice into them:

Trunk Release Output


Passenger Side Door Trigger


Driver's Side Door Trigger


Parking Lights - This is the Red/Blue Wire


Sixth, after you have located each wire and removed the outer coating on a part of each wire, it is time to solder the correct H1 Harness Wires to the 350z Wires as listed in the attachment below.
Note:
1. Passenger Side Door Trigger - Wire a 3 Amp diode inline of this connection with the stripe facing towards the BCM (This prevents the Driver's and Passenger's Door from interfering with each other because they share the same Green wire of the H1 Harness)
2. Driver's Side Door Trigger - Wire a 3 Amp diode inline of this connection with the stripe facing towards the BCM (This prevents the Driver's and Passenger's Door from interfering with each other because they share the same Green wire of the H1 Harness)
3. Parking Lights - Wire a 3 Amp diode inline of this connection with the stripe facing towards the Red/Blue Wire - This is for the future when I decide to add the Left/Right turn signals for the flashing lights and thus prevent them from interfering with any other light sources
4. The Green wire needs an additional wire added to it to make a double connection because it is connected to both the Driver's Door Trigger and the Passenger Door Trigger

SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER

Seventh, after you have soldered all connections, Use high quality 3M Electrical tape to tape up the wires.
Note: The Blue Wire, will be connected to the additional sensors later in the installation.

Eighth is to now take the other H1 Harness Wires (Red, Brown, Black) and get them connected up.
1. The Brown wire is to soldered to the Siren's Red Wire that you originally ran through the engine bay grommet
2. The Red and Black Wires need to be ran into the engine bay from the Passenger foot well. I did this by taping them to a chopstick and pushing the chopstick through the grommet and into the passenger side.

Ninth is to Solder/Clamp a loop connector tip to the Red Wire and then connect it to the battery of the vehicle


Tenth is the Ground the Black Wire in the same spot as the Siren Mount/Grounding Bolt


Eleventh step is to not wrap up all of the wires in the engine bay together with spiral wrapping to make it clean and then install your engine trim back together. You are now done with the engine bay of the installation.
Note: I did however include the Grey Hood Pin Wire of the H2 Harness within the spiral wrapping. So wait until you have routed that wire to actually reassemble the engine pieces


Don't worry about wrapping up the H1 Harness wires going to the BCM yet with spiral wrapping because they can be combined with the Door Lock Harness to create an even cleaner look.

Now move onto the Viper 5901 H2 Harness

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Viper 5901 H2 Harness

Before the wiring of this harness, please already have extended the wires as listed above in the necessary materials section of the H2 Harness.

First is to split up the wires into two different groups:
1. Wires going to Driver's Side (White/Violet, Brown/Black, Dark Blue, Brown, Black/White)
2. Wires staying in Passenger Side/Engine Bay (Violet/White, Grey)

Second is to then spiral wrap all the wires together until the point where the actual wires that are being used have been extended. Make sure you label the extended wires with labels, so that after they are wrapped up, you do not get confused on what wires are what.

Third is to remove/loosen a few more interior trim pieces:
1. Driver's Side Lower Dash - Just take out the screws and then pull it down and let it hang. There is no need to remove it completely
2. Upper and Lower trim pieces around the steering column

Fourth is to now locate the wires needed for this installation:

Fuel Filler Button
It is the connector going into the back of the fuel filler button
THIS IS BY FAR my favorite feature. I can cause my fuel door to open the a push of a button the Viper 5901 Remote. This is hilarious when you show your friends and family. Is it necessary, NO, but it is too cool to pass up.




Horn Honk Output Wire
This wire is located directly under the steering wheel. You will see two connectors touch each other (Yellow and Grey) It is on the Grey One


Tachometer Input Wire
I personally soldered on an extension wire to the ECU Fuel Injector Wire first and then used that wire to connect to the H2 Harness


Key Sense Wire


Hood Pin Wire (I used the actual Hood Pin of the 350z and thus there was no need for hood pin included) - This does not actually need to be hooked up
**Picture Coming - I have to go under my car and remove the under body front trim to take a picture...and I am lazy/working right now!!!**

Brake Lights Wire
This wire is located behind/above the brake pedal


Parking Brake Wire for the Neutral Safety Input
This is under the center console and is the only plug near the parking brake setup and it only has a single wire


Fifth: Now that you have located your wires, you need to route the wires in the same place as the H1 Harness was routed. Below is a reminder picture
As you can see the wires enter behind the radio on the passenger side and they come out the same place on the driver's side. The Violet/White Wire that are staying in the passenger well, can be routed upwards into the passenger side dash and connected with the fuel injector wire extension you created


Sixth is to route the H2 Harness Grey Wire into the engine bay via a chopstick and through the grommet

Seventh is to SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER your connections together and then use either heat shrink if joining two wires together or high quality 3M electrical tape if splicing into the wire.

You are now finished with the Viper 5901 H2 Harness, now move onto the Viper 5901 H3 Harness

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Viper 5901 H3 Harness

Before beginning the installation of the H3 Harness, make sure you have extended the wires listed in the Materials Needed Post

First is to locate the Ignition Switch connector. It is on the left side, behind the steering wheel after you have removed the upper and lower steering column trim.


Second is to unplug the switch and strip away the wire wrapping






Third is to now strip a section of the wiring coating for EACH of the ignition wires. HOWEVER there is a dilemma here if your vehicle is a Manual Transmission.
If you have a Automatic Transmission, continue with the stripping of each wire, if you have a Manual Transmission, the clutch switch must be bypassed because the starter loop is only complete if the clutch switch is down, so you must decide between one of two the following steps to bypass this switch.

1. You can continue stripping the wires as you would if you had an Automatic Transmission, but you have to locate the clutch switch behind the clutch pedal and thread a closed head bolt onto the threads of the button. This keeps the clutch switch button always depressed and thus the starter loop circuit is always complete. I know that this may sound like a safety hazard because this means you can start your car now without the clutch pressed in with your key, so you have to be CONSTANTLY aware that you have done this and not leave your car in gear.


2. Method two is to strip every wire in the ignition harness EXCEPT the White/Red Wire (Starter Wire), but to locate the Manual Transmission Starter Wire, which is basically a wire that is behind the clutch switch and does not rely on the clutch switch button needing to be depressed to complete the circuit. This wire is located after the clutch switch harness and is Grey/Red. Refer to diagram below to understand.




Remember choose one of these methods, I chose Step number 2, which led to a lot of headaches because of the small space the manual transmission starter wire is located (Grey/Red).

If anyone wants to debate the first method, feel free to chime in on the Positives and Negatives of that step.

Fourth is to cut the Starter 1 Wire in half (White/Red for Automatic Transmissions and Method 1 of Manual Transmissions) or (Grey/Red for Method 2 of Manual Transmissions)

Fifth is to route the Viper 5901 H3 Harness from the Passenger Foot Well behind the radio and out the same place as the H1 Harness and H2 Harness. The route the H3 Harness Wires under the steering column, but above the other Connector wires already on the steering column. If you chose the Manual Transmission Starter Wire, you must route the Green and Violet wires down towards the clutch pedal.

Sixth is connecting of the H3 Harness Wires to the Ignition Switch Wires and/or Manual Transmission Starter Wire. Pay particular attention to the Starter Wire you have cut in half and make sure that the H3 Harness Violet Wire is wired to the side where the Starter/Car is. The Green Wire must be wired to the side towards the Key Side.

Also route a secondary Wire from the Black/Red Ignition 1 Wire down towards the BCM. This will be used to attach the orange wire from the XK07 Bypass Module to the Ignition 1 of the 350z.

The Green Wire of the Ignition Switch Harness will have three wires of the H3 Harness hooked to it (Red/White, Red, Red/Black).

Remember to SOLDER these connections and then tape them up and 3M electrical tape.

Now you are finished with the Viper 5901 H3 Harness, move onto the Viper 5901 Door Lock Harness

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Viper 5901 Door Lock Harness

Remember to Extend these wires before starting.

First, locate the Driver's Side Door Handle/Window Switch


Second is to pop up the door handle with a flat head screw driver (BE CAREFUL) and locate the white door lock switch


Third is to splice into the Lock/Unlock Wires
1. Light Blue - Unlock
2. Black/Red - Lock

Fourth is to Solder the Door Lock Harness Wires to the correct 350z Wire.

Fifth is to remove the door panel, so that you can route the Door Lock Wires into the Cabin of the 350z (This is REALLY HARD)

Sixth is after the wires are routed into the cabin of the 350z, spiral wrap them up with the H1 Harness Wires and route them towards the Passenger's Side Foot Well.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

DEI 507M Tilt Sensor and DEI 513T Mini Piezo Siren

DEI 507M Tilt Sensor

Remember to extend the Blue and Red Wires of the Tilt Sensor

First step is to lift up the Center Console and Mount the Tilt Sensor Near the back with 3M Double Sided Foam Tape and Zip Ties


Second Step is to Wire up the Orange Wire to the Parking Brake


Third Step is to wire up the Blue and Red Wires to the H1 Harness Wires as indicated in the Attachment Below

DEI Mini Piezo Siren

First is to splice into the Brown Siren Wire of the H1 Harness.


Second is the mount the Mini Piezo Siren - I did this via Zip Ties facing downwards into the 350z Cabin (I was lazy so I used Zip Ties)


Third is to find the Interior Grounding Bolt and then attach the Black wire of the Mini Piezo Siren (Sometimes it is Black/Red) to this grounding Bolt


Fourth is the solder the Red Wire of the Mini Piezo Siren to the Brown Siren Wire and then Tape it up with Electrical Tape

You are now done

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

DEI 506T Glass Break Audio Sensor






DEI 504M Double Guard Shock Sensors

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Viper 5901 Main Unit Mounting and also Antenna Mounting

I mounted the Viper 5901 Main Unit behind the Passenger's Side Dash Board Cover. When you remove that piece of plastic, you will see a rectangular size metal place with 2 bolts holding it in place. I removed the piece and placed the Viper 5901 Main Unit onto it. I had the break off 2 of the tabs on the bottom of the Main Unit to make it fit. I also drilled two holes into the Metal Plate at where the two existing screw holes on the Viper 5901 Main Unit were, so that I could Zip Tie it for extra security. I used 3M Double Sided foam tape to attach the unit to the metal plate and also some electrical tape as a "Just In Case"



After mounting the Viper 5901 Main Unit to the Metal Place, remove the fuse polarity cap and change the the fuse to the Positive (+) two lower holes.


After I replaced the cap onto the Main Unit, I Mounted the Antenna onto the Cap of the Viper 5901 Main Unit (I did not want to see the Antenna, so that it is a Stealth Look)
via 3M Double Foam Tape





After all the Units are mounted, connect all of the wiring harnesses to the Main Unit and now you have to change a few of the default features of the Viper 5901 Main Unit via the Valet Switch on the Viper 5901 Antenna.

The features that need to be changed are as followed:
1. Change the transmission from the default Manual Transmission to Automatic Transmission (Menu 3, Item 1)
2. Change the Ignition 2 feature to Starter 2 (Menu 3, Item 8)

The above features are changed via the following steps:
1. Open a door
2. Stick the key into the ignition and turn it to the on position
3. Turn the key to the off position and remove it from the ignition barrel
4. Press and hold the Menu Button on the Antenna until you hear 3 Chirps (1 Chrip Indicates Menu 1, 2 Chirps for Menu 2, 3 Chirps for Menu 3)
5. Release the Menu Button on the Antenna
6. Press the Menu Button the number of times corresponding to the feature wanted to be changed (1 Time for Transmission, 8 Times for Ignition 2/Starter 2)
7. PRESS the button ONE MORE TIME and HOLD the button
8. Use the Viper 5901 Remote Control to program the feature - Lock Button Selects the feature in Ascending Order, Unlock Button Selects the feature in Descending Order
Transmission needs to be ascended one level, so press the Lock Button Once: Starter 2 needs to be ascended 2 levels, so press the Lock Button Twice
***Use the Quick Reference Installation Guide if you have any trouble***

Now test your new alarm!

sdZ33

iTrader: (39)

Very nice write up!... You went all out on the security... Thank you for posting!

mw9

iTrader: (51)

+1, nice job. Are you alot of differences on an 03. I have an 03 touring

duro78

iTrader: (6)

I commend you but for most people this is a bad idea to even attempt.

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Haha thanks guys, I will post the small difference between the 03 wiring, which are small in a little bit haha

CRIDDA

iTrader: (10)

Very nice write up. Anyone who has never done this or work like this, I would hire someone

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

I agree with this decision, however if you are feeling brave and have a whole weekend that you can leave your car in the garage, this would be a great project.

I did this install myself just because I knew the work that I could do and that it would be clean and perfect, unlike some of the horror stories you hear from other shops.

CRIDDA

iTrader: (10)

I will be doing mine as well(use to do this as a side job). I have also seen some crazy **** leave the shop at CC when I worked there, that I don't even know how the car started(all the harness wires left exposed, not even a quick wrap with electrical tape)

fakejojo

iTrader: (1)

Yea man, exactly! I made sure my lines were completely wrapped up before reattaching my interior panels

Plus, Im pretty sure that those shops do not solder their connections to the splicing wires and if they are lazy, they probably did the twist and tape method!