BOSE tape deck aux cord install
12-02-2018, 11:57 PM
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BOSE tape deck aux cord install
Hey guys! This is my first post on the forum hope you enjoy!
1. First thing you want to do is remove the shift ****, and then the shifter dash, the manual transmission dash is easier to remove than the auto. For the stick drivers out there, just put your fingers wrapped inside the shift boot facing towards the back of the car, and pull up and backwards with slight force and it should pop out. Be weary of the cables attached for the AC controls, because that slip-up could cause a major headache or a $400 expense
.
2. After pulling that out, I have to use a flat head screwdriver to unplug the AC control wire, but your mileage may very, you might be able to pull yours out with just your hands.
3. There are four dark grey screws exposed after taking out the shifter dash, two of which you need to remove to gain access to the stereo. The two on top are the ones you need to remove, the other two go to the part of the dash your e-brake and cup holder cubby thing are attached to, those you can leave in place. The next set of screws you need to remove are going to be under the stereo next to the AC control box (its the grey box that the white wire is attached to that plugs into your shifter dash), there will be four. Two go to the AC controller box, two go to the stereo mounting plates. I always take out the AC controller box after removing these screws (Three clipped wires on the back of it), but you could leave it in if you wanted to, just be extra careful! After those screws are removed, you can move up to the cubby below the gauges. Once you open it up, just pull back on the liner and it should pop out, after that two small black screws will be exposed that holds in a cover, so remove all of those. I suggest at this point a magnetic screwdriver or put some sticky stuff on your phillips bit because the next set of screws are inside the dash, there will be two of them.
4. The next step is to pull out the waterfall dash, but not very far. There will be a connector behind the top where the gauges plug in, and when pulling this out I recommend pulling from behind the gauges, then unplugging the connector. After its unplugged, you can pull the dash farther and unplug the stereo! I had to use pliers to unplug the power because it was wedged into the stereo and was impossible to unplug by hand, but my stereo clip cables came out no issue with my hands.
5. After the waterfall dash is completely removed I suggest taking it to a workbench or inside to work from there. There will be four screws on either side of the stereo that need to be removed and then the stereo can be removed from the dash piece. After removed, you can take off the stereo mounting brackets that are held on by 8 screws, 4 on either side, and don't worry about mixing them up, the can only be put on one way and have a L and R on them to tell which side goes on which. After those are removed, I suggest removing the front plate that has all the buttons on it so there's no possibility of scratching it, its just held on by six clips, four on either side and one large one on top and bottom. After the front plate is removed, go ahead and find the smallest screwdriver you have to remove the tiny screws all along the top, three on the back, and two on the front that will be exposed when the front plate is removed, and the top metal should un-clip out.
6. Other tutorials say to take out the tape deck part of the stereo, which I highly suggest against, because it is highly likely to be damaged. All you need to do at this point is locate the L R and G pins on the board which are exposed by taking of the top metal, wire your aux port respectively (Red cable = R White cable = L Green or unsheathed cable = G ). Strip your aux cord being careful not to ruin the unsheathed cable if it is unsheathed, then solder the wires to their respective pin on the board. I suggest removing the old solder on the board and applying your own new solder because with the age of the boards, sometimes the solder can cause a cold solder or bad connection points on the board which would cause it not to work, which stinks!
7. After soldering, all you have to do is run the wire through the hole that is already lined up on the top metal by factory, put the top metal back on, tape down the cable so it has no chance of movement so it can't be ruined by normal use, then put everything back together!
8. This part is up to you where you want the aux cord to come out of or if you just want to plug it into a bluetooth connector and leave it behind the dash, but find where you want it and run the wire. I personally ran mine to the empty slot in between the two heated seat switches and drilled a 1/4 hole for the aux port, then installed a rubber grommet to make it look factory. I used to just use a regular aux cord plugged into that aux port, but as of late the i-phones, sadly, don't have an aux port on them, so I bought a cheap bluetooth receiver from Walmart that works out the same as the cord. I also have a phone charging cable run in the same spot, phone cable hole is on top, aux port is on bottom of the empty switch, both run through grommets. I removed the factory 12V power from the rear and routed it inside the dash to hide the cables for my phone charger. Another good spot is inside the rear cubby, I see a lot of z guys run the cable inside the top cubby on the waterfall dash, but I don't like having mine open while I drive for some reason and also did not want to drill a hole in it
.
9. Since you didn't remove the tape deck and cut the traces and take the springs out, you have full functionality of the tape deck, as well as the least chance of damage. All you need to do now is get an empty or old tape deck to remove everything out of, then slide it in and plug your phone in to listen to some bumpin music!
10. Optional step, since you're already messing with your stereo and dash, you could paint some of your scratched up dash bits because I know all of us z guys have em, as well as re-soldering the capacitor on the sub mini-amp behind the drivers seat to make sure your bumps don't stop! All you need to do for that is remove the rear sub interior piece held in by clips, then unbolt the sub, four 10mm bolts, then unbolt the amp, two 10mm bolts, then unplug the amp, pry it apart, re-solder the grey top cap, five connectors, or completely replace it with a new one, then put it all back together!
LINKS:
YouTube instructional video: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC51...0urTgGqJgWv9A?
Empty cassette tape: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-90-Mi...Pack/150457524
Pinned aux port: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/158...saAkvWEALw_wcB
Rubber grommet for aux port: https://www.aussieglobe.com/1-14-Uni...gaAslDEALw_wcB
Rubber grommet for aux cord or charging cable: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=14150&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxZPgBRCmARIsAOrTHSaTYiF4Rn 2Sj8R14uNtG1CmvBHAngdjg291EEucZw5fcyB7D_1CQHYaAinNEALw_wcB
Aux to bluetooth without power needed: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Bluetooth-Adapter-Audio-Receiver/133857082?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3284&adid =22222222227145096557&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=253520396868&wl4= aud-566049426705
la-609224749152&wl5=1026658&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035 &wl11=local&wl12=133857082&wl13=3284&veh=sem
New capacitor for the sub:
I hope this helps some of you out hoping to have an aux input while maintaining the factory look inside the vehicle! If any of you have any questions just let me know and I'll see if I can help you out
1. First thing you want to do is remove the shift ****, and then the shifter dash, the manual transmission dash is easier to remove than the auto. For the stick drivers out there, just put your fingers wrapped inside the shift boot facing towards the back of the car, and pull up and backwards with slight force and it should pop out. Be weary of the cables attached for the AC controls, because that slip-up could cause a major headache or a $400 expense
.2. After pulling that out, I have to use a flat head screwdriver to unplug the AC control wire, but your mileage may very, you might be able to pull yours out with just your hands.
3. There are four dark grey screws exposed after taking out the shifter dash, two of which you need to remove to gain access to the stereo. The two on top are the ones you need to remove, the other two go to the part of the dash your e-brake and cup holder cubby thing are attached to, those you can leave in place. The next set of screws you need to remove are going to be under the stereo next to the AC control box (its the grey box that the white wire is attached to that plugs into your shifter dash), there will be four. Two go to the AC controller box, two go to the stereo mounting plates. I always take out the AC controller box after removing these screws (Three clipped wires on the back of it), but you could leave it in if you wanted to, just be extra careful
! After those screws are removed, you can move up to the cubby below the gauges. Once you open it up, just pull back on the liner and it should pop out, after that two small black screws will be exposed that holds in a cover, so remove all of those. I suggest at this point a magnetic screwdriver or put some sticky stuff on your phillips bit because the next set of screws are inside the dash, there will be two of them.4. The next step is to pull out the waterfall dash, but not very far. There will be a connector behind the top where the gauges plug in, and when pulling this out I recommend pulling from behind the gauges, then unplugging the connector. After its unplugged, you can pull the dash farther and unplug the stereo! I had to use pliers to unplug the power because it was wedged into the stereo and was impossible to unplug by hand, but my stereo clip cables came out no issue with my hands.
5. After the waterfall dash is completely removed I suggest taking it to a workbench or inside to work from there. There will be four screws on either side of the stereo that need to be removed and then the stereo can be removed from the dash piece. After removed, you can take off the stereo mounting brackets that are held on by 8 screws, 4 on either side, and don't worry about mixing them up, the can only be put on one way and have a L and R on them to tell which side goes on which. After those are removed, I suggest removing the front plate that has all the buttons on it so there's no possibility of scratching it, its just held on by six clips, four on either side and one large one on top and bottom. After the front plate is removed, go ahead and find the smallest screwdriver you have to remove the tiny screws all along the top, three on the back, and two on the front that will be exposed when the front plate is removed, and the top metal should un-clip out.
6. Other tutorials say to take out the tape deck part of the stereo, which I highly suggest against, because it is highly likely to be damaged. All you need to do at this point is locate the L R and G pins on the board which are exposed by taking of the top metal, wire your aux port respectively (Red cable = R White cable = L Green or unsheathed cable = G ). Strip your aux cord being careful not to ruin the unsheathed cable if it is unsheathed, then solder the wires to their respective pin on the board. I suggest removing the old solder on the board and applying your own new solder because with the age of the boards, sometimes the solder can cause a cold solder or bad connection points on the board which would cause it not to work, which stinks!
7. After soldering, all you have to do is run the wire through the hole that is already lined up on the top metal by factory, put the top metal back on, tape down the cable so it has no chance of movement so it can't be ruined by normal use, then put everything back together!
8. This part is up to you where you want the aux cord to come out of or if you just want to plug it into a bluetooth connector and leave it behind the dash, but find where you want it and run the wire. I personally ran mine to the empty slot in between the two heated seat switches and drilled a 1/4 hole for the aux port, then installed a rubber grommet to make it look factory. I used to just use a regular aux cord plugged into that aux port, but as of late the i-phones, sadly, don't have an aux port on them, so I bought a cheap bluetooth receiver from Walmart that works out the same as the cord. I also have a phone charging cable run in the same spot, phone cable hole is on top, aux port is on bottom of the empty switch, both run through grommets. I removed the factory 12V power from the rear and routed it inside the dash to hide the cables for my phone charger. Another good spot is inside the rear cubby, I see a lot of z guys run the cable inside the top cubby on the waterfall dash, but I don't like having mine open while I drive for some reason and also did not want to drill a hole in it
.9. Since you didn't remove the tape deck and cut the traces and take the springs out, you have full functionality of the tape deck, as well as the least chance of damage. All you need to do now is get an empty or old tape deck to remove everything out of, then slide it in and plug your phone in to listen to some bumpin music!
10. Optional step, since you're already messing with your stereo and dash, you could paint some of your scratched up dash bits because I know all of us z guys have em, as well as re-soldering the capacitor on the sub mini-amp behind the drivers seat to make sure your bumps don't stop! All you need to do for that is remove the rear sub interior piece held in by clips, then unbolt the sub, four 10mm bolts, then unbolt the amp, two 10mm bolts, then unplug the amp, pry it apart, re-solder the grey top cap, five connectors, or completely replace it with a new one, then put it all back together!
LINKS:
YouTube instructional video: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC51...0urTgGqJgWv9A?
Empty cassette tape: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Onn-90-Mi...Pack/150457524
Pinned aux port: https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/158...saAkvWEALw_wcB
Rubber grommet for aux port: https://www.aussieglobe.com/1-14-Uni...gaAslDEALw_wcB
Rubber grommet for aux cord or charging cable: https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=14150&gclid=Cj0KCQiAxZPgBRCmARIsAOrTHSaTYiF4Rn 2Sj8R14uNtG1CmvBHAngdjg291EEucZw5fcyB7D_1CQHYaAinNEALw_wcB
Aux to bluetooth without power needed: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Monster-Bluetooth-Adapter-Audio-Receiver/133857082?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=3284&adid =22222222227145096557&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=253520396868&wl4= aud-566049426705
la-609224749152&wl5=1026658&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035 &wl11=local&wl12=133857082&wl13=3284&veh=semNew capacitor for the sub:
I hope this helps some of you out hoping to have an aux input while maintaining the factory look inside the vehicle! If any of you have any questions just let me know and I'll see if I can help you out
Last edited by DGHook; 12-03-2018 at 01:06 AM.
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