lionking

I had aquestion on another thread about rev limit. Was wondering if everyone's limit is 6600. I always knew my needle went into the red so I just went out and re-tested to see if mine was higher. Yep. The needle bounces between 7000 and 6800 during fuel cut out.

Just a stock tourer / auto. Oh yea, and it's silver, and we all know colour makes a difference.

Is anyone else gettin these revs? Or is it just because I've pounded the limiter that much that it got shoved back a bit?

LK

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

This may be because you have a 'silver' auto. Because an auto is slower, nissan may have made it stay in gear longer by reving higher to make it quicker. So when you shift your starting higher up the power band.

But the power drops off a long way before this so reving that high without some mods could be useless.

ottonove

I'll go and chack later. as I will be heading out soon

Z350Lover

iTrader: (2)

actually when I said that the rev bounced roughly around 6600... it might be in between 6600 to 7000 range which I wasn't too sure as I over revved my car while I was talking on the phone and noticed the engine was straggling, then I immediately depressed the clutch and threw the phone away to change the gear... so I would say that the fuel cut off is around 6600 to 6800!

cheers,

richie

DavidM

In US they seem to say that the auto has a higher rev-limiter than the manual. Manual at 6600rpm and Auto at 7000rpm. There was a thread in the main forum about this and few people trying it out (and confirming it).

Though, it sounds like youre limiter is at 6800 as that's where it's bouncing (from the sound of it).

ps. I still haven't found out what the gearing in an Auto Zed is ... I'll try again.

lionking

Though, it sounds like youre limiter is at 6800 as that's where it's bouncing (from the sound of it).

Hard to tell - gets there so quick in first gear. Definately goes up to 7000 and drops to 6800 when cut out occurs. I don't know if this is just inertia from the needle bouncing up to 7000 or if it cuts at 7000 down to 6800. But definately in the red.

ps. I still haven't found out what the gearing in an Auto Zed is ... I'll try again.

Gear Ratio

M/T A/T

1st 3.794 3.540

2nd 2.324 2.264

3rd 1.624 1.472

4th 1.271 1.000

5th 1.000 0.834

6th 0.794 N/A

3.446 2.370

Final Drive Ratio
3.538 3.357


Had a look at a few other threads on different forums. There's great debate on whether the 5AT would beat the 6MT with a good driver in both cars. Many believe the auto would be quicker over the 1/4 mile. Don't know about stock against the Hi-tech though but willin' to do some research. Pretty busy after hour this week DavidM but will PM you as soon as I get a free evening.

LK

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

Does the 5 speed 350z have tiptronic, or paddles??

ypwpat

the auto has the tiptronic, no paddle shift.

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

Do you like the carbon cooling panel? Is it a good quality / nice fit?

lionking

Does the 5 speed 350z have tiptronic, or paddles??

5AT is a tipronic shifter. Took a while to get used to but now I rarely use "drive". The shifting is great when you drive aggressively - not much use when grandpa driving as you get a lag between gears. But when the revs are up the gears snap - even get a chirp every now and then.

Engine braking was a challenge to work out. But, again, when goin' hard engine braking is great. Another good safety feature is that it won't downshift into over-reving range.

The tiptronic does not give you as much control as you have with a manual but works well when goin' flat out. Performed very well the only time I've been on the track. From what I hear 1:13 is not a bad time at Calder- especially for an auto with only street brakes.

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

That was a good review.

Cool, sounds similar to a Prelude one I've tried. You can't really compare it to a manual, as its a different thing altogether, but you've got drive there when you want it. Its a great concept, I always used to shift with the 1,2,Drive, Overdrive on my last car which was a normal auto. I actually wore out a part of the tranmission which normally doesnt ever get worn with everyday driving plus blowing up the gear box twice.(When you shift down into second when your driving a small brake like thing actaully pushes against the spinning parts and wares down bit, i'd done it soo much I wore it all the way down, I told them I used 2nd for engine braking )

Good concept.

ypwpat

yes it is good quality but. They forgot to put the hole for the hood holder clip thing. so end up i have to make that hole myself.
But not much hassle

ypwpat

here is the picture of the cooling panel

DavidM

Definately goes up to 7000 and drops to 6800 when cut out occurs. I don't know if this is just inertia from the needle bouncing up to 7000 or if it cuts at 7000 down to 6800.

In the US forums they are mentioning 7000rpm as the cut-out for the Auto so I'd be surprised if we had it any different. Manual has the cut-out definatelly at 6600rpm ... it won't let you go even a fraction over it.

Gear Ratio
M/T A/T
1st 3.794 3.540
2nd 2.324 2.264
3rd 1.624 1.472
4th 1.271 1.000
5th 1.000 0.834
6th 0.794 N/A
3.446 2.370

Final Drive Ratio
3.538 3.357

I should be able to work it out from that as it's the speeds in gear that tell the story. What is are the numbers that I underlined above?

Don't know about stock against the Hi-tech though but willin' to do some research. Pretty busy after hour this week DavidM but will PM you as soon as I get a free evening.

Sounds good ... still, the sooner the better for me as in about 10 days I'll be gove for 2 weeks (and my weekends before that are already booked out). I'm curious to see the difference as well.

ypwpat

does changing the Engine component will increase the rev limiter? or you still need to use the ECU to break the limiter?

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

Panel looks good! But they forgot the hole? So you couldnt close it without cutting the hole. Well it looks like you cut it correctly.(Isnt carbon fiber supposed to be strong )

You need an ecu change/reflash to increase the rev limiter, if I read your statement correctly.

ypwpat

Well it is strong i have to use my pocket knife and push it using my body weight to get it through :P
That's how strong it was hehehehe

mchapman

iTrader: (1)

Originally posted by ypwpat
Well it is strong i have to use my pocket knife and push it using my body weight to get it through :P
That's how strong it was hehehehe

LOL The good old carbon fiber cutting pocket knife.

YOUR NISSAN BADGE HAS CARBON FIBER BEHIND IT!
Only just saw that.

ypwpat

well it insert is made by Reenmachine. you can get them at Ebay and he is the member as well

DavidM

OK, I used the numbers for the gearing that Lionking posted. Also I pressumed that the 17" rim cars and 18" rim cars have the same diameter wheels/tyres.

Here is the calculated gearing for both cars:

Manual 350Z @ 6,600rpm:
- 1st gear = 61.0kph
- 2nd gear = 99.6kph
- 3rd gear = 142.5kph
- 4th gear = 182.1kph
- 5th gear = 231.5kph
- 6th gear = 291.6kph

Auto 350Z @ 6,600rpm:
- 1st gear = 68.8kph
- 2nd gear = 107.8kph
- 3rd gear = 165.7kph
- 4th gear = 244.0kph
- 5th gear = 307.3kph

Though, pressuming that the Auto cutout is set at 7,000rpm instead of the 6,600, then we get this:

Auto 350Z @ 7,000rpm:
- 1st gear = 73.0kph
- 2nd gear = 114.3kph
- 3rd gear = 175.8kph
- 4th gear = 258.8kph
- 5th gear = 325.9kph

Lionking, can you verify these numbers? Easiest way to do this is put the car in 2nd gear, do exaclty 3000rpm and your speedo should be reading 49kph. If that is what you're seeing then my calculations for the auto are correct. I know that the manual calculations are correct as they match the published numbers and my revs/speedo.

Pressuming that the calculations are correct, then the Auto Zed can comfortably cover 1/4mile with only 2 gear-changes (ie. in 3rd) ... that means over 1/4 mile it saves you one gear-change and that (even in a quick shifted manual) is good 0.3sec at best and more like 0.5sec on the 2nd-to-3rd change.

On the other hand, the Manual Zed has a fair bit shorter gearing so it should (generaly speaking) pull better. Though going just by the gearing (and not the speed of gear-changes) this is where each car is geared 'quicker' (ie. should be quicker at full flight and in the optimal gear):
- 0-61kph -> Manual
- 62-73kph -> Auto
- 73 - 99kph -> Manual
- 99 - 114kph -> Auto
- 114 - 142kph -> Manual
- 142 - 175kph -> Auto
- 175 - 231kph -> Manual
- 231 - 258kph -> Auto

That is just theory/calculations so we'll see how it really works/looks when we meet up.