My new badges of honor (pics)
Not many people can cook them like that. Time to make some brake ducts.
Yep, the brake ducts have to happen.
It's funny, cause there were only 5 real hard braking zones on that course, but you do a lap in about 1:30, so there isn't all that much cooling happening i guess. It was cool to watch them change, as it took place literally from one event to the next.
sean
It's funny, cause there were only 5 real hard braking zones on that course, but you do a lap in about 1:30, so there isn't all that much cooling happening i guess. It was cool to watch them change, as it took place literally from one event to the next.
sean
You know whats funny, after looking at the pics it looks like the inside portion of the caliper is the orginal color whereas the outside portion roasted. I noticed on my calipers are the same way also. The inside portion looks like it stays cooler compared to the outside portion. You would think the whole caliper would either change colors or stay the same. I guess there is air getting to the inside keeping it cool but not passing thru to keep the outside cool also.
it's funny it makes those of us that race pround to roast things. I'm in the process of finding the best way to rout brake ducts, on both far sides of the front grill there's two cheesey plastic peices that are held in buy on clip each, i took those out for some duct work. I'd like to see anyother configurations for the cooling battle.
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From: Chicago Burbs
beautiful.... finding the limits of your equipment.
next step: boiling brake fluid.
when i did my brake ducts for the mr2 it took me about 20 trips to home depot to get them the way i wanted to. basically just removed the fog lights, and there is a little piece of plastic back there that i cut to hold the duct. theyt help alot especially on smaller courses that are tight
next step: boiling brake fluid.
when i did my brake ducts for the mr2 it took me about 20 trips to home depot to get them the way i wanted to. basically just removed the fog lights, and there is a little piece of plastic back there that i cut to hold the duct. theyt help alot especially on smaller courses that are tight
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you are right. it makes me wonder how effective the duct kits will be as they aim the air at the inside of the brake assembly as well.
i guess i'll find out once i put them on.
sean
i guess i'll find out once i put them on.
sean
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From: Chicago Burbs
that is typically the way they are done, as you can't really aim it at the outside of the rotor without getting in the way of the wheel. and the brake assemblies already have the little air catchers on the dust guard things, but the best you can really do is aim it as close to center of the rotor/assembly as possible, and hope that the fact you are cooling it more than normal will help. i used 4" dryer duct, and had it pretty well hidden so it didn't look ghetto.... cost about $20 to do (and that was with buying extra crap as i tried to figure out what worked the best)....
Originally Posted by konspec
it's funny it makes those of us that race pround to roast things. I'm in the process of finding the best way to rout brake ducts, on both far sides of the front grill there's two cheesey plastic peices that are held in buy on clip each, i took those out for some duct work. I'd like to see anyother configurations for the cooling battle.
I will try to post some pics when I complete my brake ducts.
^
they performed really well for the first two events i had them on the car. good stopping power and only mild pad deposits on the rotors. this last event, which was on a shorter course giving them less chance to cool down, really took them apart. i used twice as much pad during the first day as i had during the other two track weekends combined. also, they covered my rotors with pad deposits pretty badly.
i think they are good pads for the $, and will probably be OK for a lot of people at alot of events. it does, obviously, depend alot on the track and your driving style as well.
sean
they performed really well for the first two events i had them on the car. good stopping power and only mild pad deposits on the rotors. this last event, which was on a shorter course giving them less chance to cool down, really took them apart. i used twice as much pad during the first day as i had during the other two track weekends combined. also, they covered my rotors with pad deposits pretty badly.
i think they are good pads for the $, and will probably be OK for a lot of people at alot of events. it does, obviously, depend alot on the track and your driving style as well.
sean
HP+ pads are STREET pads. They are not meant for track use. You will find competition style pads to be a revelation once you use them. See some good info at:
http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...ction=datemenu
Earlier dated installments cover braking issues.
http://www.ntechengineering.com/inde...ction=datemenu
Earlier dated installments cover braking issues.
Nick,
You are right. I switched to some Carbotech XP9 pads and have had nothing but great experiences with them since. I would not, however, recommend using the HP+ pads as street pads, as the noise and dust aren't worth any added bite.
Sean
You are right. I switched to some Carbotech XP9 pads and have had nothing but great experiences with them since. I would not, however, recommend using the HP+ pads as street pads, as the noise and dust aren't worth any added bite.
Sean
Would love to see pics / hear more about any DIY brake ducting people have done. I really want to do it, and probably will pony up for the orange duct that is intended to be used for this from racerpartswholesale or whomever - its like $30 or something. I'm sure I'll be able to rig up something in the nose of the car, even if it means buying the NACA ducts as well so the hose can just use hose clamps and the duct has screw holes/attachment points. The brake rotor/hub interface is another question entirely, and where my concerns are. How would one attach the hose so that it doesn't foul on anything during full lock steering manuevers, plus full suspension travel - and of course, stays aimed at the right place...
ahm
ahm
Here is the link to my thread with pics of my DIY Brake Duct kit.
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/121673-pics-of-my-homemade-brake-duct-kit.html
It wasn't as easy as I thought it would be but it wasn't hard at all.
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/121673-pics-of-my-homemade-brake-duct-kit.html
It wasn't as easy as I thought it would be but it wasn't hard at all.
I would be curious to see what your temperature difference is with the ducts, and the differential from side to side of the rotor, as it appears that you are blowing the majority of the air onto the inner side rotor face. We did what you did with the plastic front pieces back in '03, and routed the 3" ducting the same way. Our duct kit incorporated fiberglass ducts to receive the end of the hose at the upright, and take air to the center of the rotor. We supplied a new set of the plastic pieces with our kit, with the hose installed into the ends, so that your originals would remain intact. It was funny to see a mimic of our basic design show up somewhere else.
In case there are any interested parties, we will be working on a more efficient design at the upright end shortly, to re-release the kit. Of course we will be testing this summer on the race car to make them as functional as possible.
In case there are any interested parties, we will be working on a more efficient design at the upright end shortly, to re-release the kit. Of course we will be testing this summer on the race car to make them as functional as possible.
Originally Posted by racin
I would be curious to see what your temperature difference is with the ducts, and the differential from side to side of the rotor, as it appears that you are blowing the majority of the air onto the inner side rotor face. We did what you did with the plastic front pieces back in '03, and routed the 3" ducting the same way. Our duct kit incorporated fiberglass ducts to receive the end of the hose at the upright, and take air to the center of the rotor. We supplied a new set of the plastic pieces with our kit, with the hose installed into the ends, so that your originals would remain intact. It was funny to see a mimic of our basic design show up somewhere else.
In case there are any interested parties, we will be working on a more efficient design at the upright end shortly, to re-release the kit. Of course we will be testing this summer on the race car to make them as functional as possible.
In case there are any interested parties, we will be working on a more efficient design at the upright end shortly, to re-release the kit. Of course we will be testing this summer on the race car to make them as functional as possible.
I don't know how affective they will be or temps yet till I get out on the track. My bracket at the hub has a slight angle which allows some air to get to the center of the rotors but your right the majority is at backside of it. I didn't design my kit to be the best I just wanted something to get more air in to help out which is better than I had with no ducts.
