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Old Dec 4, 2007 | 03:48 PM
  #101  
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Originally Posted by daveh
Update is that they work. They seem to be of the same construction as all other springs that I have seen. Knockback is gone once again. I also replaced seals and cleaned up the caliper so it might be a combination of the new springs and the caliper servicing. The old springs still felt like they were good, but I reality, it's hard to tell if they lost a pound of two of force.
Did you install the springs yourself? If so, is it hard to do? My calipers are fairly new (<2k miles) and they really don't need the seals replaced, but I've had knockback from day 1 of auto-x and track.
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Old Dec 5, 2007 | 12:23 PM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by DMK
Did you install the springs yourself? If so, is it hard to do? My calipers are fairly new (<2k miles) and they really don't need the seals replaced, but I've had knockback from day 1 of auto-x and track.
You will need compressed air to "blow" the pistons out of the calipers.

A good, high torque impact driver will probably be needed to take the calipers off the car. Mine's a 600 lb and had a hard time...

Otherwise, its a relatively easy job. Remember to plug your brake lines. You don't want to have to prime them again...
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 06:07 AM
  #103  
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Out of interest does anyone have any experience on knockback for a 6 piston vs a 4 piston caliper? Would the smaller pistons spread over a longer disk area result in less of a knockback effect?
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Old Jan 6, 2008 | 08:07 AM
  #104  
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wow...thx for bumping this thread.

i'm confident I am and have been experiencing pad knock back since the installation of my 4-pot front and rear Stoptechs.

the bearings appear fine doing the shaking test.

i have gotten myself use to taping the brakes after coming out of a corner when driving on city streets.

at the track, i tap on the brakes before entering a braking zone.

we should get someone to mfg aftermarket hubs an bearings. i'm sure there will be buyers even at the $1000 price range if it can solve the knock-back and last the life of the car or a reasonable amount of time versus the OEM bearings and hu
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 01:51 PM
  #105  
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I'm going to get some knockback springs for my G.

Since you essentially rebuild the calipers when you install the springs is it a good idea to replace all the seals and boots with new rubber?

I've got 6-9 months on my stoptechs so probably less than 10k miles.

I'm going to give stoptech a call/email but since it's a weekend was also wondering if anyone already has links to the stuff I need. I'm running with ST-60 and ST-45 calipers.

EDIT: Oh is it necessary to do run the front and rear with knockback springs.

Here's my 0.02$ as well. My knockback is so horrible I don't even need to be moving to have the hub deflect. I can sit on any flat paved surface, turn the steering wheel full left & right, then I have to pump the brakes to get a firm pedal again. So I don't know if the G35 has this problem even worse then the Z.

Last edited by GWord256; Mar 14, 2009 at 02:00 PM.
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Old Mar 14, 2009 | 05:01 PM
  #106  
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Here is info/pictures of the StopTech rebuild kit & miscellaneous parts.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/StopTech/c...es.htm#Rebuild
Please note that this place charges full retail.

FYI, StopTech also makes anti-knockback springs
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 09:18 AM
  #107  
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has anyone looked at the 370z hubs to see if its interchangable? considering the 370 comes with 14" rotor's stock (sport package) it prolly has better hubs. the rotor's and caliper are bolt one (adaptor plate for caliper), so maybe the hubs are also interchangable...
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Old Mar 16, 2009 | 02:45 PM
  #108  
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Any suggestions on doing only the front or should I put knockback springs in the rear as well?
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