rear brakes gone before front????
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From: NewCastle, WA
I just did a track day at Thunderhill yesterday (Oct 1st) w/ my '05 stock enthusiast w/ 4,500 miles.
At the end of the day, I noticed that my front brakes pads had some melted 'goo' coming from them. I also noticed that my rear pads had worn completely down!!!
In all, I probably had 3-4 hrs of track time and I was experincing brake fade after being on the track for 15-20 minutes (each session was about 30 min)
**why did the rear brakes wear out before the front?? (The rear tires never locked up while under hard braking, so I don't thin htat the proportioning valve is too biased towards the rear)
Thanks for any help!! (...looks like I need a new set of rear rotors...)
At the end of the day, I noticed that my front brakes pads had some melted 'goo' coming from them. I also noticed that my rear pads had worn completely down!!!
In all, I probably had 3-4 hrs of track time and I was experincing brake fade after being on the track for 15-20 minutes (each session was about 30 min)
**why did the rear brakes wear out before the front?? (The rear tires never locked up while under hard braking, so I don't thin htat the proportioning valve is too biased towards the rear)
Thanks for any help!! (...looks like I need a new set of rear rotors...)
That's not uncommon for the Z. When it first came out, I remember reading an article where Stoptech was asked to throw together a brake kit for the Z in about two days. They did, but were shocked at how much rear bias the stock brakes have. Of course, they later developed a complete "balanced" kit, but their first mad dash revealed several things about the stock brakes that make them less than ideal for extended track use. The stock brakes are smaller than the Maxima's; the front's are only single piston, not dual, floating calipers; and the rear's are freakishly small for the amount of bias they recieve. As a result, the rear brakes wear faster on the track than the front, and rotors tend to warp with race compound pads for extended track use. If you're going to do this alot, and I hope you are, a good BBK or stock Brembo upgrade will be worth your while.
Will
Will
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hum...my car is leased and I have to return it in stock condition. Any cheap solution to this problem?
By the sound of it, getting semi-metallic pads will be able to handle the heat, but would just warp my rotors. Is there a set of rotors that aren't too expensive? I plan to hit the track 3-5 times a yr.
By the sound of it, getting semi-metallic pads will be able to handle the heat, but would just warp my rotors. Is there a set of rotors that aren't too expensive? I plan to hit the track 3-5 times a yr.
I had the same problem. The stock brakes are just not safe for tracking. I had them on my touring and got ride of them for a 350zbrakes kit made with Wilwood calipers and 13.6" rotors that fit 17 inch wheels. I have had it for two years and get 6 days on pads and no fade on days of 104degrees as Thunderhill can have in the summer. If you plan to do more days budget in a Big brake upgrade. It is he only safe way to track this car.
Tracking is great fun and you get hooked quickly.
Tracking is great fun and you get hooked quickly.
Yup rears go first. I can go through a set of race pads in 2-1/2 sessions (not days!) in the rear. The rears are about the size of postage stamps. On another note, I've got a front big brake kit for sale if your interested. It will help with the rears, but once you upgrade to the full kit including rears, your rears will last for many, many track days.
If you get a full track pad in the rear you will be able to get by. I'm running raybestos st-43's in the rear and am on par to get about 14 days out of them. Any full race pad will do (PFC 97 or 01, hawk ht-10). For reference I was cooking through other club race level pads in about a day or so.
If tracking the car is something you think you will be doing often, at least a front brake kit is a necessity!
If tracking the car is something you think you will be doing often, at least a front brake kit is a necessity!
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First350z,
I met you at the track Sat... I'm was the one w/the silverstone Z. You were actually quite quick for a bone stock Z with stock brakes, pads and fluids. I was surprised that you even lasted as long as you did. 2:20 is pretty good.
I've learned that Thunderhill isn't actually very hard on brakes, and have gotten my pads to last longer as I get better. But, as most members have recommended, I'd try to get a front bbk, and get the 13" rotors, not the 14" ones. I've got the 14" kit, and it's overkill.
I'm going to try to get by w/the oem rears, and most likely go w/the Raybestos that Daveh recommends. They aren't cheap ($150/set), but 14 track days is great longevity.
Hope to see you at the future events!
I met you at the track Sat... I'm was the one w/the silverstone Z. You were actually quite quick for a bone stock Z with stock brakes, pads and fluids. I was surprised that you even lasted as long as you did. 2:20 is pretty good.
I've learned that Thunderhill isn't actually very hard on brakes, and have gotten my pads to last longer as I get better. But, as most members have recommended, I'd try to get a front bbk, and get the 13" rotors, not the 14" ones. I've got the 14" kit, and it's overkill.
I'm going to try to get by w/the oem rears, and most likely go w/the Raybestos that Daveh recommends. They aren't cheap ($150/set), but 14 track days is great longevity.
Hope to see you at the future events!
Originally Posted by first350
hum...my car is leased and I have to return it in stock condition. Any cheap solution to this problem?
By the sound of it, getting semi-metallic pads will be able to handle the heat, but would just warp my rotors. Is there a set of rotors that aren't too expensive? I plan to hit the track 3-5 times a yr.
By the sound of it, getting semi-metallic pads will be able to handle the heat, but would just warp my rotors. Is there a set of rotors that aren't too expensive? I plan to hit the track 3-5 times a yr.
Originally Posted by TrackHoRX8
You can replace the pads with Hawk HPS or HP+ pads. The Plus pads wear the rotor a little, but that shouldn't be a big deal. The Hawks are great track pads. They are about $65 a set.
Will
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I was looking on ebay and found some OEM size rotors that are cross drilled for fairly cheap...any one have experince with these? (I'm wondering if the sellers just take OEM rotors and drill them...I would think that this would not last long b/c of all the stress that would be introduced)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350Z-...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350Z-...spagenameZWDVW
thanks!!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350Z-...spagenameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350Z-...spagenameZWDVW
thanks!!!
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From: NewCastle, WA
So I ordered new rear rotors ($100 for a pair of drilled/slotted OEM replacement...50% less than the OEM rotors from Nissan).
While putting on the new rotors, I removed (cut) the dust shields and installed new pads as well. I went to put new pads in the front, and found that the fronts still have 50% thickness!!!
my plan: find a BBK 13" front kit during the winter and a set of raybestos st-43's for the rear...install before next track day.
Thanks for all your help and wisdom! (this was one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done...helps that the car only has 3,500 miles on it and rust hasn't set in)
While putting on the new rotors, I removed (cut) the dust shields and installed new pads as well. I went to put new pads in the front, and found that the fronts still have 50% thickness!!!
my plan: find a BBK 13" front kit during the winter and a set of raybestos st-43's for the rear...install before next track day.
Thanks for all your help and wisdom! (this was one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done...helps that the car only has 3,500 miles on it and rust hasn't set in)
Where did you get new rear rotors for the Z? Who did you order the drilled rotors from? Do you know if anyone has published pictures and instructions for changing the rear rotors and pads on the Z?
Does anyone know if the 2006 Z made any improvements to the rear pads/rotor?
Thanks...
Does anyone know if the 2006 Z made any improvements to the rear pads/rotor?
Thanks...
Originally Posted by first350
So I ordered new rear rotors ($100 for a pair of drilled/slotted OEM replacement...50% less than the OEM rotors from Nissan).
While putting on the new rotors, I removed (cut) the dust shields and installed new pads as well. I went to put new pads in the front, and found that the fronts still have 50% thickness!!!
my plan: find a BBK 13" front kit during the winter and a set of raybestos st-43's for the rear...install before next track day.
Thanks for all your help and wisdom! (this was one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done...helps that the car only has 3,500 miles on it and rust hasn't set in)
While putting on the new rotors, I removed (cut) the dust shields and installed new pads as well. I went to put new pads in the front, and found that the fronts still have 50% thickness!!!
my plan: find a BBK 13" front kit during the winter and a set of raybestos st-43's for the rear...install before next track day.
Thanks for all your help and wisdom! (this was one of the easiest brake jobs I've ever done...helps that the car only has 3,500 miles on it and rust hasn't set in)
Originally Posted by kwadell
...Does anyone know if the 2006 Z made any improvements to the rear pads/rotor?
Thanks...
Thanks...
Interesting enough, a few members have posted photos of their '06 cars to show of their new wheels, and I noticed that the rear rotors do look a little larger.
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I paid $100 shipped for the rear rotors. email rich at rotorpros@yahoo.com
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....79#post1705179
here's the pics of the rotors unpackaged and then on the car. I've had htem on for a little less than a month (about 1,000 mi) and everything seems to be working well. I just did an auto-X, and they felt normal. From what I hear, they won't add much performance, but since I fried my oem rear rotors, these were cheaper than buying antoher oem set.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMGP0572.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMGP0571.jpg
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....79#post1705179
here's the pics of the rotors unpackaged and then on the car. I've had htem on for a little less than a month (about 1,000 mi) and everything seems to be working well. I just did an auto-X, and they felt normal. From what I hear, they won't add much performance, but since I fried my oem rear rotors, these were cheaper than buying antoher oem set.
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMGP0572.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...o/IMGP0571.jpg
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From: NewCastle, WA
as for replacing the rotors:
-remove wheels
-remove brake calipers (you'll need ot remove the whole assembly...I used zip ties to hang them off the A arms and made sure not to strain the brake lines)
-the rotors should be loose...they might need a little bit of nudging to get them off if they have rust.
I have the service manual as a pdf, but it's too large to post here. give me your meail address and I'll send the brake section to you.
-Peter
-remove wheels
-remove brake calipers (you'll need ot remove the whole assembly...I used zip ties to hang them off the A arms and made sure not to strain the brake lines)
-the rotors should be loose...they might need a little bit of nudging to get them off if they have rust.
I have the service manual as a pdf, but it's too large to post here. give me your meail address and I'll send the brake section to you.
-Peter
I have had good luck running the Hawk HT-10's up front (with 13" Stop Techs), and Hawk HPs in the rear for track days. The Hawks last much longer than the OEM rears. I have also tried EBC Red Stuff in the rear, but they were half gone in just two 20 minute practice and two time attack sessions (which were 5 laps each). Has anyone tried the EBC yellow stuff?




