Best autoX tire?
Originally Posted by tomsn16
For sure a quality Z performance against a host of top level drivers.However,Mr.P the Z driver,is not exactly chopped liver himself.
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Point of interest,what front bar and how are the front outside edges wearing on the Hoosiers?
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Point of interest,what front bar and how are the front outside edges wearing on the Hoosiers?
We got out the scales and camber gauges this weekend turns out the drivers side was only .6 negative. It is now 1.0 negative now. The passenger side was 1.3 neg and is now 1.5 neg. The rears are another story entirely with the drivers side at 1.3 neg and the passenger side at 2.0 neg.
No clue on the toe but it is going to get a good alignment before the Dec 3 event.
Hopefully this will take care of the tire wear issues...
I've run the following in Solo2 (all same size front and rear):
245/40/18 Kumho MX on OEM performance rims
255/40/18 Falken Azenis RT-615 (about .75 quicker than MX) on four Rays Track 18x8.5 rims
275/40/17 Kumho V710 (about 2 seconds quicker than Azenis) on four MB competition 17x9 rims
This season I'm thinking of toning it down a bit and try 275/40/17 Nitto NT01 on 17x10 (25) 5zigen all round. That way I can drive them to/from the track and even do some lapping on them w/o hurting my future Solo2 events too much.
From what I've heard, the Hoosier are possibly a tenth or two quicker but it sounds like it's best to go with the make that compliments your driving style most. The V710s allow a fair bit of slip angle and do last quite long. I've got 75+ runs on mine and both grooves are still clearly visible.
Azenis are recognized to be one of the best street Solo2 tires.
245/40/18 Kumho MX on OEM performance rims
255/40/18 Falken Azenis RT-615 (about .75 quicker than MX) on four Rays Track 18x8.5 rims
275/40/17 Kumho V710 (about 2 seconds quicker than Azenis) on four MB competition 17x9 rims
This season I'm thinking of toning it down a bit and try 275/40/17 Nitto NT01 on 17x10 (25) 5zigen all round. That way I can drive them to/from the track and even do some lapping on them w/o hurting my future Solo2 events too much.
From what I've heard, the Hoosier are possibly a tenth or two quicker but it sounds like it's best to go with the make that compliments your driving style most. The V710s allow a fair bit of slip angle and do last quite long. I've got 75+ runs on mine and both grooves are still clearly visible.
Azenis are recognized to be one of the best street Solo2 tires.
Originally Posted by Kirkster
I liked Sammys comment when he got out of it after his only two runs in the car at our test and tune. "that Fkr is fast".
No knocks on Carter, but everyone who has driven my car since we put on the A6s says it likes to be thrown around better than it likes to be finessed around the autox course. Since Carter is going to an RX-8 maybe he was trying to finesse the Z when that may have not been the best way to go...
Time will tell this year. I may be slow as crap after not doing this for 4 years, but I am sure that Sammy and Lee know what they are talking about when it comes to car handling and dynamics.
Oh and this was before we got the play out of the front suspension or even a basic alignment. We have some camber now, so it should stop eating the front drivers side tires...
No knocks on Carter, but everyone who has driven my car since we put on the A6s says it likes to be thrown around better than it likes to be finessed around the autox course. Since Carter is going to an RX-8 maybe he was trying to finesse the Z when that may have not been the best way to go...
Time will tell this year. I may be slow as crap after not doing this for 4 years, but I am sure that Sammy and Lee know what they are talking about when it comes to car handling and dynamics.
Oh and this was before we got the play out of the front suspension or even a basic alignment. We have some camber now, so it should stop eating the front drivers side tires...
Carter has never been accused of being a finesse driver......me yes(or maybe they said slow).
Originally Posted by Kirkster
We are running a Cusco front bar on the soft setting. The passenger side was wearing fine, but the drivers side was not doing so well.
We got out the scales and camber gauges this weekend turns out the drivers side was only .6 negative. It is now 1.0 negative now. The passenger side was 1.3 neg and is now 1.5 neg. The rears are another story entirely with the drivers side at 1.3 neg and the passenger side at 2.0 neg.
No clue on the toe but it is going to get a good alignment before the Dec 3 event.
Hopefully this will take care of the tire wear issues...
We got out the scales and camber gauges this weekend turns out the drivers side was only .6 negative. It is now 1.0 negative now. The passenger side was 1.3 neg and is now 1.5 neg. The rears are another story entirely with the drivers side at 1.3 neg and the passenger side at 2.0 neg.
No clue on the toe but it is going to get a good alignment before the Dec 3 event.
Hopefully this will take care of the tire wear issues...
Regarding your front camber...when you get the car on a good alignment rack I believe you will find numbers close to:
Our 2003 -0.7 L , -1.1 R
Our 2005 -0.8 L , -1.2 R
We had these cars on the same rack many times and the stinkin non-adjustable front always came out the same.As you probably know,the factory spec is -1.33 to +0.17 and that pretty much tells the sad front camber story.
Your dyno results are very close to ours...2003 242HP/238T
Originally Posted by tomsn16
Thanks for the reply.Glad you are doing so well with the Cusco bar (35mm hollow I believe).We had to go to the much stiffer CT1 ( 35mm solid).
Regarding your front camber...when you get the car on a good alignment rack I believe you will find numbers close to:
Our 2003 -0.7 L , -1.1 R
Our 2005 -0.8 L , -1.2 R
We had these cars on the same rack many times and the stinkin non-adjustable front always came out the same.As you probably know,the factory spec is -1.33 to +0.17 and that pretty much tells the sad front camber story.
Your dyno results are very close to ours...2003 242HP/238T
Regarding your front camber...when you get the car on a good alignment rack I believe you will find numbers close to:
Our 2003 -0.7 L , -1.1 R
Our 2005 -0.8 L , -1.2 R
We had these cars on the same rack many times and the stinkin non-adjustable front always came out the same.As you probably know,the factory spec is -1.33 to +0.17 and that pretty much tells the sad front camber story.
Your dyno results are very close to ours...2003 242HP/238T
Originally Posted by tomsn16
Sam and Lee are for sure two of the best resources in the business.If they say it is fast...it is fast.
Carter has never been accused of being a finesse driver......me yes(or maybe they said slow).
Carter has never been accused of being a finesse driver......me yes(or maybe they said slow).
Nobody said anything about slow... I can always ask.
I guess Nissan got their act together, at least on my base 2006:
Camber
LF 1.0- RF 1.0-
LR 1.1- RR 1.1-
Toe
Front 1/32" in
Rear 1/16" in
Caster
LF 9.0+ RF 9.2+
SAI
LF 6.0 RF 6.2
Above are "as delivered" numbers.
Camber
LF 1.0- RF 1.0-
LR 1.1- RR 1.1-
Toe
Front 1/32" in
Rear 1/16" in
Caster
LF 9.0+ RF 9.2+
SAI
LF 6.0 RF 6.2
Above are "as delivered" numbers.
Originally Posted by jun14scr
hm.. my 04 #s 1.4L 1.3R.. we think the left is higher because i ran over a curb once.
Just how tall was that curb, as I need more camber in the frontL
John's new '06 looks right on.For the rest of us be carefull what curbs to hit,the factory spec is -1.33 max and we can't go over that in BS.
I checked Chris Hammonds info and his '03 front camber was -0.7 L,-1.2 R.
I checked Chris Hammonds info and his '03 front camber was -0.7 L,-1.2 R.
it was about a 6" curb. only the drivers side went over. it scratched up the sway bar pretty bad and bent the bar brackets backwards about 3". it was such a PITA to get it off... 2" more and i would have broken the oil pan!!
sorry, back on topic. i know for my friends BSP 350z build he's going with hoosier. didn't really seem to like the kumhos too much and he really didn't get that many runs out of them.
personally if i run my car at all next year i'm going with 245s. they're cheap and they're sufficient for my needs. the tire to have is definitely a 285 kumho though, IMO. although hertwick's car did have the 285 hoosiers at nationals and buckley did very well too.
sorry, back on topic. i know for my friends BSP 350z build he's going with hoosier. didn't really seem to like the kumhos too much and he really didn't get that many runs out of them.
personally if i run my car at all next year i'm going with 245s. they're cheap and they're sufficient for my needs. the tire to have is definitely a 285 kumho though, IMO. although hertwick's car did have the 285 hoosiers at nationals and buckley did very well too.
Originally Posted by tomsn16
John's new '06 looks right on.For the rest of us be carefull what curbs to hit,the factory spec is -1.33 max and we can't go over that in BS.
Having said that, if the 350Z's front suspension is non-adjustable, and the factory tolerances go up to -1.33, then someone could conceivably protest a car with more than -1.33 degrees of camber on the basis that it shouldn't / couldn't have left the factory that way.
Originally Posted by PedalFaster
Nitpick, but the Stock class rule is that you can adjust the suspension within its range of adjustment, even if that takes it outside the bounds of the manufacturer's recommended settings.
Having said that, if the 350Z's front suspension is non-adjustable, and the factory tolerances go up to -1.33, then someone could conceivably protest a car with more than -1.33 degrees of camber on the basis that it shouldn't / couldn't have left the factory that way.
Having said that, if the 350Z's front suspension is non-adjustable, and the factory tolerances go up to -1.33, then someone could conceivably protest a car with more than -1.33 degrees of camber on the basis that it shouldn't / couldn't have left the factory that way.
Few years ago an ESP Camaro got a DQ at natls for a sloted K member that was a "crash damage repair".
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