Advice for buying a z for track days
Hi guys, hope you guys can give me some advice on what to buy, I've been searching the forums but just want further advice.
I'm not planning to have any internal mods, mostly using it for track days and some spirited winding road runs, so handling is pretty important (trying to keep the weight down) quarter mile times are not so important.
Planning to get a nice set of adjustable coil-overs, exhaust and a set of TE37's with toyo semi racing tyres
thinking of a big brake kit, but heard that the stock brembos are pretty good.
Anyone here going to track days regularly?
I was thinking of a 35th version but
300 vs 287? and which year model. Or wait for the 07'?
Thank alot guys.
I'm not planning to have any internal mods, mostly using it for track days and some spirited winding road runs, so handling is pretty important (trying to keep the weight down) quarter mile times are not so important.
Planning to get a nice set of adjustable coil-overs, exhaust and a set of TE37's with toyo semi racing tyres
thinking of a big brake kit, but heard that the stock brembos are pretty good.Anyone here going to track days regularly?
I was thinking of a 35th version but
300 vs 287? and which year model. Or wait for the 07'?
Thank alot guys.
well... the 03-05 Zs weight less than the 06s and 07s. 35th anniversary isnt worth it if its gonna be track-only. the 03-05 have more torque. yer best off trying to find a low mile 03-04 lower model like a base.
yer gonna want to put in a different LSD, so a base might be the right choice for you, plus its the lightest.
yer gonna want to put in a different LSD, so a base might be the right choice for you, plus its the lightest.
It's gonna be a daily driver too (main reason for no internal mods), but going to track pretty much every 10 days or so. Is the weight really that different? I heard many different opinions on it.
I'm running in a pretty small course, so low end is probably more important.But i might be able to stay on gear longer in the higer rev engines... might wait a little while on the LSD, give a few months try to get used to the car first the I might change
How is the stock LSD by the way?
Oh and I'm in Australia, so I get to choose only between Touring or Track the difference is some aero parts , VDC and brembo brakes.
Since VDC isn't that important to me, mostly gonna be off anyways, I'm thinking of saving the difference and buying a proper brake kit.
Anyone experienced some differences between the 300 vs 287 on a track?
I'm running in a pretty small course, so low end is probably more important.But i might be able to stay on gear longer in the higer rev engines... might wait a little while on the LSD, give a few months try to get used to the car first the I might change
How is the stock LSD by the way?Oh and I'm in Australia, so I get to choose only between Touring or Track the difference is some aero parts , VDC and brembo brakes.
Since VDC isn't that important to me, mostly gonna be off anyways, I'm thinking of saving the difference and buying a proper brake kit.
Anyone experienced some differences between the 300 vs 287 on a track?
Yeah it has to be legal. Track days here are when we gather some cars from clubs and organise for timed laps.
I'm not planning to have a race-spec car, just a decent powered one where I just need to tweak the suspension a little, set my track tyres, whack a helmet on and of I go.
I'm not planning to have a race-spec car, just a decent powered one where I just need to tweak the suspension a little, set my track tyres, whack a helmet on and of I go.
You should get a base model and buy an LSD, BBK, and lighteweight rims. It would probably end up costing just as much as a track model. Unless you care about having traction control, then get the enthusiast model.
Originally Posted by tak
It's gonna be a daily driver too (main reason for no internal mods), but going to track pretty much every 10 days or so. Is the weight really that different? I heard many different opinions on it.
I'm running in a pretty small course, so low end is probably more important.But i might be able to stay on gear longer in the higer rev engines... might wait a little while on the LSD, give a few months try to get used to the car first the I might change
How is the stock LSD by the way?
Oh and I'm in Australia, so I get to choose only between Touring or Track the difference is some aero parts , VDC and brembo brakes.
Since VDC isn't that important to me, mostly gonna be off anyways, I'm thinking of saving the difference and buying a proper brake kit.
Anyone experienced some differences between the 300 vs 287 on a track?
I'm running in a pretty small course, so low end is probably more important.But i might be able to stay on gear longer in the higer rev engines... might wait a little while on the LSD, give a few months try to get used to the car first the I might change
How is the stock LSD by the way?Oh and I'm in Australia, so I get to choose only between Touring or Track the difference is some aero parts , VDC and brembo brakes.
Since VDC isn't that important to me, mostly gonna be off anyways, I'm thinking of saving the difference and buying a proper brake kit.
Anyone experienced some differences between the 300 vs 287 on a track?
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I'll add my $0.02 and say that for what you're looking for, the track model is the way to go. Besides the Brembos, the forged Rays wheels are the other addition that'll be a feature you'd want for a dual-purpose vehicle. I understand you want to mod your Z with wheels, coil-overs, etc. but the track model itself is an excellent package to start with and not that much more on the used market. Having driven the 287 vs. 300 HP version Zs, you will notice a bit of difference at the top end, but unless you're actually racing the Z it's not worth the difference in price.
David Muramoto
Senior Editor
Nissan sport Magazine
David Muramoto
Senior Editor
Nissan sport Magazine
Originally Posted by adrianko43
You should get a base model and buy an LSD, BBK, and lighteweight rims. It would probably end up costing just as much as a track model. Unless you care about having traction control, then get the enthusiast model.
Yet, if you want traction control, get an after market one that can be tuned by you, the stock traction control is way to conservative for the track!
03 to 05 Z with the 287hp motor is the way to go!
Since you mentioned suspension, if you get a set of coilovers - then get a set of A-Arms - 350EVO - and they are still making them. Also, look into a good set of traction/camber bars for the rear. A few other things if you have money left - good set of adjustable sways and get a set of adjustable end links.
One last thing - after all the modification to my car, the second best modification (after tires) I have ever made to any car for the track is a racing seat and harness!
For track days, you definately don't want the leather seats or navigation (unless you've got a really bad sense of direction
).
If your choices are touring or track, choose the track model. You can still build it up, and if you get the '05 track, you get a higher redline and arguably more "usable" torque, even though peak torque is lower.
The best-cost option to get faster is to first work on the driver until you can tell that the car is the limiting factor, then upgrade the car.
).If your choices are touring or track, choose the track model. You can still build it up, and if you get the '05 track, you get a higher redline and arguably more "usable" torque, even though peak torque is lower.
The best-cost option to get faster is to first work on the driver until you can tell that the car is the limiting factor, then upgrade the car.
It's too bad you guys, in Australia, don't get the base model. I got the Enthusiast, and if I had to do it over, I would have gotten the base, then buy a good diff. I don't care much for the 1st gen HID lamps, and I turn off TCS by habit now. I think the only other option, which is actually the most worthwhile option between the enthu and base the homelink mirror. My car is a daily driver, so it's a big plus.
With the base model, I'd get the front bbk, suspension, and light weight 18x9.5 (or 10) wheels to put on some 265 or 275 width tires. In then end, I think you'd end up paying as much as the track version, but be better off (better diff, better wheel sizes and offsets)
TAk, you mentioned in your other post that you currently drive an S2000? That's a nice light weight chassis with a great handling package. The Z can be pretty quick in the right hands, but I've seen many fast S2000's too. Though I haven't driven the S2000, I've heard from many that it's tough to find something else that matches it in the handling dept.
With the base model, I'd get the front bbk, suspension, and light weight 18x9.5 (or 10) wheels to put on some 265 or 275 width tires. In then end, I think you'd end up paying as much as the track version, but be better off (better diff, better wheel sizes and offsets)
TAk, you mentioned in your other post that you currently drive an S2000? That's a nice light weight chassis with a great handling package. The Z can be pretty quick in the right hands, but I've seen many fast S2000's too. Though I haven't driven the S2000, I've heard from many that it's tough to find something else that matches it in the handling dept.
If you already drive an S2k, you will not like the difference in performance on track, especially on a small course like you mentioned. What the S2ks lack in torque and power, they make up for in agility and handling, which is more optimal on smaller tighter courses.
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