Gary, the cusco arms only have something like 4 possible adjustments. Imagine four settings with 1 being the least camber (pulled out all the way), and the 4th setting having the most negative camber (pushed in all the way). For the street, I run setting 2 which is -1 with my spring setup, and then for the track I run the 4th setting which is -2.9.

Adjustment is provided by sliding the lower plate along the fixed upper plate. As you move the lower plate you'll notice that at preset increments, different bolt holes will line up to allow you to bolt the two plates together. Study the arms before installing them to see how they work.

To change settings, you simply need a hex key (5mm I think). Make sure there's no grit in the upper plate track otherwise the plates won't be able to slide their full length which prevents the holes from lining up.

The only alignment I'd consider is have the toe adjusted for a specific setting. Personally I did it at max camber for the most predicatabililty when on the track.

 

Hey FritzMan,

thanks for the tips, I took a close look at the arm yesterday and notice the bolts you mentioned. However, how tight should I tighten those bolts? (I assume it can be dangerous if they come loose when I drive, espically at the track).

Gary

 

Old topics are the best...

 

bumpity for question:

how to get more than -2.9 from cusco arms?

i had my alignment from Mworkz last week, my driver side i could only get -2.5 but passenger was a -2.9

i would like to see if i could get at least < -3.0

any of you modify your cusco arms? and how?

 

Hey C., this is Dan, Doeboy's friend...Met you a couple of times? When are you going to take that beast of yours out to the track man? John's made instructor you know...

C'mon, if you're not busy, at least come out and get some rides with us this weekend at Buttonwillow or June 2-3rd at Willow Springs. It'll be fun.

 

Quick question from a track noob

Going from street to track/autox do you need to get it aligned after you switch. I assume no. But say the Autox events are a month apart(first weekend of the month).

Thanks guys and very good read

Chris

 

You don't have to change it back.

But you will get more tire wear if you keep a track alignement.

 

Thanks Kolia Is there a good thread discussing different track setups with cambers and what not? I am searching.

 

Just scroll down the Autocross/Road forum and you'll find some topics.

Remember that front camber is not adjustable on our cars, so we are somewhat limited in alignement options.

 

If you're a noob at this auto-cross thing, and the car sees more street time than "track" time, I suggest you leave it at a conservative setting and don't worry about it until you have at least a half dozen events under your belt.

At your current experience level you will not know what to do with "setup" even if it bit you on the @ss. It will only slow you down. Trust me.

Just go, do the events, and eventually the stuff you read here will click and you'll start figuring out things about settings and why the car behaves a certain way when you change a certain setting. Otherwise all you're doing is trying to maximize what you perceive as the car's potential when the biggest bottle-neck is the nut behind the wheel.

 

Thanks for the insight. I will be starting up in some autox events. The local one is every 1st weekend of he month. I am getting use to my suspension "setup" that I have on the car. I can't wait for the first event.
I just need to get the tire sizing down...

Just for reference:
HKS LS+ coilovers
Cusco Front Aarms
SPC rear camber
Cusco Sways

Track rims for track/autox events. Right now I have standard tire sizes on them. I was thinking 265 all four corners of the Falken 615's.

Sorry for getting off topic.

 

Can one of you engineer folks provide a simple chart with conversions from inches to degrees for toe measurements on a 17" wheel?

ie 1/16" = xx degrees
1/8" = xx degrees

 

1/16" = 0.211 degrees
1/8" = 0.421 degrees
3/16" = 0.682 degrees


I'm assuming toe is measured like this: