alignment setting for track day recommendation
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alignment setting for track day recommendation
What have you used and worked? I have HKS RS coilovers, cusco sways and LSD, F/R 275/40/17 Toyo RA1, Cusco front control arm SPC rear
But I don't know where to start for the track alignment setting.
Ideally I like a setting that is 'ok' for everyday driving and for tracking.
I will be going to Portland International Raceway.
But I don't know where to start for the track alignment setting.
Ideally I like a setting that is 'ok' for everyday driving and for tracking.
I will be going to Portland International Raceway.
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Except for the camber settings, the above alignment numbers are what I'm running on my daily driver/autox 350Z. No unusual tire wear in 3,600 miles. I might see a tire mileage reduction of 10% as a result of the front toe setting but that's not significant in my mind. I'm even thinking about increasing front toe out to 3/32".
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I run even more toe than Betamotorsports suggests and I got about 30k out of my stock fronts and 20k out of my stock rears; mostly commuting. Never had any feathering or unusually uneven wear. I adjust my evo control arms for street and track as well.
FAB_VR6 I am assuming that the cusco arms are adjustable somewhat easily before track events just like my evos, so I would recommend marking them off for -1 degree for the street and -2.7 for the track. Set your toe settings up front while you are set at your track camber setting (approx -2.7). When you adjust your control arms back to street, your toe will change inwards ever so slightly (which is a good thing for the street).
Of course, the standard alignment rules apply to the Z.
Increase front tow-out for quicker turn in
Increase rear toe-in for more stablility
edit: I've also learned to run less neg camber up front in the rain. I wore away a good section of my inside rubber running too much camber in the rain. And still got spanked by the AWD's.
FAB_VR6 I am assuming that the cusco arms are adjustable somewhat easily before track events just like my evos, so I would recommend marking them off for -1 degree for the street and -2.7 for the track. Set your toe settings up front while you are set at your track camber setting (approx -2.7). When you adjust your control arms back to street, your toe will change inwards ever so slightly (which is a good thing for the street).
Of course, the standard alignment rules apply to the Z.
Increase front tow-out for quicker turn in
Increase rear toe-in for more stablility
edit: I've also learned to run less neg camber up front in the rain. I wore away a good section of my inside rubber running too much camber in the rain. And still got spanked by the AWD's.
Last edited by daveh; 02-04-2007 at 07:35 PM.
#6
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Dave, now I know why your mileage stinks...hehe...you got too much toe for commuting! My car is aligned for steering numbness, slow turn-in, poor high-speed stability, and agitated chassis under braking, and that's why my mileage rocks. Although, that doesn't explain your phenominal tire life. I'm going to guess that you're just delusional
As far as toe settings, I run 1/16" toe out front and 1/8" toe in rear. My tires don't last as long as Dave's but I usually get 20k + ~5 track days.
As far as toe settings, I run 1/16" toe out front and 1/8" toe in rear. My tires don't last as long as Dave's but I usually get 20k + ~5 track days.
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Originally Posted by dnguyent
As far as toe settings, I run 1/16" toe out front and 1/8" toe in rear. My tires don't last as long as Dave's but I usually get 20k + ~5 track days.
Also, ~5 track days is probably the equivilant of 5000 street miles so you also get similar street mileage as I do (with strikingly similar alignment settings).
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#11
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Originally Posted by daveh
Yup, car is only used on weekends for my mom to go to the grocery store
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Originally Posted by dnguyent
Does the grocery store also have an abandoned parking lot in front of it? Dave has a knack for knowing where all the abandoned parking lots are. In fact, he holds other lap records other than the one at Infineon. It just so happens that those "tracks" aren't sanctioned by any governing bodies, like SCCA, NASA...or the police.
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Originally Posted by daveh
I run even more toe than Betamotorsports suggests and I got about 30k out of my stock fronts and 20k out of my stock rears; mostly commuting. Never had any feathering or unusually uneven wear. I adjust my evo control arms for street and track as well.
FAB_VR6 I am assuming that the cusco arms are adjustable somewhat easily before track events just like my evos, so I would recommend marking them off for -1 degree for the street and -2.7 for the track. Set your toe settings up front while you are set at your track camber setting (approx -2.7). When you adjust your control arms back to street, your toe will change inwards ever so slightly (which is a good thing for the street).
Of course, the standard alignment rules apply to the Z.
Increase front tow-out for quicker turn in
Increase rear toe-in for more stablility
edit: I've also learned to run less neg camber up front in the rain. I wore away a good section of my inside rubber running too much camber in the rain. And still got spanked by the AWD's.
FAB_VR6 I am assuming that the cusco arms are adjustable somewhat easily before track events just like my evos, so I would recommend marking them off for -1 degree for the street and -2.7 for the track. Set your toe settings up front while you are set at your track camber setting (approx -2.7). When you adjust your control arms back to street, your toe will change inwards ever so slightly (which is a good thing for the street).
Of course, the standard alignment rules apply to the Z.
Increase front tow-out for quicker turn in
Increase rear toe-in for more stablility
edit: I've also learned to run less neg camber up front in the rain. I wore away a good section of my inside rubber running too much camber in the rain. And still got spanked by the AWD's.
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How about 0' toe front and back? would that be a nono? anybody used that?
Originally Posted by betamotorsports
Just off the top of my head - dual purpose alignment:
FRONT
Camber -1.75
Caster +9
SAI 6
Toe 1/16" out
Ride Height - Don't know yet.
REAR
Camber -1.5
Toe 1/16" in
Ride Height - Don't know yet.
FRONT
Camber -1.75
Caster +9
SAI 6
Toe 1/16" out
Ride Height - Don't know yet.
REAR
Camber -1.5
Toe 1/16" in
Ride Height - Don't know yet.
#16
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For Solo2 and street I run zero toe front and rear.
I tried a little toe out in the front and really didn't care for the change.
My camber with the Cuscu arms up front is -2.9 and rear is OEM max camber at -2.
After events I swing the front back up to -1 for the street.
I tried a little toe out in the front and really didn't care for the change.
My camber with the Cuscu arms up front is -2.9 and rear is OEM max camber at -2.
After events I swing the front back up to -1 for the street.
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Originally Posted by Fab_vr6
Dave, what about your rear settings?
0 toe is not a big no no. It might be a good street track compromise. Give it a try and if you feel like you want more turn in or stablilty, add some toe..
edit: 17" wheels
Last edited by daveh; 05-10-2007 at 01:33 PM.
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Originally Posted by FritzMan
For Solo2 and street I run zero toe front and rear.
I tried a little toe out in the front and really didn't care for the change.
My camber with the Cuscu arms up front is -2.9 and rear is OEM max camber at -2.
After events I swing the front back up to -1 for the street.
I tried a little toe out in the front and really didn't care for the change.
My camber with the Cuscu arms up front is -2.9 and rear is OEM max camber at -2.
After events I swing the front back up to -1 for the street.
After the alignment is done (assuming I asked him to set the track setting), what is the instruction on how to adjust it back to street setting? what tools do I need and is it something I can do in my garage with accuracy or do I need the shop to do it for me with the alignment machine?
Thanks
Gary
#19
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Zero rear toe is certainly an option for autocross work. For the street and for higher speeds on a race track zero rear toe will make the car a little less stable in back. At the limit it will also make applying power a more delicate task. Generally racers add rear toe-in to allow better power applicaiton at the limit and to give a little more stability under braking.
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Hey guys - can you let us know what size wheel you run since to get the same toe in/out for a different wheel you need to account for the wheel size.
Tb = Ta X Db/Da
or (toe for wheel b = toe for wheel a x diameter of wheel b/diameter of wheel a)
Tb = Ta X Db/Da
or (toe for wheel b = toe for wheel a x diameter of wheel b/diameter of wheel a)