As some of you know through my posts, I have just recently began doing HPDE events with my fully stock 350z in OEM non brembo brakes (with Hawk HP+). So far on my first track day I burned my dust boots, which I changed; on my second event, I managed to let time pass, tracked for 1hr and went through a brand new set of pads in that hour + 20 previous minutes.

I know they are some posts on brakes. I dont need recomendation on the best pads for HPDE events. But I would appreciate if any one has any recomandation on a good set of racing pads for a beginer/intermediate heavy brake footed driver.

In the events I have run, I havent realy felt a lot of fade; so that is not my main concern. My main concern is pad durability and heat control (since it seems to be the worst problem I'm having).

 

There are a lot of posts on brake pad recommendations here and in the brake section. In general, the OEM brakes are marginal for track use and that's magnified by being a novice driver. It's hard not to overuse the brakes when you're unfamiliar with a particular track, or driving at speed. Try to use quick, decisive brake applications when approaching a turn. A big problem is coming into a turn too fast and holding onto the brakes for longer than necessary- that builds heat quickly.

As far as a pad recommendation, you might look into Cobalt Friction's (cobaltfriction.com) new carbon-ceramic brake pad line. Nissan Sport will be testing their new XR2 pad formulation on Project 350Z Street in an upcoming issue.

David Muramoto
Senior Editor
Nissan Sport Magazine

 

there's a sticky here on this forum re: pads used for track

here's the link
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-road/214117-track-pads-database.html

I use Porterfield R4 (F&R) with the OEM Brembo + Stoptech lines + Motul600RBF. I love how it works for me (Im a beginner as well)

 

Cut the dust shield in the back and buy a more dedicated track pads. You should get about 200 miles on them F&R

 

Yep I cut them this time, I will also be adding some duct for more brake ventilartion. Any recomdation on pads?

 

I have seen the sticky and have gotten great info from it, I also have been doing some reaserch on old threads relating to race pads and track events. And have come to a few that I like, but just wanted to see what experineced drivers thought of my personal situation and brake recomandations for me.

I am probably going to end up with the Portfield as well, I also have Motul600.

Thanks for the comment, looking forward to the upcoming issue!

 

Hawk HT-10's have worked very well for me. They have surprisingly survived multiple events. I think they only offer a rear pad for the oem single pistons. You might want to consider an upgrade to an aftermarket BBK. From what I'm saving on pad wear it is certainly helping offset the costs of the front stoptechs. My front pads last me multiple events now vs a single event.

 

Hawk HP+

 

I use Raybestos R41 (front) and R43 (rear) brake pads for HPDE...I had the same problem w/ my OE pads, but after changing to these for track day only, they've lasted a lot long; it looks like I should get at least 8 days out of them (I usualy double dip w/ beginner/intermediate run groups...so I get lots of time on track)

 

Great insight, did you do something else for cooling? What about the rotors, do you still use OEM?

I'll be buying some BBK in the future. Do you think getting a front BBK but leaving the rear stock will be a bad idea? Will I have some kind of bias?

 

I had to buy a new set of rear rotors after my 1st track day b/c when my rear pads wore out, I went metal to metal ... but I bought OE style rotors and they've held up fine. (I had tried a cheaper set of drilled rotors and ended up having them start to crack after 1 track day)

I haven't had any issues w/ brake fade once switching to the new pads...plus, I do mainly autoX, so I can't goto a BBK without getting bumped up into a really hard class to compete in.

 

Good point on the AutoX, I'm on the same boat.

So you haven't have any heat issues with the Raybestos on HPDE's?

 

none whatsoever...I've been running R-comps and would usualy get close to 3hrs on track. I also changed fluid to Motul RBF600.

Since I have a dedicated set of wheels for the track, I just plan on changing both wheels and pads early morning at the track...I'm getting faster at it

 

Great this is the exact information I was looking for, thanks for posting!

 

I am a Carbotech guy. Sure they don't have great wear, but they sure do work great and I have had nothing but good luck with them. At $150 a set, the price is decent for what you get. I use the XP10, but I can tell you the 8 and 10 are disappointing to use on the street. They make so much noise. I dont even like them much for the autox, but they sure do work great.

As far as fluid, I am starting to like the Wilwood. I had the valvoline and motul before, didnt like them as they absorb moisture very quickly.

 

The pads I will be buying will be race pads only. Motul has worked well for me so I wont change it unless it starts giving me some trouble.

 

I just updated my notes in the brake pad sticky. Take a look over there for some more detailed info on what I've used in the Z.

 

Thanks for the update, but reading it gave me one more concern. I have two pads in concidaration, the Porterfield R4 or the Raybestos R43; but I wont be using R-compund tires (I have Khumo Ecsta MX). You mention the Raybestos will overpower them, so should I get the Porterfield instead?

 

Not if you buy a kit that's engineered specifically to be used with the rear stock rotors and calipers.

However, that being said...The rear brake is the WEAK POINT of an otherwise wonderful car. I've seen some very experienced drivers (10+ events) completely cook their brake fluid on the rear calipers on a Track trim with Brembo. The fluid came out in a freakin' FOAM when we bled the system. I would still consider upgrading the rear system as well despite a front BBK balanced to do the majority of the work.

By the way, I also managed to burn through an entire set of rear pads, TWICE, once with the OE pads and once with the Nismo R pad compound, in 2 25 minute sessions. It is true that novices use up more of the brake, being rough on them...But as you gain experience and speed you end up having to use the brakes more and again start to burn up the brakes. When I had my 350Z I had about 15+ events at the track with 30+ days of experience. There's no good way to conserve the braking system on the 350Z, unfortunately.

One key to look at here, especially for non-track models, is how small the rear rotors are. They're pathetically small for a ~3,300 lbs car. The reason why you would go through the pads so quickly, is the small rotors can't dissipate heat fast enough so the heat builds up and that causes the pads to overheat and get torn up. One way to alleviate the problem is to cut away the backing plate, or you can upgrade the rear brakes to something like this when you go to a BBK:

http://www.racingbrake.com/350Z_non_...2002-211-0.htm

It's a larger rotor using the OE caliper but a larger bracket as well to accommodate the larger rotors. Larger rotors mean a more effective cooling area. More effective cooling means you draw heat away from the rear brakes faster and allow you to prolong the life of your pads.

A much better compliment to a front BBK than just leaving the rears stock if you ask me.

Also, the 350Z has electronic brake bias, I assume the system will automatically adjust the brake bias even if you upgrade the fronts only. But aesthetically and functionally I think it's better to upgrade the rear as well.

 

It doesn't really matter that much if your pads "overpower" the tires. You just need to learn to adapt to the additional brake torque and brake in a smooth fashion so you don't trigger the ABS.

I think for your needs, you really need to look at a true track pad that can withstand higher brake temperature. I've used Hawk DTC-60s (it's their higher end track compound that's upgraded from the HT-10/HT-14 combo) and it's much easier to modulate than the other track pads (they have linear and smooth bite but hold up well to heat). DTC-60s and the Cobalt Spec-VR and its replacement XR series seems to be what most of my club-racer friends use and love.

I've actually heard a lot of negative feedback re: Porterfield pads from my instructor buddies although I've not had personal experience with them.