Winter Plans Anyone???
11-29-2007, 12:17 PM
#21
Installing this:
Also:
- Remove rear sway bar and rear coilovers and clean/lube everything and try to get rid of some slight clunking I have got going on back there.
- Change diff and trans fluid
- Change PS fluid
- Install Evo-R hood dampeners
- Purchase new 5zigen 17x10 FN01RC and 275 series rubber for them
- Figure out how to get a tow hook to work with my Aerosync front bumper (it covers the OEM tow hook hole).
Also:
- Remove rear sway bar and rear coilovers and clean/lube everything and try to get rid of some slight clunking I have got going on back there.
- Change diff and trans fluid
- Change PS fluid
- Install Evo-R hood dampeners
- Purchase new 5zigen 17x10 FN01RC and 275 series rubber for them
- Figure out how to get a tow hook to work with my Aerosync front bumper (it covers the OEM tow hook hole).
11-29-2007, 12:30 PM
#22
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I'm kind of weary on that cusco cage as well. With the bends that essentially will go under the dash, instead of through, are nothing more then a weak spot in a front collision. May be ok for Auto-X but not sure it would pass any SCCA/NASA/PCA etc... regulations. I certainly would hope not anyway.
anyhow...its cool to see what everyone is up to this winter. I have so many things I would like to do, but I know I will run short of money long before its all completed. Hell at one point even thought about selling every mod I have and going back to stock. This way I could buy a mx-5 car or something along those lines. I found a couple formula cars, parts and trailer for not much more then I have in all my mods. Oh well we'll see.
anyhow...its cool to see what everyone is up to this winter. I have so many things I would like to do, but I know I will run short of money long before its all completed. Hell at one point even thought about selling every mod I have and going back to stock. This way I could buy a mx-5 car or something along those lines. I found a couple formula cars, parts and trailer for not much more then I have in all my mods. Oh well we'll see.
11-29-2007, 01:09 PM
#23
Originally Posted by Stack
Okee Dokee... that seventh point will do the trick I'm sure 
. Sorry I care, lets hope you never have to find out if it works or not.
. Sorry I care, lets hope you never have to find out if it works or not.
11-30-2007, 05:05 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by drift_projekt_Z
wow, dude you need to eat a tampon and calm down a bit.
its not a full out race car, its a street car that sees a roadcourse couple times a month at most.
Look... all I'm saying is, I hate to see anyone spend that kind of money on something worthless. And it is actually worse than no cage at all IMHO. God forbid you rolled that thing on track or WORSE on the street (where the time it takes an ambulance or fire/rescue to get to you is anyone's guess). Those bends in the front tubes will only move one direction, down and back either into your seat, or beside you, effectively trapping you in the car.
The main hoop without a diagonal cross bar renders the bar useless for any practical purpose, the tubing is too small, it has too many joints and bends, too many "lightweight fasteners"
My guess is you haven't considered any padding for the roll bar yet either have you? (Or if you have, it'll be the foam pipe insulation found at Home Depot or something.)
For the money you're talking about spending, you could get a very nice custom 4-point roll bar that would NOT compromise your safety in an accident on or off track.
11-30-2007, 05:25 AM
#25
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I found a local guy to do a 4pt cage for 700 bucks. didn't think that was to bad considering it would be custom fit. He does a lot of cages around here and I have seen his work. Well worth the extra couple hundred to get quality, safe products, no matter what the product is or what its intended to do.
anyhow, back on track.......
anyhow, back on track.......
11-30-2007, 08:19 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by mhoward1
I think I will stay out of the Cage debate here....but I agree with Stacy.
Looks like my winter plans include an engine pull
Looks like my winter plans include an engine pull
11-30-2007, 08:39 PM
#30
tc kline koni's, kinetix front a arms, nismo bushings, swap the longblock and build the one I pull out. Clean and regrease sway bar bushings. Clean out and organize the garage. Look for a cheap used harness bar. Install my cobra evolution seat. Read some books.
12-01-2007, 04:35 AM
#31
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Originally Posted by 1cockyZ
tc kline koni's, kinetix front a arms, nismo bushings, swap the longblock and build the one I pull out. Clean and regrease sway bar bushings. Clean out and organize the garage. Look for a cheap used harness bar. Install my cobra evolution seat. Read some books.
12-02-2007, 12:26 AM
#32
Originally Posted by Stack
Nice... how's the 4th grade working out for ya?
IF you do in fact do "a couple roadcourse" events a month, you better check with whoever you run with before getting this bar.
Look... all I'm saying is, I hate to see anyone spend that kind of money on something worthless. And it is actually worse than no cage at all IMHO. God forbid you rolled that thing on track or WORSE on the street (where the time it takes an ambulance or fire/rescue to get to you is anyone's guess). Those bends in the front tubes will only move one direction, down and back either into your seat, or beside you, effectively trapping you in the car.
The main hoop without a diagonal cross bar renders the bar useless for any practical purpose, the tubing is too small, it has too many joints and bends, too many "lightweight fasteners"
My guess is you haven't considered any padding for the roll bar yet either have you? (Or if you have, it'll be the foam pipe insulation found at Home Depot or something.)
For the money you're talking about spending, you could get a very nice custom 4-point roll bar that would NOT compromise your safety in an accident on or off track.
IF you do in fact do "a couple roadcourse" events a month, you better check with whoever you run with before getting this bar.
Look... all I'm saying is, I hate to see anyone spend that kind of money on something worthless. And it is actually worse than no cage at all IMHO. God forbid you rolled that thing on track or WORSE on the street (where the time it takes an ambulance or fire/rescue to get to you is anyone's guess). Those bends in the front tubes will only move one direction, down and back either into your seat, or beside you, effectively trapping you in the car.
The main hoop without a diagonal cross bar renders the bar useless for any practical purpose, the tubing is too small, it has too many joints and bends, too many "lightweight fasteners"
My guess is you haven't considered any padding for the roll bar yet either have you? (Or if you have, it'll be the foam pipe insulation found at Home Depot or something.)
For the money you're talking about spending, you could get a very nice custom 4-point roll bar that would NOT compromise your safety in an accident on or off track.
12-02-2007, 03:48 AM
#33
I'm with stacy - why start with crap then modify it? But hey, tons of power w/ defective safety equipment should make for a GREAT time. (you ever stop and think why all of these random people on the intarw3b are harassing you? hint hint: it ain't for kicks and giggles, maybe we actually care to NOT read another "kid killed at the track" thread?).
my plans are up in the air right now, finishing a disastrously over-budget loft renovation right now... if I'm not broke on the street I have more trailer plans than car but I want to remove some OEM wiring (stereo, radio, etc) and clean stuff up interior wise, race car or not, its kinda meh in there.
my plans are up in the air right now, finishing a disastrously over-budget loft renovation right now... if I'm not broke on the street I have more trailer plans than car but I want to remove some OEM wiring (stereo, radio, etc) and clean stuff up interior wise, race car or not, its kinda meh in there.
12-02-2007, 02:51 PM
#34
Originally Posted by Billhyco
I found a local guy to do a 4pt cage for 700 bucks. didn't think that was to bad considering it would be custom fit. He does a lot of cages around here and I have seen his work. Well worth the extra couple hundred to get quality, safe products, no matter what the product is or what its intended to do.
anyhow, back on track.......
anyhow, back on track.......
12-02-2007, 04:47 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by Kolia
700$ is about half what I was budgeting for a custom roll bar. What standards does he adhere to ? SCCA? FIA?
http://www.competitioncages.com/
12-03-2007, 11:44 AM
#40
Originally Posted by mhoward1
Chris Schimmell does quality work. He builds for NASA, Car Guys, SCCA and many more. he just happens to be quite a bargain as well for the work he does.