Powering out of corners and maintaining grip is the whole deal with our cars. Exit speed is king for the 350.
Running full fuel is most definitely going to help you, for two reasons. One is of course the added weight over the rear tires, helping to keep them planted. Two is that when you run a half tank, there is significant fuel slosh, helping the tail end get loose. Running more/less negative camber in the rear is a delicate science....too little negative camber and your tires aren't planted in turns. Too much and the tires are too angled to put power down. I have found that a full tank and -1.9* camber has worked quite well for me....

If you think you have issues with the tail end, think how I feel..... I have a Base Z that I race. Open differential. Of course, it has taught me throttle modulation, very much so. It also makes me work harder to plant the rear end, and therefore I am able to give better advice because I'm constantly fighting the loss of traction.

If you go out next week on the street tires, I would start with 42 psi in front and rear. Adjust from there, make sure that you watch the wear indicators. Some people use chalk or white paint or whatever, but you can see what's up.

The one device that best helps show you where your camber and pressures need to be is a pyrometer. It is basically a little gun shaped device that checks the temperature of things. Check the inside, middle, and outside temps of the tire. The difference in temps tell you a lot, but I'm sure I'm getting a little ahead of our discussion here.

The VLSD is a viscous unit, and it depends on it's fluid internally. While it is a LSD, it is not a great one. As far as I'm concerned, the best aftermarket LSD that is available for the Z would be the Quaife. It basically has yaw control built in.

As for the rims..... well I know that they are not stock so does everyone else who has read this thread. Being in motorsports as long as I have, even the simple 'cheater mod' like that is frowned upon. The better you do, the more people want to make sure you have the proper, legal equipment. All you have to do is look at the rim and you can tell what size it is.....it says it.

 

Stock 03 wheels are only 8's front and rear , in a later post you mention you were going to run 8.5 rears front and back . Thats not possible with stock wheels unless you get 06 and newer wheels.

 

Sorry, I missed this.

I can't recommend any of those three sir.

I would have to lean towards TC's dual adjustable Konis that are valvematched to whatever spring you want to run...

I could start a whole big stink about shock dynos and everything, but the readers digest version is:

BS, Stance, KW...... all hype. Could have 4 shocks with 4 totally different shock rates. It's really sad. Aftermarket brakes and suspension are VERY money driven.

 

Question: Why can't you do that?

 

Because it's against the rules.
laze1, I saw you on the NASA forums today. I'm sure I'll be seeing more of you, I live in charlotte.

Tony (nice to meet you, kinda)

 

yepper, i lurck over there...I have just started to run NASA out of Atlanta

Daytona Blue 350Z Grand Touring #53 in TTB


I was wondering about the wheel issues...I know that they fit,,,didn't know about the rules


See you around!

 

Any updates, Mr. 5 o'clock shadow?

 

I'll be in TTC. Hope to see you out racing later this year!

 

haha, well I have my 350evo sways in now med/med, I have the sub box out, got an alignment done, and have 285 slicks now (but not mounted) since ups lost my volks my only wheels are my oem's.

So this will give me a chance to run the car on its current setup but still on street tires.

any major benifits of messing with the oem strut bar? I
actually cranked mine down so it doesnt hit the hood since I have a intake spacer. which kind of pulls the strut tower together. I think?

 

A lot of it has to do with the driver, the car will only give you so much of an advantage.
I beat a bunch of s2000's this weekend and I was only running street tires as well. The one car that beat me was an S2000 with slicks.
Most of the other cars I beat all had slicks as well.

B Stock cars should be generally faster than equally equiped lower-class cars.
Thus why PAX timing comes in to adjust the times. Most of the time differences are because of driver skill.