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Doing my first road race in two weeks...any suggestions?

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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 07:59 PM
  #21  
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alright, i just sent Jason an e-mail asking if my car is eligible. A friend of mine has some brand new OEM brake pads that he's willing to sell me for $20 and im contemplating on just getting a fresh set for the track. I really dont want to spend $140 for some brake pads right now, but if i have to i will.

Thanks for all the advice!
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Ataru074
the common mistake as newbie is overdrive the tires, brake too early and too much and, mainly, try to keep the pace of more experienced drivers in less powerful cars.. that usually happens after two or three sessions... you feel confident, you feel powerful and you have enough adrenaline in your body to break bricks with your head... that is usually a good time to take a longer break, eat and drink something... relax and chill out around.
+1!
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by autodrifter4
alright, i just sent Jason an e-mail asking if my car is eligible. A friend of mine has some brand new OEM brake pads that he's willing to sell me for $20 and im contemplating on just getting a fresh set for the track. I really dont want to spend $140 for some brake pads right now, but if i have to i will.

Thanks for all the advice!
well I understand you don't want to spend... ok, stock pads, lines and fluid will give up in few laps and isn't nice when you have no brakes at 100mph... trust us.. it happens.
to be safe avoid to make more than 2 "fast laps" at the time and give time to everything to cool down... meaning.. you don't push the speed to the top, you don't stay "light" on the brakes before the turns but try to use the engine to reduce the speed... and check your speed... I have seen more than one guy running off the track during cool down laps because they didn't realize that they where still going too fast for some corners.

you'll feel the brake pedal becoming softer... pay attention to that... and don't think "it will last another corner.. just another one..." slow down.. and as it will feel ok again... do another cool down lap and maybe another one.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by BPRacer
According to the official Santa Run 100 rules:

"CONVERTIBLES:
All open top cars must have a roll bar.... Some cars with an active "pop-up" rollover protective may also qualify, but will require advance notice to the event organizers at JSCHURFELD@SANTARUN.COM for qualification."

I do not know enough about the roadsters to know if they have such a pop-up rollover protection, but either way, I would check with Jason to make sure you are ok before you travel down there.
That is why I raised the issue in an earlier post. Honestly, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I will be shocked if you are allowed to track your roadster. The ZR does NOT pass the "broomstick" test. Nor is there a roll bar that you can install.
I find myself in the same situation. I have been driving my wife's Mercedes at HPDE's (she is not too happy LOL!) while I shop around for a used coupe that I can track.
I hope it works out for you though.
(Also, GREAT info in the rest of this thread!)
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 06:40 AM
  #25  
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Ataru074 is 100% right. Is you possibly crashing and getting hurt worth saving $140 on brake pads? Keep the car stock, use high temp fluids (I like Motul fluids) and nice high melt point brake pads.

You could use the new stock ones, but remember that they have a much lower heat tolerance. It is not just the density of the pad, it has to do with the materials and what kind of heat they can take. New stock pads at Willowsprings in CA will last about 1 session if you are aggressive on them...2 sessions if you are somewhat careful; but they will go and I would not want to be in an automatic transmission car when they do. Without a clutch and immediate gear to use to wow you down, it could get ugly...reeaallly fast.

Originally Posted by reserved
...The ZR does NOT pass the "broomstick" test. Nor is there a roll bar that you can install.
I find myself in the same situation. I have been driving my wife's Mercedes at HPDE's (she is not too happy LOL!) while I shop around for a used coupe that I can track.

I know of the perfect track car that is dialed in and ready to go....Ebay item # is 190268947355.

Here is a link.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...CA:MOTORS:1123

Last edited by Fooshe; Nov 24, 2008 at 06:46 AM.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:08 AM
  #26  
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I just checked with Jason and he said that If i dont have a roll bar i must keep the top up. If i cant race i hope i can still get my money back!

I remember seeing a picture of the stock hoops taken apart and the bars in there looked pretty beefy.

i dont want to die so im getting some good pads. lol
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by autodrifter4
I just checked with Jason and he said that If i dont have a roll bar i must keep the top up. If i cant race i hope i can still get my money back!

I remember seeing a picture of the stock hoops taken apart and the bars in there looked pretty beefy.

i dont want to die so im getting some good pads. lol
It's not the strength of the hoops, it's the height. If the car was to flip, everyone's head is out of the protection zone. Keeping the top up won't help that.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:16 AM
  #28  
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I e-mailed the coordinator and he said just keep the top up, and im 5'4" so i think ill be safe. jk jk lol i wouldnt want to risk my life on that stock rollbar either

so many things to do!! Much props to you track guys. You guys spend a lot of time and money on this sport!
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 08:59 AM
  #29  
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I was checking... if you don't have brembo brakes ferodo ds2500 aren't available. btw.. standard brakes did change with 2006 model.. (bigger front). so depends on which model and year you have you can find more or less pads....
summit racing had the ebc yellow for both 2003-2005 years and 2006-2008. is about 200$ front and rear... I don't know if it's going to be too aggressive for street tires. lines and fluid exchange is going to be about 250$ if you use ate blue or something like that with labor in a friendly shop... at the end you'll enjoy the lines also on the street and doing everything at the same time, save some money on the labor.
better to be safe than sorry.
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 02:04 PM
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While I did not read every post, find an instructor or someone who's been there before to ride with you on your first time out. It will cut your learning curve in half and increase your and others safety, not to mention make you faster.


mpowers
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #31  
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Wanna ride with me Brian? Or me ride with you?

we should sticky this...

EDIT:
Ive been doing some research and it says to only put nissan spec (Mattic J ATF) transmission fluid in it

If the automatic transmission in the new Q45 (F50) or G35 (V35) requires service, a new type of automatic transmission fluid MUST be used. The new fluid is Nissan Matic-J. The New Nissan Matic-J

* Only Nissan Matic-J automatic transmission fluid (P/N 999MP-MTJ00P) is specially formulated to meet the exacting requirements of Infiniti's new 5-speed automatic transmission (RE5R05A).
* The RE5R05A transmission contains new internal components that require the use of Nissan Matic-J only!

CAUTION:

* Usage of Nissan Matic-D or any other automatic transmission fluid in the RE5R05A 5-speed automatic

transmission will cause deterioration in driveability and transmission durability.

* Do NOT use any other fluid for the RE5R05A 5-speed automatic transmission, only use Nissan Matic-J.
* Use of any other fluid may result in damage to the RE5R05A 5-speed automatic transmission, which will not be covered by the INFINITI warranty......"
it also stated that i shouldnt have to change my transmission fluid till about 60,000 miles and i have about 39,000 so is this still necessary?

Im changing my oil with synthetic 10w30 motor oil (havent decided which brand yet) and im changing my brake fluid with Amisol Series 600 DOT4 Racing brake fluid.

Should i change the differential fluid while im at it? ANd im still trying to find some decent track pads that wont hurt my wallet too much

Last edited by autodrifter4; Nov 24, 2008 at 10:29 PM.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 04:14 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by autodrifter4
ANd im still trying to find some decent track pads that wont hurt my wallet too much
We have Hawk Blue front pads in stock for the 03-05 non-brembo cars
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 06:54 AM
  #33  
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Trans fluid is not a bad idea. Rememeber, they are talking about under normal driving conditions. These conditions are definately not considered normal. A change of the fluid with the recommended fluid is not a bad idea.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 03:16 PM
  #34  
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Good Luck tomorrow and don't forget to tell us how it went for you!

Keep it on the floor until you see God, then brake. Scratch that...brake hard!

Just kidding....Be safe and have fun.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 06:10 PM
  #35  
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Is this an actual race or just a track day (lapping day)?
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Fooshe
Good Luck tomorrow and don't forget to tell us how it went for you!
Jeez, you scared the crap out of me till I checked the schedule again! It's actually Sunday.... good thing, as I still have brakes to finish!
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #37  
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Woops! i completely forgot about this thread! After i got new pads and brake fluid i remembered that i had a final that sunday so i had to bail

I may still be there to watch but leave early so i can take my final (im taking it early since im going out of the country with the family)
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 05:00 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by autodrifter4
Woops! i completely forgot about this thread! After i got new pads and brake fluid i remembered that i had a final that sunday so i had to bail

I may still be there to watch but leave early so i can take my final (im taking it early since im going out of the country with the family)
autodrifter4 <- starts a thread and bails out . . .
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 06:20 AM
  #39  
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"Fail"
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 07:24 AM
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A lot of great info.

I scanned the posts so I may have missed this but after a session on the track when you pull in and park do NOT set the parking brake. It is possible the rear brakes will freeze/weld.
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