Im doing a charity road race at Talladega Grand Prix for toys for tots on December 7th and it will be my first real race on a racetrack. Im just looking to go out there and have fun, but some tips would be appreciated. My car is nothing special, I have an auto Z roadster with some minor bolt ons.

heres the website in case you want track information ect ect

www.santarun100.com

thanks guys

 

Be smooth, hit your track in, apexes and track out points, be in the right gear for corner exit. Watch others take corners when you get the opportunity. Ask for advice from people who have experience at that track.
Good luck.

 

thanks man! yeah im prob just gonna try to be as fluid as possible. Im not going out to break any records but I kinda want to look like i know what im doing lol.

Any advice one pre/post heat checks? Should i get new brakes and an oil/transmission/diff fluid change before the race?

And what about tape? What key areas should i tape off?

Im sorry for all the questions and i hope this isnt a repost. I checked the stickies and searched but came up with nothing.

 

First thing is to check if you will be allowed to run your roadster.

 

im pretty sure i'll be able to. There are a lot of miata's running as well as some convertable mustangs and old school cobras. but ill check. thanks!

 

Stay in and get some good rest the night before!

 

LTGP is a very short track with tight corners ...you will accelerate to 100 MPH then slam on the brakes 5 times a lap...and for a rookie a lap of around 1:15 is good/normal...fast is 1:10, track record is like 55 seconds in a shifter cart.

So LTGP is a "brake nightmare"...it is gonna eat your pads/rotors and boil your stock brake fluid....your brakes never have time to cool...Guys running Cheap-o Bling-Bling drilled rotors will suffer cracks/shattering...not a good thing to happen on track. So a brake fluid and pads upgrade is STRONGLY recommended! If you are running low-end drilled rotors, you will want to be REAL CAREFULL!

So 1/3 of the cars will be sidelined with brake problems by the end of the day. However the cool December temps will help some..it is still gonna happen to folks to run hard for an entire session. So one option is to only run 3-4 HOT laps per session, the other laps are warm/cool down laps.

NOTE: The cool down laps are important...doing 2 laps with minimal brake usage will bring the brake temps WAY down before going into the paddock and parking...So make sure to do as many cool down laps as possible.

 

Any advice one pre/post heat checks? Should i get new brakes and an oil/transmission/diff fluid change before the race?

And what about tape? What key areas should i tape off?

Im sorry for all the questions and i hope this isnt a repost. I checked the stickies and searched but came up with nothing.[/QUOTE]


I doubt that you have the right equipment to check tire temperatures, but if you do you should check each tire in three places, outside contact surface of tire, middle, and inside contact surface. Always check the front tire that is doing the most work, if its a track where the left front is getting the most punishment then check that one first, then the left rear and then right front and lastly the right rear. Tire temperatures tell you where to set your camber and toe but I doubt that you should worry about that at this stage.
I cant tell you what pressures to use as we only use Kumho 710 tires used for SCCA racing.

You might want to tape off your headlights but you should expect that you might get some rock chips in the paint and maybe even the windshield. Before you go be sure that all your fluid levels are at normal levels. Take some extra oil with you. After each session check your dipstick for oil and check brake fluid levels. I would definitely take some extra brake pads. You might want to call Carbotech and ask Danny what would be the best compound for what you are going to do. Keep the stock pads handy in case you need them. Park next to someone who has more experience doing this than you do if you can find someone like that. Try to follow him/her for a few laps to get some idea on what to do. Pick out markers beside the track or even on the track to serve as braking points. Keep in mind that those spots will change somewhat as you get faster and cant quite brake as deeply as you did when you were going slower. Lastly, dont get in over your head, keep in mind that you want to drive your car home and not be riding in the wreckers cab while he takes you to the body shop. Good luck.

 

Good suggestions all. I'd also add two points: the Z's automatic tranny has been troublesome at some HPDEs/track day event. It can get hot and if it does, it goes into a 'failsafe' mode (won't shift up or down). Consider changing to a high temp synthetic auto tranny fluid (Redline makes one) when you do the brake fluid change.

Also, if you're on OEM tires, use your tire pressure gauge to check after each session. If tire pressures begin to exceed 40#, you may want to bleed them down slightly. We've noticed that as the tires get hotter, they have higher slip angles and feel "greasy" when exceeding 40#.

Good luck and have fun!

 

thanks man! yeah im prob just gonna try to be as fluid as possible. Im not going out to break any records but I kinda want to look like i know what im doing lol. Good, you have the right attitude. I think that a good suggestions have been made, but they are coming from a racing point of view. If you are just going out to run around the track, and not puch your car, you should be fine. However, if you are going to push the car and try to run quickly (and I am sure you will once you get on track) than you do need to prep your car and get ready for the event.

Any advice one pre/post heat checks? Racerbob4 is right. That is the way to check your set up. However, if you don't want to go that far with this, just make sure to check your air pressures. Start at the factory recommended pressure and go from there. You want to end up no higher than 38-39 lbs. You have to adjust for both ambiant and track temps, so get off track swiftly and check them as soon as possible. Before you go back out, re-torque your lugs and set your tire pressures accordingly. For your first time on the track, air pressures will probably be good enough as you are trying something new and this really will not be a full on race.

Should i get new brakes and an oil/transmission/diff fluid change before the race? The track looks like it has some interesting braking zones. I think Laze1 is spot on and you will need to get your brakes in order. Re-read his post as I think it is very complete. I would change the fluids if they have not been done recently. Since these are the life blood of you car, I can't see how changing them would be a bad thing. Also, use high temp fluids made for this. Motul 600 brake fluid, Redline High Temp Trans fluid, etc. Synthetics will usually always hold up better.

And what about tape? What key areas should i tape off? In the Z, you will find the entire front end will be a bit beat up if you are behind traffic. Choose your spots to tape by answering this question, what do I not want to have to scrub tire marble marks and tiny road debirs marks off afterwards? If the answer is none, go get some 3 inch painters tape and make a tape bra for the car. Also put some on the side rockers about 6 inches up and 12 inches up in front of the rear wheel wells.

This is your first time so let me share some key things you didn't ask, which is typical of most first timers.

Equipment is obvious. Make sure the car is in good repair, you have SOLID brakes and good tires. Torque your lugs to 90 lbs. before you go out each time and always check your fluid levels and tires when you come in from a session.

You asked about the car, but the biggest componant that needs to be ready is the driver. Remember what you are out there for an treat it with the respect and attention it deserves. Be realistic about your abilities and remember that you can crash and people get hurt; some have died. This is a relatively small charity event and Speed Channel won't be there. You get no big check at the end and you probably won't be screwing the trophy girl. So have fun, but drive within your ability and slowly build your speed if you want to go fast. Don't drive ***** to the wall and then try to dial it down to a comfortable level...that just does not work. Get a lot of rest the night before and make sure you hydrate yourself well for 1-2 days prior no matter what the weather is like.

As for before you go on track, talk with people and make friends. This is a fun event and there will no doubt be people who have been on track before. Tell them you are new to the track and let them know you are egar to learn. In talking with people, as what their experience is and listen carefully. Learn who's who in the zoo, so to speak. If they sound like they have their head on straight, ask if they can help you with the line by showing you their opinion on a track map. Then ask them if you can follow them to learn the line for a couple laps. DON'T JUST FOLLOW SOMEONE AND ASSUME THEY KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING. They may take a different line for some reason and you won't know why. By asking first, you let them know what you are doing and trying to accomplish. Most every guy out there with any experience will drive slower and drive the perfect line for a first timer. We want you to get it right the first time and enjoy your day. Now we secretly also want to make sure you know where to go so you are not a danger to us or others later. Drivers who do odd or unusual things on track make experienced drivers very nervous.

Once you have an idea of the line, start driving. The most important things to remember (in my opinion) are:
1) Have fun and don't crash. There is nothing more depressing than a ride home in a wrecker.
2) WATCH THE CORNER WORKERS...EVERY ONE OF THEM. These people are your communication method. Follow the flags and pay attention to them. Also, once the event is done or if you see them around the Paddoc, say hello and say thank you.
3) GET YOUR EYES UP...WAY UP! the number one driver error I see if not looking far enough ahead. When the eyes come up, the anxiety comes down. Remember your brain will help you steer the car where your eyes are looking. When you give it more time to react, you will find that things happen much slower, which is a good thing. It's like riding a bike. Remember when you first learned and you could hear your dad saying pedal, pedal, pedal...now watch out for that tree! What happened? You hit the damn tree because that is where you were looking.
4) Never "slam" on your brakes on the track. That is how most of the heat cracks get there; sudden accelerated temps. Squeeze the brakes on and use them as smoothly as possible. Same with the throttle, squeeze it on and don't mash your foot to the floor. Remember, smoother is not only easier on your equipment, it is also faster! So also remember to breath and don't handle the steering wheel with a death grip.
5) STAY ON LINE. Even if you are slower than other cars, stay on the racing line. It is the responsibility of the faster car to pass you and the safe way to have a cooperative pass is you going where the faster car knows you will go so he can plan his pass. Use of a "point by" always helps. You point to the side of the car you want him to pass on. This does two things...it let's him know you see him and that you are expecting him to pass him on that specific side. Lastly, if you point someone by, get off the throttle to make the pass easier for him.
6) Check your mirrors and try to avoid having tunnel vision. You want to be aware of the who is around you and where they are.
7) Have good track etiquete(sp). Don't race someone who you shouldn't be and don't steal apexes.

I hope this helps.

 

^those are really good suggestions man

i'd like to share mine as well:

in order to be safer at the track it's best to install steel braided brake lines, and track-spec brake fluid like the rest of the guys stated. if you can, slap in a set of track pads as well. this should let your baby z hold up a few more laps before the brakes start to fade AND keep you a lot safer.

once your brakes start to fade, be sure to brake a lot earlier than usual

when they feel too spongy, pump the pedal couple of times till it gets firm enough (BUT DO NOT OVERDO THIS AS IT MIGHT GIVE A SUDDEN BITE), then get off the track ASAP.

check your tyre's condition / air pressure

brake in a straight line always.

go slow on the first few laps and carefully study the racing lines then gradually pick up speed as you get more familiar with the whole track

hand position should be 9:15

do not compete with others even though it is always tempting.

with the stock suspension/tyre set up the Z tends to UNDERSTEER. be careful in case u enter corners too hot.

u know when the tyres are too hot when the steering handle will starts to wiggle as you brake hard from a highspeed dash. be more extra extra cautious if u start experiencing this

lastly, enjoy! nothing beats racing the Z around a nicely laid track!

 

excellent info fooshe

 

wow! Such good information! Ill definitely keep all this in mind when I go to the track. Hell, I might even print your suggestions out and make a checklist!

Looks like Ill be changing my transmission fluid, brake fluid, and oil soon and ill look for some track pads.

Anyone have and pads or fluids for cheap ?

 

No such thing!

Great info on the steal braided lines, but I didn't go that far as it does not sound like it is an all out event. A stock Z will do fine if used properly and not pushed to it's limit on every corner, every lap for 15 laps. But if you are going back to the track, he is right. But then again, you will have a hand full of things to change then.

As far as fluids and pads, just have them flush your lines and replace it with a high temp racing fluid like motul 600. As far as pads, that is a whole other discussion. For this day, just put new ones on your car in front and make sure your rears have at the very least 1/2 pad life remaining.

I very much like the one thing that was added about braking in a straight line. Braking in a turn can be tricky and dangerous at speed.

Again, remember that this is for fun and not a competition. Keep the shinny side up. If, after the event you want to do more (and you will), let's chat!

PS. I almost forgot, welcome to addiction!

 

some things like steel braided lines, good pads (on stock tires ebc yellow or ferodo ds2500 should be fine) and ate blue fluid are IMHO mandatory. same goes for tire check every session, outside and inside.. same for pressure.
the common mistake as newbie is overdrive the tires, brake too early and too much and, mainly, try to keep the pace of more experienced drivers in less powerful cars.. that usually happens after two or three sessions... you feel confident, you feel powerful and you have enough adrenaline in your body to break bricks with your head... that is usually a good time to take a longer break, eat and drink something... relax and chill out around.

 

Alright, im in the process of getting some Hawks HPS pads for the front and some friction master ceramics for the rears. Should i resurface my rotors?

What are some good fluids to get? Oil, transmission, brake, ect? Redline? Mobile1? And is it necessary to change the diff fluid?

 

Why are you planning to use 2 different manufacturers pads front and rear??
..this is not normally recommended..

BTW: If you are looking for a good local Atlanta Shop to do your work..try Alan *** Automotive in Marietta...talk to JMAN and tell him LaZe1 sent you..they can get you the proper pads/fluids/etc...

http://rpgproduction.rpmware.com/

Note: They are one of my sponsors...(truth in advertising)

 

According to the official Santa Run 100 rules:

"CONVERTIBLES:
All open top cars must have a roll bar.... Some cars with an active "pop-up" rollover protective may also qualify, but will require advance notice to the event organizers at JSCHURFELD@SANTARUN.COM for qualification."

I do not know enough about the roadsters to know if they have such a pop-up rollover protection, but either way, I would check with Jason to make sure you are ok before you travel down there.

Assuming you come, stop by and see me. I will be running as well, and I have done quite a few driving events at TGPR. I do not claim to be an expert, but I will be glad to help in any way I can!

As for your other questions:

#1, remember it is NOT a roadrace, it is a track day. BIG difference! No trophies, no payout, no sex in the champagne room with the trophy girl, as previously stated, just a bunch of people with cars they love driving in various stages of over-their-heads. Try not to take them out, try not to get taken out by them. Respect the other drivers, respect the point-by, and do not let yourself get angered or upset by others on track. Emotion clouds judgement! Good pads, fresh fluids, decent tires, and a level head will get you thru just fine. Maybe a change of underwear....

See you there!


By fastech at 2008-11-07

 

i have brand new rear pads that i never used, but i need new front pads. I wanted to steer away from spending too much money so i was just going to get new front pads. Should i just buy a whole new set? And what a bout resurfacing the rotor?

And ill def stop by and talk to you Brian! My names Phaladone. I know its not a road race...i just didnt know what to call it lol.

 

Get some good trackworthy front pads, they do the majority of the work anyways. Rears to match would be beneficial but not absolutely necessary, just don't overdrive whatever you put on there. I would not resurface the rotors IMO- many may disagree, but when you turn the rotors, they get thinner, and then they warp easier. I would either replace them with some good OEM-quality rotors (no cheapo chinese rotors from the big discount auto parts chains!) or just run the ones you have. If they are in good condition without any cracks or deep grooves and haven't been turned or worn down below spec, they will work fine.

I look forward to meeting you. Just double-check the rollbar thing, ok?


By fastech at 2008-11-07