Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

I am getting ready to replace my front rotors and want to get the "coolest" (literally) rotors I can without risking cracks or other failures. (i.e. cross-drilled)

I have come down to

A) Power Slot (Slotted all the way to the edge of the rotor, but straight-vane configuration.)

Or

B) Racing Brake. (Slotted -not to the edge of the rotor, but curved-vane configuration.)

Does anyone have experience with either of these on a road-course, where they could get hot?

I am stuck with the smallest brakes ever offered on a 350Z, (05 base) and would like to get brakes that will get rid of heat better than the stock rotors.

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

Neither, get the cheapest blanks you can find and make some coolings ducts.

Those rotors have more of a chance of cracking. Stay with blanks, unless you have big $$$ to replace them often.

RAGE

iTrader: (1)

I have cross drilled and slotted on mines for about 3 yrs now, work great

1cockyZ

iTrader: (46)

Not for nothing the 06' nonbrembo's go for super cheap. Being you are buying rotors anyway, why not upgrade. I am pretty sure you don't have to take a bump in any stock classes either. I would buy cryoed blanks to answer your original question.

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

For street use, sure.

I track my car almost once a month and I replace my front rotors once a year. The stress cracks get pretty severe and I can't imagine giving them other places to fail (slots/holes).

A rotor failing is the last thing you want to happen on track.

WXSigns

iTrader: (15)

We run slotted Powerslot cryo rotors on our '95 M3 Race car. 1st set lasted 10 races, including all the practice sessions, qualifying, test and tunes and 4 hour enduro.

Yes, we run brake ducts, Pagid Orange racing pads and Castrol SRF.

I wouldn't even take the risk of cross drilled rotors on the track.

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the responses.

WXSigns, the Power Slots simply wore out correct? They didn't "fail", right?

Right now I autocross, a lot, but have yet to do any track days. Right now the most "heat" my brakes get is at ZdayZ every year, but since I have to replace the rotors anyway, I would like "upgrade" as best I can. I might even get an extra set of "track pads" and start doing some track days once or twice a year.

Are anything other than "blanks" worth it? I would like to try the Racing Brake "curved vane" rotors but I have no idea if they or their products are any good.

Power Slot seems to sell solid products but I dont know if slots allone are much of an upgrade.

WXSigns

iTrader: (15)

Yes, wore out.

mhoward1

Most braking engineers say the more mass you can carry the better the cooling will be and the more braking surface will be available. The Slotted rotors are used for gassing out the pads, but since most modern pads don't really do that anymore it's best to balance rotor mass with unsprung weight to decide which rotors to go with.

If you look at ALMS, GT1, etc you will see they used either solid or grooved rotor blanks.



The groves give more surface area, but kill the pads. My recomendation is a good solid blank.

WXSigns

iTrader: (15)

You can also argue Koni Challenge many of the E46 M3s run Alcon brake kits and Stoptech with slotted rotors.

I quoted Power slot because SCCA races are aprx 30 mins in length. Well short of any ALMS and GT1 race. Plus, those your comparing have a bigger budget for brakes.

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Curved vane rotors help. For a street, autocross, and track car that sees 30 minute track session, slots and holes do not help. Courtesy Nissan sells the OEM front rotors for $100 each which are perfect for your intended used.

betamotorsports

iTrader: (1)

Can someone please delete shankyrhodes spam post.

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

If Alcon or Stoptech gave me free rotors, I would run them also.

WXSigns

iTrader: (15)

No kidding. Thanks for making my point. And, there are some Grand Am teams that are privately funded and don't get free products.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

I'll assume this is your view on rear rotors as well? I'm willing to call my non-Brembo rear rotors a consumable, so am looking for the cheapest way to have back-ups. The Stoptech rear blanks are about 80 bucks. I was hoping AutoZone would have 20 dollar blanks like they did for our old DD!

Axelerate

iTrader: (19)

Yes, especially the rears.

I have gotten my Centric (Stoptech) blanks from Carbotech in the past. Not sure if they still carry them, but their prices were about $20 cheaper per rotor than ordering them direct from Stoptech.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

ST direct is $99. Local shop will sell the ST's for $85, so not too bad, however, I can get the blanks for ~$65, so figured I'd save the 20 bucks and just go with the blanks. Did you have rear ducting also?

laze1

iTrader: (17)

I have successfully used Centic rotors for a couple years now with no problems

(HPDE& TT w/Carbotech XP10 or XP12)

I buy them here: http://www.rockauto.com/ They hav e the best prices I have found.

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

^^^That's the best I have seen too. Thanks!

I am leaning toward "blanks" now.

Is the general consensus that Centric is as good or better than OEM?

Ataru074

iTrader: (19)

I was thinking about using centric premium blanks for the rear and stoptech floating for the front (but I don't know if they make blanks rotors)...
6 lbs less per rotors upfront is still 6lbs