It seems my Brembos aren't up to par for this heat or it might be the pads. I bought Ferado DS2500 pads for semi-street/road course pads as they were advertised. They have been good for a while (except squealing daily driivng every once in a while), but they aren't doing so hot on the track anymore. After about 15 minutes out there yesterday, my brakes are starting to get mushy again. Had new Motul fluid (flushed it with Motives bleeder several times), SS Stoptech lines, and those pads.

Without upgrading the whole system, I am not sure what else to do to solve this. As I am not getting that solid of a feel from the gas pedal as I use too.

Any advice would be great. Car has 17k of miles on it.

 

try upgrading to better rotors maybe? The brembos are pretty awsome set up (factory)
I would also go for a more agressive pad set up for tracking only, as I was running a dual set up for treet and track and quickly realized I needed better pads for prolonged tracking. (VIR and the glen for 15-30 minute runs)
Then a partner of mine had factory set up and runs his mostly on the track and kind of out grew the OEM Brembos and went for the whole stoptech BBK package wich made it run great with no more braking issues.
my two cents. YMMV
Alex

 

does he run a track only pad for the track and a street pad for the street or does he run the same street/track pad all the time?

what pads?

 

Yea I will probably need to get a set of dedicated track pads. Now to decide.

 

I would try a set of track dedicated pads.

Something that really helped me where the brake ducts. I have 6pot Wilwoods on my car and i was still getting fade and after the brake ducts it went away, completely.

Should probably help since you are in TX which must be as hot or ever warmer than PR.

I also bleed my brakes before every event. Hope that helps!

 

What tires are you running?

I used to run our Z with Brembos, and they would fade after a few laps. Definitely need to try a dedicated set of pads for street and track, but the more aggressive you get with the pads you can plan on the rotor being a consumable. At some point, you'll give in a get a front BBK.

 

ds3000. never had issues with the 2500 too... maybe you're staying too much on the brakes to overheat them?
brake ducting could help, of course.

 

in truth, if you have hybrid pads, then sacrifices to both street and track use will be made. Brake pads are easy to change and aren't really that expensive. I would recommend a set of each.

 

my main concern with different sets of pads is bedding them in every time. if you swap them in at the track, you won't really have a chance to bed them in... or is that not an issue with full track pads?

 

bedding should only take about 15-20 minutes and can been done the night before.

 

Marty is right.

edit: some good reads here - http://www.ctbrakes.com/faqs.html

 

It's not overdriving them, it's I am getting much faster and using my brakes a lot more. Combo pads are for beginners, it's time to step up to a dedicated track pad now as I have found the limits of the 2500s.

 

Plus the Brembos set-up is even easier to swap the pads than the non-Brembo calipers. I swap the night before, and if I don't bed in that night, I bed during the parade/intro laps or during the first run group outside of the track.

 

Here's the bedding instructions per carbotech's website. does anyone else find it completely unrealistic to do at a track day? from my (very limited) track experience, this type of driving is unrealistic, and just not safe considering there are a bunch of other cars on the track...

Proper bedding instructions for AX-Series & XP-Series Compounds :

1. All new brake pads require a bedding process, start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.
2. After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.
3. Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes.

 

I find this method to work well and can be done in the pits or on the road outside the track

1 medium stop from 60 to clean the materials
2 stops from 40 to 5
cool
2 stops from 60 to 5
cool
2 stops from 80 to 5
1 easy stop 60 to 5
cool

that should be about it.

 

Why not a set of dedicated track pads/rotors? I know it's a lot more expensive in the Z but I did this in my SE-R to keep the daily driving more compliant and lend a little more life to each setup. If you manage to put it all back together the same way, in theory, you shouldn't have to re-bed the pads at every outing.


I used this:
Street: Brembo Blank Rotors w/ Hawk HP+
Track: Brembo Blank Rotors w/ Hawk Blue's

 

im gonna do XP12/10's for dedicated track pads. Hopefully they'll last for a few events..

 

2 sets of pads and rotors are the best way to do it....


i personally just use the Pathfinder during the week, and squeal notoriously on the sunday mountain runs in my z - lol

btw, xp12/10 here....

 

do they squeal the whole time or only when they're cold?

also, what brakes do you have?

 

they get better when they get hot, but not much, also, you saw that i have NO interior in the back, so i can hear a lot more things now.


ap 6f/4r