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Old 12-13-2007, 04:24 AM
  #61  
Kolia
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Originally Posted by Flee0588
I have a base. Running 1.5way kaaz, i disconnected my abs for reasons you stated (discovered this when i first got it ). Whenever I try to initiate using only the steering wheel I understeer. Brake-feinting i can get usually, as long as i'm going fast enough. I'm mainly talking about tight courses, 2nd gear.
Typing on the web isn't the best way to diagnose a car behavior...

It sounds like your turning the wheels to quickly for the suspension to adjust. In doing so, you're breaking traction and then the car plows. Try turning the steering wheel slower (adjust turn-in point accordingly) so as to give time to the chassis to react and take its set. You have to work WITH your chassis/suspension, not against it.

It will feel like you are moving in slow motion in the car, that's normal when changing your technique. I have a hunch that it'll help. It will at the very least allow you time to get some feed back on the car's behavior. You should feel a build up of torque in the steering wheel as the lateral weight transfer occur.

That might be a little too technical to analyze while driving. Just think of slowing your steering input a bit and see if it helps.
Old 12-13-2007, 06:36 AM
  #62  
scotts300
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Originally Posted by Axelerate
After looking at it closely the front rims BARELY fit! The front tires are close to the outer fender, but I'm only running -1.5 camber. I change it to -3 at the track.
How do you have two settings? Changing camber effects your other settings...
Old 12-13-2007, 06:38 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Flee0588
I have a base. Running 1.5way kaaz, i disconnected my abs for reasons you stated (discovered this when i first got it ). Whenever I try to initiate using only the steering wheel I understeer. Brake-feinting i can get usually, as long as i'm going fast enough. I'm mainly talking about tight courses, 2nd gear.
I run 275s at all four corners with only upgraded sway bars and easily initiate an oversteer situation, especially tight autox courses simply by working the tire pressure.
Old 12-13-2007, 06:52 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
How do you have two settings? Changing camber effects your other settings...

I have SPL front A arms and change it to -3 degrees at the track. My street alignment is set at -1.5 degrees camber and 0 toe. The toe changes are minimal.

I've had it checked at both settings when I got it aligned and the toe change is nothing I can feel while driving the car.
Old 12-13-2007, 10:52 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Axelerate
I have SPL front A arms and change it to -3 degrees at the track. My street alignment is set at -1.5 degrees camber and 0 toe. The toe changes are minimal.

I've had it checked at both settings when I got it aligned and the toe change is nothing I can feel while driving the car.
Out of curiosity, if you had it aligned for street at -1.5 and 0 toe, what does the alignment spec sheet say the toe is when you simply crank the A-arms to net a -3 for the track without resetting the toe?
Old 12-13-2007, 11:13 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
Out of curiosity, if you had it aligned for street at -1.5 and 0 toe, what does the alignment spec sheet say the toe is when you simply crank the A-arms to net a -3 for the track without resetting the toe?

I got the alignment as a favor, so I wasnt picky about getting a sheet. Adjusting the A-arms a half inch equals a half degree of camber. So, I have the street settings marked on my measuring tape and then thread them in a inch and a half, and then back out when I'm done.

When we changed it and put it on the rack it toe'd in slightly, I drove it and it felt fine. I took it back after I ran at the track to see if my street settings were good after adjusting at the track and it was back to normal.
Old 12-13-2007, 12:36 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Axelerate
I got the alignment as a favor, so I wasnt picky about getting a sheet. Adjusting the A-arms a half inch equals a half degree of camber. So, I have the street settings marked on my measuring tape and then thread them in a inch and a half, and then back out when I'm done.

When we changed it and put it on the rack it toe'd in slightly, I drove it and it felt fine. I took it back after I ran at the track to see if my street settings were good after adjusting at the track and it was back to normal.
Ok. I buy what you're saying, but the local race alignment shop refuses to stand behind a dynamic alignment when I talked to them about this same situation. I am dialed for a small amount of toe-in in the rear for high-speed stability. They indicated that if I returned from the track and dialed out the rear camber that it would affect my toe enough, on the street, that it'd wear my tires out within a few thousand miles.
Old 12-13-2007, 12:47 PM
  #68  
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Question: How much clearance do you have between the front tire and the upright/A-arm??

Can you stick your finger between them comfortably?

I want to do the same package on my stock 06 Grand Touring. I know the rears will fit fine, but had concerns about the fronts. As my GT wheels (18x9 30 ET) are pretty close to the upright...about one fingers space. I plan to add Hotchkis springs and sways soon, but that is all the mods planned today.

Last edited by laze1; 12-13-2007 at 12:53 PM.
Old 12-13-2007, 02:05 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by laze1
Question: How much clearance do you have between the front tire and the upright/A-arm??

Can you stick your finger between them comfortably?

I want to do the same package on my stock 06 Grand Touring. I know the rears will fit fine, but had concerns about the fronts. As my GT wheels (18x9 30 ET) are pretty close to the upright...about one fingers space. I plan to add Hotchkis springs and sways soon, but that is all the mods planned today.
Not a whole lot, but the rim is closer to the spindle than the tire is, so I'm not worried about it.

My old 17x9 +27's rubbed with a 275/40 tire and I had to run a 5mm spacer. From the small amount of street driving I have done with the new stuff, everything seems to be fine.
Old 12-13-2007, 02:10 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by scotts300
Ok. I buy what you're saying, but the local race alignment shop refuses to stand behind a dynamic alignment when I talked to them about this same situation. I am dialed for a small amount of toe-in in the rear for high-speed stability. They indicated that if I returned from the track and dialed out the rear camber that it would affect my toe enough, on the street, that it'd wear my tires out within a few thousand miles.

I am much more concerned with the rear toe, and I don't touch it. I have mine set at -1.5 camber and a tiny bit of toe in. It's quite possible that you would in fact wear the tires out fast.

The front however, even with a lot of negative camber and toe does not wear that bad at all. I replace two sets of rear street tires before I have to get new fronts.

I think your safe messing with the front, and running -3 definitely has it's rewards!
Old 12-13-2007, 02:14 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by dnguyent
Axelerate...I know this is OT, but what tow hook are you sporting? I'm getting tired of screwing in my OE tow hooks before each event.

Here's where I got the tow hook from:

http://store.autotecknic.com/altowho.html
Old 12-14-2007, 04:19 PM
  #72  
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That's a sick setup there, Brett!

I'm curious as to what kind of handling difference the wider wheel with similarly sized tire will bring at the track.

I'm trying to do the NASA VIR Feb event as the first event of 2008 ... you going to be there?
Old 12-14-2007, 05:14 PM
  #73  
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there is also a Z club weekend in early Feb as well. Should make it up for that.


also, did I see this car kinda later in the season last year at a NASA event at VIR ???
Old 12-14-2007, 07:20 PM
  #74  
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Yeah, I'll be at the NASA event.

I would love to do both, but they are too close together time wise! I have some friends and family running the NASA event, so I'm kind of obligated.

I was probably at VIR. I try to instruct all the Nasa events I can.
Old 12-16-2007, 05:21 PM
  #75  
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Hoping to see that car around events.





www.intunedonline.com
Old 12-17-2007, 04:03 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by Axelerate
Not a whole lot, but the rim is closer to the spindle than the tire is, so I'm not worried about it.

My old 17x9 +27's rubbed with a 275/40 tire and I had to run a 5mm spacer. From the small amount of street driving I have done with the new stuff, everything seems to be fine.
What brand of tire were you running? I've run hoosiers in the same size with a 17x9 +30 offset and had no rubbing issues.

I'm considering getting the same 17x10 FN setup in either hyperblack or black with polished lip. Since NASA's performance touring category doesn't care about wheel width and only tire width I might as well get the most out of the 275 tire I plan to run.

BTW, the wheels are a few bucks cheaper at SPL. $212/wheel and only $9 to ship all 4 wheels.
Old 12-17-2007, 04:14 PM
  #77  
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They were Hankook Z211's, and they only rubbed at full lock. It wasn't bad, but I didn't want to cut the tire.
Old 12-17-2007, 04:24 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Axelerate
They were Hankook Z211's, and they only rubbed at full lock. It wasn't bad, but I didn't want to cut the tire.
How do you like the Hankooks? I've never tried them.
Old 12-17-2007, 09:14 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by sfarrah
How do you like the Hankooks? I've never tried them.
they were nice, but Hankook stopped making them, so I got them for very cheap.

I'm gonna do some time trials with Nasa this year and I didn't want the extra points since the tires were only a 50 tread wear. Thats why I got the Nittos and the widest rims I could fit.
Old 12-19-2007, 06:32 PM
  #80  
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Please clarify, are you using 5mm spacers in front?


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