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Share your Track alignment setting.

Old 05-11-2013, 06:36 PM
  #21  
03threefiftyz
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Shocks: Moton Doubles
Springs: Depends on surface...Front 900-1100 Rear 750-1000
Sways: Depends on surface/weather...Front: Hotchkis (anywhere from 2nd hole to full stiff) Rear: No Sway bar
Stock front upper arms with offset bushings.
Camber: Front 2.7-3.0 Rear 2.0-2.5....depending on surface and corresponding tire temps.
Toe: 1/8" out up front and 0 out back (toe in out back in the wet).
Caster: 9
Diff: Cusco RS
Tires: Big *** A compound hoosiers
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:00 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by terrasmak View Post
More front camber, front should have more than the rear. Less sway bar, start at full soft and work up as needed to dial out understeer/oversteer.
Gotcha. Thanks a lot, man! Taking the Z to the shop this weekend.
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Old 04-08-2014, 08:19 PM
  #23  
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I'm going to be installing tein s tech springs with some sort of aftermarket shock (likely koni yellows) and picking up rs3s/re11 on stock v2 track wheels, no other suspension mods. This is a weekend car which will see 3-4 track days this summer.

I know that with these springs I'll be able to get an alignment done within factory specs. However, what would be the recommended settings for my use on the track? Should I go as negative camber as I can on the oem arms? (Eg within the oem range, should I go to the most negative end of the range?)
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:46 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by l2iceman View Post
I'm going to be installing tein s tech springs with some sort of aftermarket shock (likely koni yellows) and picking up rs3s/re11 on stock v2 track wheels, no other suspension mods. This is a weekend car which will see 3-4 track days this summer.

I know that with these springs I'll be able to get an alignment done within factory specs. However, what would be the recommended settings for my use on the track? Should I go as negative camber as I can on the oem arms? (Eg within the oem range, should I go to the most negative end of the range?)
Up front camber is your friend, you want as much as you can get -2 to -2.5 is pretty streetable. The rear, upper side of OEM works great -2. Toe, outer edge of toe up front, close to 0, and OEM rear, delight toe in. IMO , this would be a great starting point.
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Old 04-09-2014, 04:08 PM
  #25  
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So for fronts, I'll go to the max negative within OEM specs (which is -1 minimum), or closer to -2 if I can, and close to 0 toe (oem is 0mm to 2mm, so I'll go between 0 and 1mm)

Rears, I'll go with upper side of OEM, so -2, which I believe is minimum according to OEM specs. For rear toe, what does it mean to have delight toe for the rear? for OEM, it ranges from 1.1mm to 2.7mm, with 1.9mm being nominal

Thanks for your help!
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:47 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by l2iceman View Post
So for fronts, I'll go to the max negative within OEM specs (which is -1 minimum), or closer to -2 if I can, and close to 0 toe (oem is 0mm to 2mm, so I'll go between 0 and 1mm)

Rears, I'll go with upper side of OEM, so -2, which I believe is minimum according to OEM specs. For rear toe, what does it mean to have delight toe for the rear? for OEM, it ranges from 1.1mm to 2.7mm, with 1.9mm being nominal

Thanks for your help!
OEM front is about 0.5 to 1.1 and rear is 1.1 to 2.1, unless you have adjustable front arms , you can't change the front.

At minimum, I would match the front camber to the rear. Less front camber, less traction, more understeer. The front OEM specs suck.
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Old 04-10-2014, 04:33 AM
  #27  
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On Dunlop Star Specs, after checking tire temps across the tires and watching tire wear since I drive the same tires on the street as I do at the track I have settled on the following:

Front camber: -2.2
Caster: stock (no adjustment)
Toe: -0.01/side total -0.02 toe out

Rear camber: -1.8
Toe: 0.15-18/side (total toe 0.30-36)
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Old 04-10-2014, 03:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by terrasmak View Post
OEM front is about 0.5 to 1.1 and rear is 1.1 to 2.1, unless you have adjustable front arms , you can't change the front.

At minimum, I would match the front camber to the rear. Less front camber, less traction, more understeer. The front OEM specs suck.
Is that for camber? I got the factory alignment specs from the posting by DavesZ#3 here:
https://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-...ent-specs.html

According to that, front OEM range is -1.33 degrees to 0.17 degrees camber
Rears are -2.08 degrees to -1.08 degrees.

And since the fronts are non-adjustable (oem control arms), I can't do much right now, so i guess I'll just have the rear camber to -2.

for the toe rear, you mentioned "delight toe in", can you clarify? sorry I'm not familiar with these terms
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Old 05-25-2014, 11:54 AM
  #29  
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For you guys running more than -2.0 negative camber in the front, what kind of A-arms do you folks have? Tried to have my car aligned yesterday and they they couldn't do more than -1.27 in the front. Currently running Kinetix 2.0 arms
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Old 05-25-2014, 01:24 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 67ZNISMO View Post
For you guys running more than -2.0 negative camber in the front, what kind of A-arms do you folks have? Tried to have my car aligned yesterday and they they couldn't do more than -1.27 in the front. Currently running Kinetix 2.0 arms
I modified my Kinetix arms to be able to get more negative camber since I am at stock ride height. I was in the same boat as you but now I am currently running -2.2, could probably get one maybe 2 more turns out of them to get near -2.5 (0.18/turn).

To modify them I had a friend machine the threaded tube as far back to the U-shaped portion of the control arm as far as he could so it would give me more room to be able to screw the upper ball joint in to get more negative camber.

If you check out Kinetix webpage they have only designed these arms to give you an additional -0.5 or 1.5 camber. They are designed more for people that have lowered their cars and are trying to add positive camber to get the alignment back to OEM specs for tire wear.

http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetix...er_a-arms.aspx
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Old 06-12-2014, 12:16 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 2000atlanticgt View Post
I modified my Kinetix arms to be able to get more negative camber since I am at stock ride height. I was in the same boat as you but now I am currently running -2.2, could probably get one maybe 2 more turns out of them to get near -2.5 (0.18/turn).

To modify them I had a friend machine the threaded tube as far back to the U-shaped portion of the control arm as far as he could so it would give me more room to be able to screw the upper ball joint in to get more negative camber.

If you check out Kinetix webpage they have only designed these arms to give you an additional -0.5 or 1.5 camber. They are designed more for people that have lowered their cars and are trying to add positive camber to get the alignment back to OEM specs for tire wear.

http://www.kinetixracing.com/kinetix...er_a-arms.aspx
which camber arm would you recommend for people running stock height? Trying to get to -2.5 on stock suspension
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:20 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by RAYoRAY View Post
which camber arm would you recommend for people running stock height? Trying to get to -2.5 on stock suspension
If I ever buy a different set of front camber arms it will be these: https://www.splparts.com/SPLFUAZ33.html
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Old 06-12-2014, 01:38 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 2000atlanticgt View Post
If I ever buy a different set of front camber arms it will be these: https://www.splparts.com/SPLFUAZ33.html
I just took a set of these off of my Z due to classing rules. (SCCA STU = no metal bushings)

I am now running modified Kinetix A-arms. I intend to sell my SPL's once I do a couple of events on the Kinetix. (I want to make sure the "modified" A-arms hold up under track use first)
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Old 06-16-2014, 01:20 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RAYoRAY View Post
which camber arm would you recommend for people running stock height? Trying to get to -2.5 on stock suspension
I got -2.4 out of my modified Kinetix arms on stock suspension
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Old 07-16-2014, 09:16 PM
  #35  
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Re-reading this thread...
Total noob question here.

When all of you say "1/8 toe out" in front..
Are you guys referring to total front toe? or each individual wheel?

Last edited by RAYoRAY; 07-17-2014 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 02-12-2015, 03:12 PM
  #36  
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Exclamation Alignment specs

Hi everyone,
I was wondering if anyone had their alignment specs for an autocross setup. I have been staying on the drag strip for two years and last year i started road courses and autocross. I really need some help in seeing what everyone is running as far as suspension setups. i have fully adjustable coilovers, sway bars, and i have two frame braces. i have all the pieces just need some figures, because as you all know drag setups are way different than autox setups
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Old 02-12-2015, 03:45 PM
  #37  
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For my STU build:

Alignment:
F -2.75 camber, 1/16" toe out
R -2.5 Camber, 1/8" toe in.

This is a compromise (drive to the track) alignment.
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Old 02-12-2015, 03:57 PM
  #38  
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what kind of tire wear are you seeing
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:04 PM
  #39  
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I just went to these specs. After one two-day autocross event, it looks like the edges, (inside and outside) are wearing at a similar rate...but faster than the middle of the tire. I expect the insides to wear a *little* faster than the outsides over the life of the tire.

Since the Hankooks I'm now running require a little more air than other tires in their class, I'm hoping normal driving will wear the inside some and give the edges a little break.
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Old 02-12-2015, 04:12 PM
  #40  
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ventus rs-3 v2?
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