Correct.

 

In the end I bet you end up in the -3.2 area up front....even on street tires.

 

what he said

 

Mike, sounds like you are making toe changes at or before events. Are you doing that at home with something like a string alignment or having a shop adjust it?

Anyone do their own alignments?

Was thinking of setting up a string alignment, but not sure if using axle ends or hub centerlines was accurate enough.

 

I've been doing my own alignments. I use longacre products and a combo of strings and linoleum tiles to make it all level and square.

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...%A2+LW+Adapter

and

http://www.longacreracing.com/produc...Magnets+(pair)

 

-Just had a shop do it. At some point, I hope to leave it alone. I changed the ride height just before the last alignment.

 

I just had my car aligned at a shop who is big into racing mainly with the spec miata and porsche cca guys. After I got the car back I noticed a huge lack of stability at speeds above 70mph and under hard braking. Also when going around long sweeping curves at speed. It feels like every bump is going to spin the car out and it tends to follow every dip in the road. The alingment specs are as follows:
LF RF
CAMBER. -3.08 -3.04
CASTER. 8.43. 8.58
TOE. .04 .04
LR. RR
CAMBER. -2.67. -2.68
TOE. .14 .14

Also I have hotchkis sways at 2 from soft front and med rear with adjustable coilovers and 275x18F 295x18R tires. Is there anything I can do to fix the stability issue other than have the car aligned back to stockish specs??

 

Looks like the front and rear have matching toe. Either both in or both out. From the sound of your issue, I am guessing you have toe out. On the front, it helps the car turn in. On the rear, toe out makes the car tail happy...very tail happy.

 

Thanks for the help Mike. I'm hoping that's the issue. It would be nice to drive the car without it trying to kill me when I change lanes on the interstate...

 

FWIW I run 1/8" toe-in in the back and 1/8" toe-out up front

 

Just an update as to what I found wrong with the suspension of my car. I dropped it off at the shop that did the work and told them what I was experiencing. So after a few back and forth conversations between myself and the shop, they put the car in the air. They found that my right rear SPC camber arm bushing was completely destroyed and had about an inch of play within the bushing housing. with the car in the air you could physically move the wheel about half an inch in either direction. I ordered some SPL camber arms so hopefully that will fix the stability issue. Idk how the **** that bushing was destroyed like it was. Just glad it didn't happen at zdayz.

 

.....and my car has SPC rear arms. Fml


I plan on SPL front camber arms next year. Idk if my bank can afford new rear arms too

 

I'd only had them on for roughly 3-4 years and WAS an advocate of them, but that bushing was def the issue. On a side note I had Kinetix a-arms and they were throwing my alignment off also, so I replaced them with the SPC front arms (before I found out the bushing in the rears had crapped out on me) so we'll see how long those last.....

 

Don't scare me man

 

Settled at -3 Camber in front
1/8 toe out


-2.5 in the rear with 1/8 toe in

 

Digging up an old thread again. Stock 07 Enthusiast. Doing 3-4 track days a year, most on a track that is hard on tires (two long right hand carousels paved with cheese grater). Have been very impressed with my Hankook RS-3s in terms of durability but left side tires are getting destroyed on outside edge, front and rear, but much worse on front.

Assuming I need more negative camber front and rear.

I've been looking at upper camber arms. SPLs look well made but most expensive ones out there other than Stillen. SPL says camber can be changed on car by owner with a shim system. I would love to have easy to change camber since I still drive this car everyday. Can someone explain the shim system. In my mind I'm hoping I could have one shim for track and one for street and be able to change them in and out at home (in the driveway). Is this how it works and are the SPLs really worth twice what the others cost?

 

I had SPL A-arms for years before I prepped for STU. (I miss those things)

The main ball joint assembly is adjustable (toward or away from the "A" part of the arm) with two bolts. The shims take up the space between. They ensure stability and offer a means of repeating the same settings. (As long as you remember which shim combo you want to use for x settings)

 

Going to go back to 1/8 toe out in the front

And 1/8 toe in on the rear


Car pulls without these settings and it drove weird at the track

 

Now at -3.5 front and -3 rear. 1/16" toe out up front and 1/16" toe in for the rear.

Turning radius feels much smaller, grip feels higher too.

 

I only switched for tire life as I got about 4k on my street tires. But meh. Race car