View Poll Results: Are you interested in a weld in roll cage kit other than what's out there already?
Yes
28
77.78%
No
8
22.22%
Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll
Roll Cage Kit
04-07-2010, 07:53 PM
#21
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Is there any interest in a weld in roll cage kit other than what's already out there? I have pictures of the cage I designed but don't want to post them cause I'm not trying to sell them at the moment and I don't want my post deleted cause I'm not a site sponsor, simply gauging market interest.
)
04-07-2010, 08:01 PM
#22
I'm shopping right now for one. Currently have a Kirk Bolt in 4 point, but I'm at the point where I need a cage. Since I genrally have a student in the car I would like to opt for nascar bars on both sides. I also would like to have the dash bar integrated into the cage. ( I have no dash and only half a dash bar now, just enough to hold the steering wheel out of my lap )
).
04-07-2010, 08:28 PM
#23
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It looks like the majority of the interest is in a 4 point roll bar. If there is anyone interested in the 8 point design I already have, send me a pm and I will communicate with you through pm's. FYI The kit that I have designed at the moment is for a full on race car that has been totally gutted so it probably won't work with a car that has interior.
To design a 4 point that will work with interior would require someone willing to leave their car with me for a short period of time get dimensions and bend the prototype. This person would get a discount on the install and the roll bar for the use of their car.
To design a 4 point that will work with interior would require someone willing to leave their car with me for a short period of time get dimensions and bend the prototype. This person would get a discount on the install and the roll bar for the use of their car.
04-08-2010, 06:29 AM
#25
I'm shopping right now for one. Currently have a Kirk Bolt in 4 point, but I'm at the point where I need a cage. Since I genrally have a student in the car I would like to opt for nascar bars on both sides. I also would like to have the dash bar integrated into the cage. ( I have no dash and only half a dash bar now, just enough to hold the steering wheel out of my lap )
)
04-08-2010, 10:20 AM
#29
Sorry, can't be done
You guys realize the main difference between a harness bar that is functional and a 4-point roll bar that is safe, is the main hoop... right?
I'd venture a guess that it would actually be EASIER to build a 4-point roll bar w/ integrated harness bar. Would a harness bar sell better? Probably. Is it the right product to sell? In my opinion, no.
You guys realize the main difference between a harness bar that is functional and a 4-point roll bar that is safe, is the main hoop... right?
I'd venture a guess that it would actually be EASIER to build a 4-point roll bar w/ integrated harness bar. Would a harness bar sell better? Probably. Is it the right product to sell? In my opinion, no.
04-08-2010, 10:53 AM
#30
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Such as, the VDC button, Gas cap release, and OBDII port now reside where the heated seat buttons would be on an equiped car. The multi use amp (White box behind the HVAC controls) now resides behind the ECU. I had to extend the harness for the triple meters to mount them where they now live. I've pulled about 10 to 15 pounds of wire out, and I'm not done yet.
Give me about another week and I'll snap more pics, after a fresh coat of krylon
04-08-2010, 03:29 PM
#32
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Installation time will really vary depending on the person but I would estimate about 20-25 hrs for installation time.
Lightning Guy, have you removed the factory rear shock tower brace? Post some pics of the rear hatch area.
Lightning Guy, have you removed the factory rear shock tower brace? Post some pics of the rear hatch area.
04-08-2010, 05:09 PM
#33
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Car is full of Krylon dust at the moment, as soon as I chock down this beer and lets the cloud settle I'll snap a pick, it is not that exiciting, but you asked for it.
Tonight's project, battery shutoof switch and relocate the Braile.
04-08-2010, 05:14 PM
#34
04-09-2010, 06:43 AM
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Looks like you can still remove some weight by removing all of the unnecessary sheet metal in the rear of the car. I'll post some pics of what we removed when I get our car back from the paint shop.
04-09-2010, 06:46 AM
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Sure, I'm still doing some house keeping on the wiring. I basically started unplugging things about two years ago, and kept driving the car. NOw that the stuff has been out for so lng and it still works, I started rewiring the chasis harness to clean it up and also relocate things where I WANTED them.
Such as, the VDC button, Gas cap release, and OBDII port now reside where the heated seat buttons would be on an equiped car. The multi use amp (White box behind the HVAC controls) now resides behind the ECU. I had to extend the harness for the triple meters to mount them where they now live. I've pulled about 10 to 15 pounds of wire out, and I'm not done yet.
Give me about another week and I'll snap more pics, after a fresh coat of krylon
Such as, the VDC button, Gas cap release, and OBDII port now reside where the heated seat buttons would be on an equiped car. The multi use amp (White box behind the HVAC controls) now resides behind the ECU. I had to extend the harness for the triple meters to mount them where they now live. I've pulled about 10 to 15 pounds of wire out, and I'm not done yet.
Give me about another week and I'll snap more pics, after a fresh coat of krylon
04-09-2010, 07:09 AM
#38
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There is more that I could strip out, just not worth the risk at this point. I also got tired of all of the idiot lights in the dash, so I grounded out the ones I could (airbag and seat belt) but the TPS, and brake (couldn't find the wire) I just pulled the clutster apart and put black tape of the LEDs.
