-3.5 is pretty drastic. I don't remember seeing your fronts that cambered at mid-ohio. I'm willing to bet it was 3.5 total nissan tech was talking about.

 

I remember the tech at the dealer told me total - I understood it as total camber not including the factory setting. Looking at all you talk it looks like my interpretation was wrong. I'd have to read some more to understand what total camber means. But I guess I am lost on each side part.

To answer you questions
- My car does not understeer
- Tire temps were taken immediately after returning from a lap, the 20 degree spread was on fronts only. I did not check the rears

I've done some reading and from what I have gathered too much negative camber will cause problems while breaking because of reduced contact patch.

 

So I guess my camber is 2.2 like I noted last year. I might have been confused by what the tech at the dealer told me

 

Here are some shots I took of the front tires

 

That looks like -3.5 per side alright....but you have plenty of room to go before you have any clearance issues. I am very confused on why your tech thought -3.5 was necessary to clear your fender.

 

- The camber arm was installed by a local service shop last year.
- The alignment was performed by a dealer and that's when the tech gave me those numbers.

anyhoo ... I have an alignment appt scheduled at a local performance shop. I am going to install an SPL rear camber kit on the car and then see if I can bump down the camber on the front.

There was another member with a Nismo (Ataru074) and he was running similar configuration of wheels and camber arm. However, his car was lowered so I am not sure if that's the reason why he didn't have to add as much camber as I did to clear the fenders.

I need suggestions on what I should be doing to the rear. So that we can try that out while we do the alignment. Stuff about Camber and Toe on the rear.

 

That camber is drastic! I don't remember it like that!

If you're taking your car to a true performace alignment shop they will ask you not only what you want it set at but they can recommend settings as well. They should also ask you how much you weigh to put the weight in the drivers seat.

Your camber settings are completely up to you and your preferences. Good luck!

 

Haha, I remember this from the NASA HPDE classroom session. The instructor kept saying this

Agreed, it varies by car, driver, tires, suspension and ton of other stuff. But considering that my car is stock in terms of suspension except for the A-Arms in front I figured a general direction would be nice. I can then feel it out, discuss with performance shop and then change.

The shop that I am going to specializes in Porsches. It's always good to know what others with similar cars are running to take it as a baseline and go from there.

 

Too much my friend for street tires and street driving....

 

Ordered the following

SPL SPLRLLZ33 Rear Camber Links (v2) Nissan 350Z (Z33)
SPC Rear Toe/Caster Adjustment Bolt Kit - 07-08 Nissan 350z

 

I am running about 2.8 neg camber/side and get a tight temp spread on the track.

However, my 1500+ mile ZdayZ trip resulted in some inside tire wear. Not enough to make me change the settings though. My car sees more tire wear "on course" than on the street.

 

I don't have any problem of clearance and considering how much my car is lowered I added only 1.2 per side of camber... it clears and I still have room to fit 275 up front (tight fit though)

now I'm running -3.4 per side front and -2.2 per side rear on nitto NT-01.
I didn't need rear camber arms to reach that, but I'm lowered and the issue I have is in the opposite direction... I can't put less than -2.2.

 

A lot of the discussion in this thread is that the 3.6 total camber I am running is very high for street tires.

Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't matter if your car is lowered OR if you have negative camber using A-arms the total camber on the same type of car (in this case a Nismo) would be the same to clear A particular type of wheel (Enkei RPF-1 17x9.5 +18)?

I remember you ran Kumho's last year so you should have had more than needed camber for the tires back then. How did the car feel then?

 

if you never hit the track... yes, it's a lot of camber and these are my front after few track events ( I run also a quite generous open toe) and 5000 miles on the street:



and the rear


being lowered change the amount of necessary camber to clear the fenders because with the double wishbone design you gain some camber as the suspension compress / shorten the travel...

http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

and I have room to fit 275s ( I tried to put the rear up front to check for rubbing later )

the feel on the street was still great but I never push hard on the street...
for only street use -2.5 per side for spirited driving and 0 toe to keep the tires alive for longer time would be ok.

this is the clearance turning.. http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

 

Wheel needs to clear the Brembos. Tires need to clear the fender. The wheel clears the fender as is.

 

You are right, I might have used the terms Wheel and Tire interchangeably in some of my posts which is wrong

 

Nice choices. In for new camber pics

 

Looking at your pics, and knowing what i run on my car, you could easily run -1.7 front. For a street driven car (dual purpose) i wouldnt go over -2.2 up front. I actually run closer to -1.5 street and bump it up to -1.8 to -2 at the track.

 

After all the discussion I am led to believe that -1.5 is all I need to avoid rubbing. I have been busy and have not been able to adjust the camber. Heck, I just got done working on some work related stuff and its freaking 2:16 AM

Hopefully, during the week. I still didn't get my rear camber pieces. Will keep you guys posted

 

For what it's worth, I've been running -3.2 up front and -2.5 rear for a year now (SPL v2s up front, stock rear adjustment). It's an STR autocross car, and has seen about 6K miles of street with this setup. There's a good bit of inside shoulder wear on the tires, but nothing terrible.

As for too much camber--it depends on what you're talking about. Too much for 20k mi on a commuter car? Yeah. Too much for performance driving use? No way. I get very even wear and tire temps (10-15 degree spread last I checked) aside from the street use. The car turns in great and rotates progressively and controllably. It's the single best change I've made to the car aside from good shocks and springs.

That said, it's a serious handful in the wet over about 60 mph (heavy springs and low-depth Kumho XSs contribute a lot to that) and I don't regularly drive the car over 100 mph or so, so I can't speak to very high-speed track use or inclement conditions on track.

I'd skip all the opinions on what's "too much" for your application and use good fundamentals in setup: driving feel, tire temps, tread wear, and, if you have access, a good data logger to measure actual g loads and lap times. Those will tell you whether more or less camber (or most any other adjustment) is good or bad.