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Oil Cooler Suggestions

Old Aug 26, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by betamotorsports
FYI... Setrab has dimensions and application information here: http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/ProLine-Dims-Apps.pdf
Thank you checked the link ... Greek and Latin to me

From the little I grabbed there, the following should be the associated part number from table in Page 2. Basing this on my engine's HP output ~306 ?
915M22I differential/gearbox/small high performance vehicle EOC 220-310 4.5/5.2 27,000-39,000 15,000-25,000 <0.55
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 12:07 PM
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- What do the number of fittings on an oil cooler indicate? Which one should I get?<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
I think mine is similar to a small 19 row, and it seems to be sufficent to cool the engine (haven't pushed it too hard yet). As for the fittings you want to make sure the fittings are a good size. Too big and your lose oil pressure, too little and it will raise the pressure along with bottlenecking the flow. I like the way an AN -10 works, and think as little as -8 (the Stillen kit) will be ok. However, -12 might be too big. If you have the cash, take it to a dealer and ask them to install a Nismo kit. But it will be close to $1000 installed (twice what I think is reasonable for parts and labor) but it is a well sorted kit with great fit and finish.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Zazz93
I think mine is similar to a small 19 row, and it seems to be sufficent to cool the engine (haven't pushed it too hard yet). As for the fittings you want to make sure the fittings are a good size. Too big and your lose oil pressure, too little and it will raise the pressure along with bottlenecking the flow. I like the way an AN -10 works, and think as little as -8 (the Stillen kit) will be ok. However, -12 might be too big. If you have the cash, take it to a dealer and ask them to install a Nismo kit. But it will be close to $1000 installed (twice what I think is reasonable for parts and labor) but it is a well sorted kit with great fit and finish.
Since the 350Z doesn't have a oil temp guage I do not know how hot it is getting at the track. One thing I know for sure I push a LOT harder than I did last year.

As posted in original post I am looking for both oil cooler and guages to check the oil temp. I am debating between 19 and 25 row. Regarding the fittings a middle 10 would be good then?

Zazz93 Do you track your car?

I am guessing the labor will be about 2-3 hrs? So that should be about $250 @80-85. Why spend the extra 2-300 at the dealer?
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Doh! I just spoke with RacerPartsWholesale and it was an idiotic conversation on my part. I am on my way out, will post the details a little later.

To be brief - I am clueless
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 01:54 PM
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Zazz93 Do you track your car?
I track my car when I can, but it hasn't seen track time since last winter (gotta love Cali weather).

I am guessing the labor will be about 2-3 hrs? So that should be about $250 @80-85. Why spend the extra 2-300 at the dealer?
Honestly, I believe a good price installed should be closer to $400-$500 with labor, considering someone who has done the job before will have an idea where to drill the supports and everything from there, is a bolt up job. I built mine for $300 with a Mocal plate (which was close to half the cost of everything) and it took about 1.5 hours. Note I don't have a gauge, this was more of a "security blanket" deal for me.

RacersParts is where I got the Mocal and some of the fittings from.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mekatoka
Doh! I just spoke with RacerPartsWholesale and it was an idiotic conversation on my part. I am on my way out, will post the details a little later.

To be brief - I am clueless
Ok, so I called them and they were like what is this oil cooler for? What else would you like it to do? .... I have no clue except to say that I track the car and want to make sure that oil temps are not too high. Then, the guy was like we speak with people from different backgrounds with varied amount of track usage so it might be better to find out from the shop you are getting this installed with as to what you need.

It made sense, because he was asking stuff like what is the amount of clearance you have, what shape of brackets (??) you need? Length of lines etc. So, if someone can give me these details it would be helpful.

Unfortunately we do not have Z expert shops here. We do have a few Porsche and Lotus shop that's about it. So for most of them it is more of a research deal. I figure it would be better to find out what fellow Z members are using and go with it.

I have also emailed Z1motorsports to see if they have a kit for 350Z like they do for a 370. That way you just buy the kit and call it a day.

I am open if someone can clearly tell me what are all the pieces I need.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 03:59 PM
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Try this:

http://www.kohlercreated.com/blog/?p=3173

You will probably want a slightly larger core though.
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Old Aug 26, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Try this:

http://www.kohlercreated.com/blog/?p=3173

You will probably want a slightly larger core though.
Thanks for the link and PM.
I replied to it, please take some time and reply
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:36 AM
  #29  
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You can't go to a generic store and say "I need a custom oil cooler setup for my car. No I don't know how long of lines I need, what size will fit, where I will put it, etc etc".


If you reeeeeeally don't want to just jack your car up, remove your bumper, and actually measure things out, then go online to setrab/earl's site and see what dimensions will fit, I suggest just taking your car to a shop, and say "build me an oil cooler", and come back a week later to pick up you car. Or, you could take this opportunity to learn a lot about your car.


Not trying to be rude, but its not rocket science.


edit: or buy one of the many pre-made kits but Stillen, HKS, ARC, etc.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Maybe this will help.

Here is a list of what will typically be needed to add an oil cooler:

(1) oil cooler (i.e. Setrab, Earl's etc)
(2) stainless steel braided hose or high pressure rubber hose ( I prefer SS braided hose)
(3) oil sandwhich plate ( to connect the lines from the cooler)
(4) AN fittings (needed to connect all lines; AN -8 or -10) total of 4 needed
(5) assorted zip ties & clamps to protect the lines from damage
(6) brackets to mount oil cooler - stock metal can be used & modified as needed

If this still is not sufficient add a fan to the cooler.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by GT-Rob
Not trying to be rude, but its not rocket science.


edit: or buy one of the many pre-made kits but Stillen, HKS, ARC, etc.
Its mechanical engineering and chemistry. Buy a kit as suggested above.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:44 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by GT-Rob
....Not trying to be rude, but its not rocket science.
It is if you can't figure out things by looking at some of the links on these sites. Like betamotorsports mentioned it's mechanics and like I mentioned I am not very good with it. I am slowly learning but it will take time.

03threefiftyz took the time to explain me a few questions I had. Thanks a lot for that
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:47 AM
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Default My conversation with 03threefiftyz

For anyone who is interested and have the same basic questions I had, this should help

Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Originally Posted by mekatoka
Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
Originally Posted by mekatoka
Originally Posted by 03threefiftyz
What is it exactly that you want to know about oil coolers? I'd be happy to talk you through it. If you follow the link I put in your thread.....all of the pieces there will get you a low cost functional set-up. I would, however, get a larger core than the one listed there.
Thanks Mike. I am confused as hell. I'll lay it out for ya.

1. For Oil Cooler I want to go with 25 row. Why? I am just going based on the THIS page where they suggest to use 25-row for track usage

So I'll look at purchasing a cooler from THIS page.

The question on here is which one to buy ...8, 10, 12 fitting one? And what do these fittings imply?

2. I understand I will need a Sandwich Plate. So I'll pick one from HERE.

Again, here which one to buy? The link you provided on the thread to custom cooler install said they used 20mm. What is this based on? Oil Filter threading?

3. Adapter Fittings - The product page also talks about buying proper fitting and they recommend BSP fittings. However, the link you provided uses a NSP fitting.

I am assuming the fitting size needs to match the parallel ports size on the plate which is 1/2". And, the fitting here needs to match the one on the core. So If I bought a 25 row 10 fitting CORE, I will need a 10 BSP fitting?

If that is the case, I need to get THIS product, correct?

4. Hose -- the link talks about rubber hose. Can I buy something more sturdy? Or is rubber the best? If it is, I'll go ahead and pick up the item suggested there

5. 90 degree -10an socketless fitting Not sure if I should get the same as the link mentions. If yes I'll get THOSE

PS: I am not really worried too much about price and am not trying to keep it absolute low. At the same time I am not up for going all out and spending big bucks.
The 8, 10, and 12 -an are simply a form of measurement. The higher the number the larger the diameter of the hose. This is the debate amongst the group..........which size is best. I know people who use the -8, and have no issue. The theory is that the -8 will maintain better pressure at the expense of ultimate flow. The -10 is probably the best bet for your application. It will flow a larger volume and maintain a healthy pressure throughout. The -12 is not for us....at least in my opinion. Perhaps the higher whp turbo builds (or extreme, high compression N/A builds), but I can't justify it for an N/A build. In summary....I'd go with -10an.

1. The 13x7 1/2 core should be sufficient. I plan to use 13x10 myself when I finally do mine.

2. For a sandwich plate I would get the mocal that is in the DIY I linked in your thread. The sandwich plate is used is the diameter of the oil filter inlet (where it meets up with the motor). It is a necessity for us folks living in cooler climates.

3. Correct.

4. You can always buy braided stainless lines....such as what is used in some builds for gas lines. You can also use (blue) aeroquip hose, which I know a few have used. It can hold temperatures well into the 400's.

5. The socket-less -10an fittings just keep you from having to cinch the the hose with small hose clamps or zip ties. I would still recommend using a small hose clamp for to make sure it doesn't fail. Losing an oil fitting on track at 6000rpm would result in a disaster.

I think you are getting the hang of it. Just be sure to really gauge out the increase in oil volume. I'd imagine that it is going to add about a qt of extra oil.

I may have missed a few things or misread....it's late, and I'm about to hit the sack. I'll review this again in the morning, but hopefully this helps you out. Let me know if I can help out any further.

Thanks for taking the time to reply. I appreciate it
I'll go ahead and order those parts then. I definitely want to go with SS lines for the hose. The hose used by Jeffie states that it is good up to 300F. After the oil cooler install the oil should never go past 300 but I don't mind paying a bit more and getting braided lines.

I'll send you a final list for approval sometime next week and you can sign off on it
I'm personally going to use stainless lines (they are lined internally with Teflon usually)....I just like having the extra safety margin. Sorry for the typo....I meant to type 300........ It was uber late when i replied. Still....I think you have a good handle on it now. What shops are near you? If you can find a competent shop that turns out race cars.....they would be your best bet.

Last edited by mekatoka; Aug 27, 2010 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by xzotklr
Maybe this will help.

Here is a list of what will typically be needed to add an oil cooler:

(1) oil cooler (i.e. Setrab, Earl's etc)
(2) stainless steel braided hose or high pressure rubber hose ( I prefer SS braided hose)
(3) oil sandwhich plate ( to connect the lines from the cooler)
(4) AN fittings (needed to connect all lines; AN -8 or -10) total of 4 needed
(5) assorted zip ties & clamps to protect the lines from damage
(6) brackets to mount oil cooler - stock metal can be used & modified as needed

If this still is not sufficient add a fan to the cooler.
Good post, thanks.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 09:55 AM
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I should mention on the quote above that the socketless -an fitting I was mentioning in answer 5.....is a barbed end...
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 10:37 AM
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Best DIY posts, they're for the 370Z but the same concepts, parts, and dimensions apply. Google "Modshack oil cooler". It is the model I used including 10AN and Socketless hose. Your best bet though is finding a good shop that can spec and install what need. FYI - I was reaching 280-290F pre-oil cooler. I use a Cobb Accessport to monitor oil temp via the OEM temp sensor. It nice to monitor and log other parameters as well.

Last edited by NismoZ_840; Aug 27, 2010 at 10:54 AM.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mekatoka
Thanks for the link and PM.
I replied to it, please take some time and reply
That is my blog he linked to. If you have any questions you can feel free to ask here or PM. My cooler is a little on the smaller side, however my motor is mostly stock and this cooler seems to do the job just fine for my track days. If it begins to not be sufficient, upgrading is pretty easy.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by nkohler
That is my blog he linked to. If you have any questions you can feel free to ask here or PM. My cooler is a little on the smaller side, however my motor is mostly stock and this cooler seems to do the job just fine for my track days. If it begins to not be sufficient, upgrading is pretty easy.
Cool, now your blog will be even more popular
I will send a PM if I have questions, but I think it's mostly sorted out.

There is a local Z member who did a 25 row oil cooler (Z1 Kit) recently on his 370 and he sees low temps in regular driving in Michigan temps. He suggested I go with a 210F sandwich plate. The RacerParts site only seems to have 180F, so I am looking around for other choices.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:46 PM
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https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...r-install.html

Do that or buy all the parts i listed and take it to a shop.
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Old Aug 27, 2010 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffie7
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...r-install.html

Do that or buy all the parts i listed and take it to a shop.
Thanks for the link. I think I am gonna buy all the parts and try to install it with help from local Z members.
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